switching to 12volt? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-25-2012, 07:47 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Are there any wires attached to the battery going into the trailer?
Can you post a photo of your lights?
Yes, a red wire and black wire. I will work on some pictures.
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Old 05-25-2012, 07:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Gene Masse View Post
I'm not sure you are looking in the correct place. I have a Dometic fridge and to turn on the 12 volt you have to access the control panel on the outside of the camper directly adjacent to the fridge. There is a panel that looks like a vent that should open. You should have a choice between gas, AC or 12 volt.
We have an ice box, so we don't have what you are talking about.
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:40 AM   #17
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Here are the wires that come out of the battery. The previous owner had added wires for a 7 pin to add brakes. He never added them. I'm guessing some, if not all of the wires here that are capped off are for brakes.

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Old 05-25-2012, 10:46 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tina in AZ View Post
Thank you Carol. I forgot to look at the manuals. I'm guessing the 80s design its close to the '98 model.
LOL if its anything like a Scamp there is little to no difference

You may also get more responses from other Burro owners if you where to change your subject title to include Burro.

You might want to purchase a voltage meter & trace the wires to checking to see which lines have power and which dont. A good starting point would be the wire going from the battery to the converter.

As suggested it could be your converter isnt working correctly or there is a switch on it you need to change or the wiring into it is not correct or an inline fuse that you may not be able to see - mine has very small glass fuses that are on the wire coming from the battery in small holders - one is wrapped in tape so its not visible unless you know it was there and the other is hidden in a hatch behind some wall covering ....but I dont know what the Burro's wiring set up is... good luck!

Edit: Just saw your photos - I would unwrap them and then trace to see where the ones that are capped go - back to the tow are back to the trailer -The red wire thats capped is very much needed by the trailer for battery power. On mine the blue wire is the one thats attached to the trailer brakes.
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:19 PM   #19
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Well, I disconnected all the power sources, and started unwinding the electrical tape.

The red and black wires went to nothing! I don't yet see where the black and red wires were cut from. From in side the trailer I can find the black wire, but cannot find where it exits to the outside of the trailer. It seems to cross over to the other side of the trailer without exiting with the other wires. I cannot even find the red wire end. Hmm...I had better keep investigating.

Thanks for all the tips. Once I get this figured out, I am expecting to see a reason for these wires being disconnected
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Old 05-25-2012, 03:23 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Tina in AZ View Post
The red and black wires went to nothing!:
LOL that would do it! Can never figure out why if something doesnt work people tend to just pull the item out or cut the wires off..... .

Once you get the wires sorted out and it still does not work, if I had to guess as to why I would put my money on Per's suggestion.... the converter.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:21 PM   #21
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Have the same original Newmark converter/electrical service. Have had no trouble with the AC breakers OR the DC fuse blocks. Our trailer is on shore power all the time and have no problems with disappearing electrolyte. HOWEVER, I would listen to Per about the lack of sophistication of the converter and the the possibility that many of them are kaputsky or soon to be. I too am interested in Per's switchover to the "piggyback" converter just in case . . . ?


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Old 05-25-2012, 06:07 PM   #22
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Tina, somewhere between the distribution panel and the battery is an open connection. If you're not plugged into shore power, it should automatically be on battery power. I have a automotive 12volt electrical probe device, looks like a sharpened screw driver that can pierce through wiring and light up if there is power, in your situation I would start near the battery positive wire and work back until it doesn't light up, and that would be near the area of the open connection.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Per Walthinsen View Post
Tina:
Three pictures. First, the original panel front. Second, the grafted-on new converter in the back. Third, the replacement 12v fuse block.

If and when you delve into these things contact me by PM and I can send you a more detailed description and pictures by regular email.
Per, I'd also be very interested in any pictures or descriptions of all the work you've done to the electrical. I've already swapped out the glass fuses for a standard automotive ATC fuse block. So you've bolted on a new power supply to the distribution panel, and left the surrounding enclosure off? I'm interested in the specifics of the electrical hookups after you deleted the existing big ole transformer in there.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:55 PM   #24
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So my latest problem is identifying that wires need to go to the battery. Since the black and Red wires went to nothing and fell off when I untapped everything.

So I cannot figure out what wires needs to be connected to the battery. These are the color of wires I have and where I have tried to trace where they go:

Red- Left tail light
Yellow- converter box
Green- all exterior lights(tail lights and amber running lights)
White- grounding wire, exterior, and interior lights
Brown/beige- right tail light? I have not seen it there, but it looks like it might head over that way
Black- converter, interior lights, but this wire does not exit the trailer in the front, I thought this needed to go to the battery...
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Old 05-25-2012, 10:47 PM   #25
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Tina:
The tail lights, stop lights, exterior marker lights are not connected to the trailer battery but are extensions of the lights in your tow vehicle.

As has been pointed out in a different thread, there is a potential for serious safety problems with incorrect or poor wiring. It took me a long time to get to the point where I felt comfortable with electrical wiring, but after 50+ years of working with it some things have become intuitive to the point that I feel a certain confidence doing these things. My point is that it may be the better part of valor to get help from someone who has plenty of experience in this.

When working with trailer wiring on a used (or new) trailer I would NOT rely on color coding, as a rule. Rather rely on a multimeter or some similar device which can tell you about polarity, continuity, voltage, etc.

As Byron K. points out, use wire that is meant for automotive use. A trailer moves and shakes, and the resulting friction and rubbing demands strong insulation and good anchoring. Proper fusing, even if you have to resort to in-line fusing, is your greatest protection against disasters.

About the Newmark: the picture shows what you find when you take the case apart. Most of that stuff goes, so if my memory serves, the grafted on new converter ends up using greatly simplified wiring. I cannot give you a schematic, but someone familiar with trailer wiring should find it a piece of cake.

No offense meant, but for your safety I would recommend getting an "electrically experienced" person to help you.

Another recommendation: my preference is for soldered wiring connections, not just crimped ones or wire nuts (that vibration thing again) followed by plastic electrical tape and heat shrink tubing. I have spent a few minutes in our Burro on a terrible gravel road and the jostling was incredible.

Thomas: Unfortunately I cannot give you the specifics of the wiring done many moons ago, but in the picture you see of the new unit mounted I left most of the rear enclosure off. The new unit fits easily into the box, so when you look at it with the panels back in place you may not notice anything has changed.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:01 PM   #26
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Sorry, I left the picture off.
Attached Thumbnails
Newmark converter guts.jpg  
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:37 AM   #27
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If your convertor has a transfer switch inside the contacts could be just dirty , if you have a switch that looks like this inside . They say you should use a business card as sandpaper you do not want to file the contacts off just clean them. put the paper between the contacts, push them closed and pull the card out . Do both sides of the contact . If you have a electronic charger this info will not help.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:21 AM   #28
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Thanks Per and Ken.

I believe it is time to call my family member that is an electrician. But he is out of state so it's still not going to be too simple.

I had originally thought I was just looking for the other end of cut wires. This has turned into a much more complex situation.

....due to my frugalness I do not have a smart phone. This would be a great situation to have an iPhone to skype and show him the trailer wiring. hmmmm....I guess I can haul my laptop around..
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