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Old 10-23-2017, 12:24 PM   #21
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Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
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I have always traveled with the table down in my current fiberglass TT and old non-fiberglass TT I had years ago. The axle on my 1979 Boler B1300 needs replacing but my cushions stay on the bed. Everything else on the bed mostly comes off if I hit a rough patch of road.
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:14 PM   #22
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Stuff flying all over the place!

In my opinion, the table should always be in the stowed (bed) position for travel. The wall attachment hardware is not that robust.



What do you mean by "take the bed down and put it directly on the floor"? If you mean the table that bridges the benches, the lower wire support should remain in the wall bracket with a clip to keep it from jumping out (see my first post #2). With that in place it cannot slide forward or jump out of the notches in the benches.



I am assuming your Boler table has similar hardware to my Scamp- most I've seen do. If yours is different than the picture I posted, perhaps you could show us what you have.
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Old 10-23-2017, 02:14 PM   #23
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Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
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Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
...I do not understand the need for speed with a travel trailer. A time to relax!!

bob
Everyone's travel style and travel circumstances are different. I only travel during summer vacation. It's usually 95 or 100 degrees here in summer, with nighttime lows 75-80 degrees. I want to hurry to higher elevations for the first night of camping so it's reasonably cool for sleeping, and it literally takes all day (a long day at that) to get that far. So I have a strong incentive to drive 65-70 mph on the first day out and the last day coming back.

I have plenty of horses under the hood, the trailer has brakes, and the trailer tows straight and easily. As long as the highway is good, I see no reason to slow down. I'll relax as soon as I reach someplace relaxing!

Different strokes for different folks.
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Old 10-24-2017, 08:36 AM   #24
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Name: John
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I think Byron is on to something. As soon as I learned the intricacies of pulling a camper things stayed put better. Another big factor is the roadway. Tire pressure can also have impact as well as how much wieght you've added to your camper. Lastly and maybe too obvious is check how your items are stowed. After a close call I added a strap to my microwave!
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:58 PM   #25
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Name: Riki
Trailer: 1976 Boler
British Columbia
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thanks

Thanks for all the responses. We've put in the plastic retainer clips and the table seemed to stay in place on our short trip around the block. The storage tips were also very helpful.
Thanks again
Rebecca
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:26 PM   #26
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Name: Dale
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Colorado
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Someone may have already mentioned this and I missed it, but have you had someone in another vehicle accompany you on a 4-lane where they can follow along and observe both sides of the camper as you are going down the road at normal posted speed? It seems any jarring significant enough to dislodge that much stuff would be observable from the outside as you're moving. I've followed other vehicles where it simply looked like a wheel severely out of balance was making that corner of their vehicle bounce like crazy. Not sure how they put up with it. Have you had your tires checked for ply separation and wheels balanced? Again, sorry if you've already addressed that and I missed it.
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai in Seattle View Post

at times every one of our six wheels was on a different plane and at a different angle.
Kathleen/Kai
I took a motorcycle trip up that beautiful coast road a few years ago. A couple of those turns were so sharp I saw my own tail light!

Seriously though, I agree that the OP probably needs a new axle, but it's not only speed that is the problem. We have been slowly working out how to keep all the cupboards closed and the cushions stable in the dinette. We go where the roads are rough and rocky. Dirt roads out on BLM land, etc. Tooling along at 5 MPH can still be too much in those cases, as we work our way along.
It's disappointing to open the door and see chaos.
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:58 PM   #28
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New York
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I have found the worst areas of the highways for causing the trailer to bounce is on and off bridges. Always an uneven transition at each end. I've heard it is due to if the bridge is repaved with the rest of the road it can alter the load capacity of the bridge.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:12 AM   #29
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[QUOTE=Raspy;670264]I took a motorcycle trip up that beautiful coast road a few years ago. A couple of those turns were so sharp I saw my own tail light!


Beauty isn't always kind!


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Old 11-03-2017, 06:16 PM   #30
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Bungee cords for all cabinets, zip-ties for curtain rods and "banana cushion" keeps everything from flying off bed. The "banana cushion" in the Scamp (with bunk beds) is the long, narrow, curved on one side, cushion for the lower bunk. I place it across the expanse of the bed and it keeps everything that I've stored on top of the bed from flying. I store 3 folding chairs, a couple boxes of things, and bedding on the beds. Sorry, I don't have a photo.

