The Perris Project - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-04-2011, 09:50 AM   #1
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Name: Scott
Trailer: 1982 Perris Pacer
Posts: 9
The Perris Project

Here we go.
Behold another empty shell.
As you can see just about everything will need to be done. Curtains, pads, walls, floor, ceiling.

My first question:
There are these gaps in the bottom of the windows where water comes in. Am I just missing a peice of trim that snaps in there? Or do I need to re-do the window gaskets?

Here is the next thing to fix first. The "strike plate" fiberglass has been chewed away. I assume the fiberglass beavers got to it.
There is nothing for the latch to hold onto, the door had to be tied up with rope to get it home.
My first thought is to saw away some of it and put in a metal bracket in it's place. I don't see fiberglass repair being strong enough and I don't have any donor material to put in there...thoughts??
Also, is that black rubber-ish weather stripping correct?

I read somewhere on this site that hinges have a number 1 and 2 stamped on them. Are these mismatched or is this correct? Door works fine so far, (except for the strike plate on the door frame as mentioned above.)

Thanks in advance!

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Old 08-04-2011, 02:45 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1977 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 252
Sweet project! Exciting!

The window gaskets have srunk with age. you can order new seal and lock strip from just about any RV shop. Or you can order it from Scamptrailers, as I believe its nearly the same shell. You can use Black RTV for a quick seal fix, just try not to get it on the shell much. It can be nasty to remove later.

For the strike plate, I think your in the right direction. Maybe glass it up nice, and bend or have made a really long plate. And both it above and below the repair area. The door latch is a real weakness on this style trailer.

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Old 09-26-2011, 09:17 AM   #3
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Name: Scott
Trailer: 1982 Perris Pacer
Posts: 9
So we took the Perris Hilton out for our first camp trip.

We bought foam rubber from Jo Annes, and cut to fit for the cushions. The electric carving knoife was awesome for that job. then we temporarly covered the foam in sheets till we can take them to an upholsterer.

I got the stove quickly working but there is a leak to address. I am going to replace the whole stove unit anyway and run new copper. (There is currently like three unions along the way, of course it is leaking.)

Found a new spare at Discount Tire.

The new window lock-strip did not arrive in time for the trip so I squirted a bunch of silicone around just to get through the trip. worked OK. (and yes, I paid the price by having to remove it, I knew what I was getting into to)

The strip arrived this week and I went to work yesterday!

The windows had pretty much popped themselves out on their own over the years, so they came right out pretty easy.

The front window took like 3 hours because I had no idea what I was doing. After my girlfriend and I wrestled with it to no avail I finally came in and searched up the furums. KevinH61's video on youtube was exactly what I needed.
Boler trailer Window Installation Part ONE - YouTube

Then it only took 45 minutes for each window, much easier!

I had been trying to put the gasket on backwards, in other words I was slipping the part that goes on the shell onto the window. The bigger groove is for the acrylic and the thinner slit slips over the fiberglass. I had cut the gasket after stretching it along the fiberglass backwards. So when I put it on correctly there was a gap now of an inch. Darnit! There was only enough material for two windows, so I started over for the front window, and cut the gasket proper. and it went in easily.

Finished front:

The rear window sans the old gasket and acrylic.

The gasket/lock-strip going around the shell first.

Start the window by seating the left/right edges first. The acrylic flexes more this direction. then start prying the gasket edges up over the acrylic.

I tried all kinds of tools and knifes. The best was really this Craftsman screwdriver. Start at one corner and just start going around, 1/4 inch at a time. Don't get ahead of yourself and try to pop in large sections, it will just frustrate you. stick with small bites. Top edge, top corners first, then bottom corners and bottom edge last.

Luckily the original tinted acrylic was still in good shape, so I was able to reuse it!

Since I was using my firstl, mis-cut peice on the rear I was left with a gap along the bottom. I cut it back to about three inches. I installed then a three inch peice in the gap. I figured I would try this out and hope for no leaks. If I have to buy more material, oh well, I would of had to anyway. Maybe This will seal for a few seasons!?

Now I am buying the lock-strip tool and will finish off the job!

All in all this is a great DIY project. The lock-strip from Scamp is inexpensive and works great. As long as you're patient and follow the advice from Kevin it goes in pretty easy.
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