Tarp or cover for long term open RV park - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-08-2015, 06:23 AM   #1
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Name: Jennifer
Trailer: Randy Bishop's 1978 Trillium 4500
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Tarp or cover for long term open RV park

Hi,
The RV park I am looking to move to, in the Mojave desert, has water, electric but is otherwise bare bones with no cover.

What would you recommend I use as a cover for my anticipated refurbished 1978 Trillium 4500 from Randy? He is out of town for another week and I look forward for some advice.

The rv park is open, and the Mojave reaches 120 in the summer and the cooler at night, depending on the season. I'm worried about schorching the trailer in the sun and heat.

When I looked at the live view from mapquest of the park everyone was just in the open with no cover.

Found this thread--> RV covers for Boler, Trillium, Scamp, U-Haul and Lil-Bigfoot
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:44 AM   #2
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2-3 coats of wax spring and fall is about the best thing you can do for the trailer. Dust and wind limit the use of just about any type of temporary awning or cover I can think of.

As to triple-digit temperatures... Is there a higher altitude location you could move to during the hottest months? Small fiberglass trailers are not really designed for extremes of heat and cold. The jalousie windows in a Trillium won't accept an AC unit or swamp cooler.
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:50 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
2-3 coats of wax spring and fall is about the best thing you can do for the trailer. Dust and wind is going to limit the use of just about any type of temporary awning or cover I can think of.

As to triple-digit temperatures... Is there a higher altitude location you could move to during the hottest months? Small fiberglass trailers are not really designed for extremes of heat and cold. The jalousie windows in a Trillium won't accept an AC unit or swamp cooler.
My location will be fixed, due to work. However I was considering a stand up ac, similar to how my oil radiator is stand up also. They do not have great reviews at all but, triple digits have me wanting to get one and also to try and block the sun from baking the RV. Portable Air Conditioner Reviews - Consumer Reports News

Jen
edit to say, I'm glad you replied Jon, in AZ I knew you'd have good info
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:48 AM   #4
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Honestly, I'm a bit dubious about living in a small fiberglass trailer through a Mojave Desert summer, but I will never say never. Did some crazy things myself when I was younger, and survived.

Hopefully you will move to the area during the cooler months. You can settle in and learn from others how to adapt to the climate. I do think you might want to investigate swamp (evaporative) coolers. I had never heard of them until I moved to AZ. My first 3 years here I lived in a (larger) travel trailer with a rooftop swamp cooler. It worked well except during our "monsoon" season when the relative humidity was too high. A side-draft evaporative cooler parked outside your trailer on a stand and ducted somehow into the trailer might be your best bet.

Shade is tricky. I've driven through the area in summer, and 25+ mph winds are normal. That means you can't leave any kind of fabric awning up when you're away from the trailer. It also means dirt and sand will get under a cover and turn it into sandpaper on your fiberglass. Unless the park rules will let you erect (and securely anchor!) a metal carport structure, I really can't think of any other way.

EDIT- pieces of Reflectix (foil bubble wrap) in the windows on the sunny sides (especially east and west) will help with heat gain. Care in how you orient the trailer helps, too.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Honestly, I'm a bit dubious about living in a small fiberglass trailer through a Mojave Desert summer, but I will never say never. Did some crazy things myself when I was younger, and survived.

Hopefully you will move to the area during the cooler months. You can settle in and learn from others how to adapt to the climate. I do think you might want to investigate swamp (evaporative) coolers. I had never heard of them until I moved to AZ, and when I lived in a (larger) RV for 3 years, I used a swamp cooler. A side-draft evaporative cooler parked outside your trailer on a stand and ducted somehow into the trailer might be your best bet.

Shade is tricky. I've driven through the area in summer, and 25+ mph winds are normal. That means you can't leave any kind of fabric awning up when you're away from the trailer. It also means dirt and sand will get under a cover and turn it into sandpaper on your fiberglass. Unless the park rules will let you erect (and securely anchor!) a metal carport structure, I really can't think of any other way.

EDIT- pieces of Reflectix (foil bubble wrap) in the windows on the sunny sides (especially east and west) will help with heat gain. Care in how you orient the trailer helps, too.
I will look into a swamp cooler. Thankfully I will be moving in the winter, (in less than ten weeks.) However, I hear by April they reach 100 F. Reflectix sounds like it is a must too.

