Supporting wastewater outlet on Parkliner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-09-2016, 07:45 AM   #1
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Supporting wastewater outlet on Parkliner

Could a few Parkliner owners take a pic of how their wastewater tank outlet is supported and post it here? I have a brand new tank to install (direct from the Parkliner factory), and my only concern is how to support the outlet.

My old tank had a crack where the outlet met the tank proper. I removed the tank, cleaned it out, dried it, then went at fixing the crack. Much to my surprise, my fix did not work.

What I don't know is if the way the outlet is supported contributed to the crack. It is held to the body with a holed steel strap, with about 3/4" or 1" distance from the outlet to the body. Seems to me that would contribute to a potential crack, but I really have no clue.

I hope to install the tank this weekend, but really could use some pics of how the outlet is attached on other Parkliners. Any help here greatly appreciated!

Frank
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Old 06-09-2016, 09:48 AM   #2
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It is risky to make a suggestion without seeing the actual situation, but I would suggest expanding polyurethane foam as something that would fill the 1" gap, bond to virtually anything, be essentially waterproof, and retain some flexibility. (Great Stuff or similar).
Bill in NC, building Promaster Van camper
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Old 06-09-2016, 09:56 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbullivant View Post
It is risky to make a suggestion without seeing the actual situation, but I would suggest expanding polyurethane foam as something that would fill the 1" gap, bond to virtually anything, be essentially waterproof, and retain some flexibility. (Great Stuff or similar).
Bill in NC, building Promaster Van camper
I can't "do" photoshop here at work, so will do a pic when I get home.

Thanks.

Frank
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Old 06-10-2016, 05:46 AM   #4
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Here's what I mean by clearance...



http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscspdiu72.jpg

What do you Parkliner owners think? Is this like yours?

I could really use some help here folks. Thanks!

Frank
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Old 06-10-2016, 06:09 AM   #5
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My sense is that so long as the tank and the piping are anchored to the same structure (i.e. the bottom of the trailer) and everything is vibrating in sync, you shouldn't get a crack from that anchoring method.

That loop of strapping material doesn't look long enough to allow the end of the plumbing to flex much at all which is good. I guessing that to the left, the plumbing goes to the tank via one or two elbows.

Perhaps another strap between the gate valve and the tank would sync up the plumbing to the left. In case that piping is flopping about a little bit.

This just a thought. Your call.
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Old 06-10-2016, 06:42 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Steve L. View Post
My sense is that so long as the tank and the piping are anchored to the same structure (i.e. the bottom of the trailer) and everything is vibrating in sync, you shouldn't get a crack from that anchoring method.

That loop of strapping material doesn't look long enough to allow the end of the plumbing to flex much at all. I guessing that to the left, the plumbing goes to the tank via one or two elbows.

Perhaps another strap between the gate valve and the tank would sync up the plumbing to the left. In case that piping is flopping about a little bit.

This just a thought. Your call.
I sure wish one or more of the Parkliner owners would pipe in here Steve. Gee!

The tank is screwed tight to the plywood bottom of the trailer, plus has 3 of those holed straps holding it in line with the trailer's length. I have no clue as to whether that means the outlet is not gonna move. For what I paid for this tank (and shipping!), I sure would like to hear from Parkliner or Parkliner owners. Apparently no one else has had this happen. I want to get it right.

Any Parkliner owners out there? Yoo hoo!

Frank
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:27 PM   #7
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Remember the tank and the drain have to move in the same plain. Your fitting is strapped to the floor or frame. The tank is strapped to the floor or frame. Now when you fill the tank where is the added weight of the contents moving the tank? The tank is not stiff enough to contain the weight in place so it must move in some direction. If the tank saggs down or bulges in a different direction than your piping support moves, your going to to have long term fatigue issues where the piping meets the tank. Ridgidly mounting the tank and ridgidly mounting your plumbing to me would be a good Idea but a flexable coupling between the tank and its plumbing would seem very important. Just something to think about. You want any failure on the cheap plumbing not on the expensive tank.

I had positive hope you repair would have held up. What a bummer.
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Old 06-11-2016, 05:32 AM   #8
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I had positive hope you repair would have held up. What a bummer.
I agree!

The crack in the old tank was where the integral outlet met the tank proper. It is my belief it cracked in a minor accident the trailer experienced before we bought it, but did not know about. It is further my belief that we have fixed everything that resulted from this accident. I do believe when I get the new tank in, and it is supported like every other Parkliner, my problems with this minor leak will go away. There's a reason I'm the only owner with this problem - it was the result of this accident the previous owners had with the trailer. Whatever they did, it ruined the right side tire, wheel and hub, messed up the front jack, and knocked the microwave off inside. Buyer beware! (We weren't.)

I almost got the old tank out last night. The last screw (of course, and in a difficult place!) stripped the head. I will go at it a bit later today.

Now my question is how does one install new inlets on the top of these tanks. Mine looked like they had flanges where they met the tank. I'll know better later today.

We're off camping for a 5 day weekend around the July 4th holiday, so time is of the essence!

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 06-11-2016, 08:59 AM   #9
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Went at that darn stripped out screw head again this morning. Even though it was in a very difficult place to get, medium sized vice grips caught the head and turned it out. Tank is out. Now when it stops raining, I will drag it out from under the car port, drain whatever is in there, take some pics and look for new inlets, and whatever I need for the outlet.

Frank
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Old 06-11-2016, 09:24 AM   #10
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So right now, this is what I hope to find locally. I'm on hold (and have been a good part of the morning!):

2 inch Flush Slip Fitting RV Holding Tank Black Water | eBay
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Old 06-11-2016, 01:30 PM   #11
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So the tank is out, and I'm in luck on the outlet part. They had to use a short piece of 3" pipe to connect the outlet/valve stuff to the tank:



I cut it off right at the tank fitting and have enough still to glue the outlet/valve stuff to the new tank:



Off to Lowe's to see if I can find something that i can use for 1-1/2" inlets and some PVC to ABS cement.

Frank
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Old 06-19-2016, 08:44 PM   #12
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Hi Frank, don't check in here often, if you tell me what you need a picture of I can do it tomorrow.....
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:44 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Pat in Michigan View Post
Hi Frank, don't check in here often, if you tell me what you need a picture of I can do it tomorrow.....
Thanks Pat! I just need to figure out how tight the outlet it is to the body.

Frank
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:33 PM   #14
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Hi Frank, don't check in here often, if you tell me what you need a picture of I can do it tomorrow.....
Frank, I think mine looks like yours...
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