We did have an incident of severe shaking when we went over a paved but poorly maintained road in Washington state resulting in our cutlery drawer coming apart and our fiberglass cooler door breaking! This was a total bummer! We marked the map so we NEVER will take that road again.
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:39 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
I have found the worst areas of the highways for causing the trailer to bounce is on and off bridges. Always an uneven transition at each end. I've heard it is due to if the bridge is repaved with the rest of the road it can alter the load capacity of the bridge.
Whoa, if you are having trouble sleeping, Bob, I could explain some of the reasons for that!

Actually, there is (fortunately!) a short version. Bridges tend to have very deep, solid foundations. However, the roadway approaches are generally just sort of lying on the surface, so to speak. So, the approaches tend to settle, or get moved about during freeze-thaw cycles, while the bridges basically stay put. This often results in a rough transition from road to structure.

If you look at an aerial photo you can generally see how bad the transition is as there is a generally an elongated dark stain where the oil is shaken off the bottom of vehicles... You can also see this pattern in other locations on freeways where there are rough transitions...

And, yeah, the weight capacities of bridges are limited, so repaving generally means removing and starting fresh. But, it's usually the grade changes at the ends that make for the real kuh-whump factor.

Pretty interesting stuff, huh? zzz...

Hey, I could go on like this forever!
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:02 PM   #32
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I feel your pain!

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Old 11-09-2017, 06:53 AM   #33
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Trailer: Boler
Ontario
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Hi all,

We went on a four week trailer trip with our 1974 Boler trailer that we got in April. Everytime we travelled with it, all of our stuff would be all over the trailer. Cushions, curtains, etc. We are towing it with a 2003 Subaru impreza outback.

Is this normal? Do the bearings need to be re-packed? Any others suggestions?

Thank you!!

Rebecca
We lived the same pain for the last 2 seasons with our 1980 Boler 1300. Finally three months ago I contacted Paul Neumeister (find him on this forum). With a new axle purchased from him and installed by myself, we now have a trailer that tows like its not even there and everything stays where we left it, with in reason.

Sure wish I had done the repair years ago.

Greg
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:13 AM   #34
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
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condition

what sort of condition was your old frame in?

bob
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:01 AM   #35
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Oil stains on the highway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
...

If you look at an aerial photo you can generally see how bad the transition is as there is a generally an elongated dark stain where the oil is shaken off the bottom of vehicles... You can also see this pattern in other locations on freeways where there are rough transitions...
...
It is amazing what you can tell about the roads looking from space! I always look for those oil stains and anticipate the thump in real time, not from Google maps. Sometimes I have time to slow down a bit, sometimes not. The same for potholes, or rough patches, which I try to straddle. Keeping a distance from any vehicle ahead helps.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:30 AM   #36
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Name: RogerDat
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If trailer has brakes you want to get off them before tires actually roll over bump, or I should say you want the tire to be rolling over the bump, not dragged over it with the brake on.

Recent trip out west I had pretty good luck with the shelves in the closet using expanding fridge hold back rods. Overhead cupboards stuff is in small bins and they tend to bounce but stay inside the cupboard.
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:03 PM   #37
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Name: Greg
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what sort of condition was your old frame in?

bob
Funny you ask. Three years ago we took the coach off the frame and spent a day welding closed 3 major cracks. Right where they are normally found.
We did some reinforcing of the frame and added some steel to allow a full bolt down of the coach instead of the all the screws in the frame Boler had used.
It would have been easier to do the axle change at that time but I did not realize how bad our axle was then.
It was our first trip after trailer was all back together that we experience our first real cabin trashing after a few bumps. Did the lower tire air pressure thing for another season and minded the bumps but this year enough was enough and we got our new axle.
Now all is good.
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Old 11-10-2017, 09:47 AM   #38
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If trailer has brakes you want to get off them before tires actually roll over bump, or I should say you want the tire to be rolling over the bump, not dragged over it with the brake on.
...
Very true! Sometimes the road bumps are accompanied by distinct tire scuff marks where the brakes were still applied while bouncing.
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