Although, I am not sure how an evaporative cooler would work in the dry desert? Swamp it makes sense though.
Thank you,
Jen
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:22 AM   #6
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Dry heat, ought to work very well. I first met swamp/evaporative coolers when I was in west texas, love 'em, in the right place. Always keep an eye open for mold, though, at least I had to in a house.

Mon
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:22 AM   #7
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An evaporative cooler works by blowing dry air from outside through water-soaked pads and into the interior. It only works when the relative humidity is low, and requires keeping a window open so many square inches (depending on the size of the unit). It needs a continuous water supply. My trailer had a fitting on the supply hook-up with a small-diameter water line on the outside of the trailer running to the cooler. It uses much less electricity than AC.

Google "evaporative cooler" for more information. You'll want a side-draft type rather than a down-draft, since the Trillium's roof won't support the weight. Out here, you can walk into any big box store and buy one. They're not expensive.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:37 AM   #8
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The trillium escape hatch window will easily accept most window type air conditioners without much alteration. I would use a air conditioner that balances half in and half out rather than one that sticks mostly out as you won't need as much of support shelf to hold it.A couple of angled flag brackets and wooden dowels with rubber booties on the end will support it easily.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:53 AM   #9
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I just returned from living 50 miles from Carlsbad N. M. For 5 months. It also gets a 100 plus there. I have a 13 Ft burro. No shade in the Guadelupes either. I had a 5000 btu ac that did nothing during the day. I up-graded to a 8000 btu. At least that made it tolerable inside during the day. At night the temps outside dropped low enough to not need a c. Most times I was at work during the day anyway. I also had put 2 coats of wax on the burro. The at times 35 to 50 mph winds did not allow me to use an awning or any cover. I also had it bucked down with chains to 4 concrete pads. There were still frightening times that I puckered tight. Good luck. Joe
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:29 AM   #10
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I live full time in a Casita right in the middle of the Mohave. I have been here three years. Forget a cover....too much wind. A/C is a joke in this dry weather. 8000 BTU just won't cut it on 110 degree days. I could post a picture but I put the swamp cooler on a tower made of cinder blocks so it blows right into the side window. Simple. On the hottest days it is comfortable in five minutes while my neighbors need hours for their big RVs to cool down using A/C. The swamp cooler makes too much noise for me at night as does A/C but fortunately, it is rare in the Mohave to need A/C at night. I open the door, all the windows and just use a fan if need be and if it is terribly hot during the monsoon I have a portable cot and I sleep outside. If you want a shade just set up a tarp outside but be sure to take it down. The wind can really be fierce and everything gets ripped down. You can use those sun shade cloths that allow wind through or the military camo netting to shade the entrance. Overall, probably the best place in the US to live in an RV.
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Old 11-08-2015, 02:51 PM   #11
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Go Underground

Take a lesson from the desert animals...go underground. Find some BLM land close by to where you work and dig a slit trench wide enough to back your trailer into. Cover with a nice big camo tarp held down with bowling ball sized rocks or poles with 4 or 5 inches of dirt thrown on top of the poles. Or maybe find a cave or abandoned mine to back into. You want northern exposure for your entrance if possible. You have now saved the expense of living in an RV park but must now erase your truck tracks from your hideout area.
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:02 PM   #12
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Name: Jennifer
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Hi all,

Glad to read the replies.

Not sure about evaporative heat going through wet towels because I think the towels would dry up and how would it work if I am not home to get it wet.

Good to know it cools down at night, relief, if I wasn't bringing my new rescue cat I wouldn't need a/c in the day.

I actually think there were 'dugouts' in the ground when I looked online and swear now that there was camo netting spread out at intervals. I thought maybe it was something else but, it was close enough to the RV campgrounds that maybe that was the case? I don't know but, will find out by calling the grounds attendant again.

Thank you,
Jen
edit because I forgot to mention that I'm not sure if Randy's Trillium has an AC or not already?!
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:31 PM   #13
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An evaporative cooler has a water reservoir with a float valve (like your toilet), so as long as it's connected to a water supply it will not run dry. I think you could leave it running on a low setting while you're at work. You'd have to leave a window (or perhaps a vent) open.
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:34 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
An evaporative cooler has a water reservoir with a float valve (like your toilet), so as long as it's connected to a water supply it will not run dry. I think you could leave it running on a low setting while you're at work. You'd have to leave a window (or perhaps a vent) open.

Ah! Thank you
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