The subtle mysteries of the Boler Door hinge - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-22-2011, 11:38 AM   #1
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Name: Sara
Trailer: 1972 Boler American
Montana
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The subtle mysteries of the Boler Door hinge

As with so many others, we have been struggling to resolve the dreaded sagging door issue on our 72 Boler American. We ordered up the bolt, ball and spring components, hoping it would be a relatively simple fix (I'm sure that the Universe snickered at that point) but quickly realized that the holes in the door that the hinges are bolted through have worn and enlarged. We removed the door, filled the holes, sanded, repainted, re-tapped holes in the hinges for slightly larger bolts as there was NO WAY on earth that two of those old bolts were coming out and confidently held the door in place to mark it for the new bolt holes.

With the door held in place, the question became "How much do you tighten the bolt" which, of course, results in compressing the spring. Tighten that baby down all the way and the spring has no, well...spring and functions about like another washer. Leave it relatively loose and the door just sags to the left as it has been doing. Are the springs supposed to work like little shock absorbers?

A call to the nice and extremely helpful Mr. Neumeister, which in the past and for other issues has cleared things right up, this time has left us still mystified. Perhaps the hinges themselves are too worn. A quick look at the hinges on a friend's Boler (different year) showed theirs being without washers at all so do we even have things put back together in the right order.

Meanwhile, as all this goes on, our little Boley sits in the driveway with NO DOOR which is making me crazy.

Has anyone else found themselves in this predicament? Any insight at all would be deeply appreciated.

Optimistically,
Sara in Montana
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Old 08-22-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sara maccalman View Post
As with so many others, we have been struggling to resolve the dreaded sagging door issue on our 72 Boler American. We ordered up the bolt, ball and spring components, hoping it would be a relatively simple fix (I'm sure that the Universe snickered at that point) but quickly realized that the holes in the door that the hinges are bolted through have worn and enlarged. We removed the door, filled the holes, sanded, repainted, re-tapped holes in the hinges for slightly larger bolts as there was NO WAY on earth that two of those old bolts were coming out and confidently held the door in place to mark it for the new bolt holes.

With the door held in place, the question became "How much do you tighten the bolt" which, of course, results in compressing the spring. Tighten that baby down all the way and the spring has no, well...spring and functions about like another washer. Leave it relatively loose and the door just sags to the left as it has been doing. Are the springs supposed to work like little shock absorbers?

A call to the nice and extremely helpful Mr. Neumeister, which in the past and for other issues has cleared things right up, this time has left us still mystified. Perhaps the hinges themselves are too worn. A quick look at the hinges on a friend's Boler (different year) showed theirs being without washers at all so do we even have things put back together in the right order.

Meanwhile, as all this goes on, our little Boley sits in the driveway with NO DOOR which is making me crazy.

Has anyone else found themselves in this predicament? Any insight at all would be deeply appreciated.

Optimistically,
Sara in Montana
Sara, I replaced my hinges (not just the parts) with new ones from Scamp. I was surprised how much "spring" there is to them, so maybe you have yours too tight.

When I got my Boler, my door was on with wide gate-type hinges---awful mess with several sets of holes from past attempts, whatever. I re-glassed everything, drilled new holes and put light-weight aluminum inside, behind the bolts. Guy from Scamp said the try to put the new hinges so that they're on the flattest part of the door (I also looked at lots of photos.) It works great!!!
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Old 08-22-2011, 12:30 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input. We are coming to the conclusion that new hinges may be the answer. Urggghhh!
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Old 08-23-2011, 12:07 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1972 Boler American
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I think I uploaded the pic right this time hopefully.....


Take a look at this pic (link below) should I have this much play in the brass ball bushings?
Q: wouldn't the door just sag if I put the door on with the hinges in this condition?
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2011-08-23 ball bushing play.jpg  
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Old 08-23-2011, 12:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sara maccalman View Post
As with so many others, we have been struggling to resolve the dreaded sagging door issue on our 72 Boler American. We ordered up the bolt, ball and spring components, hoping it would be a relatively simple fix (I'm sure that the Universe snickered at that point) but quickly realized that the holes in the door that the hinges are bolted through have worn and enlarged. We removed the door, filled the holes, sanded, repainted, re-tapped holes in the hinges for slightly larger bolts as there was NO WAY on earth that two of those old bolts were coming out and confidently held the door in place to mark it for the new bolt holes.

With the door held in place, the question became "How much do you tighten the bolt" which, of course, results in compressing the spring. Tighten that baby down all the way and the spring has no, well...spring and functions about like another washer. Leave it relatively loose and the door just sags to the left as it has been doing. Are the springs supposed to work like little shock absorbers?

A call to the nice and extremely helpful Mr. Neumeister, which in the past and for other issues has cleared things right up, this time has left us still mystified. Perhaps the hinges themselves are too worn. A quick look at the hinges on a friend's Boler (different year) showed theirs being without washers at all so do we even have things put back together in the right order.

Meanwhile, as all this goes on, our little Boley sits in the driveway with NO DOOR which is making me crazy.

Has anyone else found themselves in this predicament? Any insight at all would be deeply appreciated.

Optimistically,
Sara in Montana
The veritcal bolt in a Scamp hinge is 1/4", If the hole is wallowed out you might consider drilling them out for 5/16" bolts icluding the brass "ball". you must then find an appropriate spring at your local hardware store.
I have done this with good success using stainless replacement bolts.
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Old 08-23-2011, 02:58 PM   #6
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I haven't replaced mine yet but when I do it will be the Scamp hinges, they have three holes where they mount to the body and that is the problem with my Boler A's hinges, they are fine at the door and weak at the body.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:18 PM   #7
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We used the Scamp hinges. We filled in all the holes and stared over with all new holes and shims on the body to somewhat level the hinges.
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:44 AM   #8
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Lizbeth, looks like the Scamp hinge arm is quite a bit longer than the original Boler hinge. That should help to prevent the door from binding against the belly band. Is this true?
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Old 08-24-2011, 11:41 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Lizbeth, looks like the Scamp hinge arm is quite a bit longer than the original Boler hinge. That should help to prevent the door from binding against the belly band. Is this true?
Just an interjection here, as you weren't talking to me and I'm certainly not an authority, but I do have the "new" hinges on my Boler now. I didn't ever have the old ones to compare, but yes, my door surprised me at how well it clears the belly band.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:25 PM   #10
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Donna, the old hinges were in such bad shape they barely held the door on. They had toilet bolts dropped through them with no nuts on them. My door clears the band just fine when I am opening it, it can be opened all the way back against the trailer where it does touch the band. The shims leveled the hinges on the body somewhat.

I wish Scamp provided stainless steel bolts and springs, the ones that came with mine rusted fairly fast but are still working fine.
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:03 PM   #11
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Can anyone post a pic of the hinge with the shim in? I think that may be all mine needs as it's only sagging a little. If only I could find those brass bead things (inside the hinges) in an oblong shape.
T
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:36 AM   #12
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Tim, the shims we used we not in the hinge, they are under the hinge to level the body curve a bit.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:21 AM   #13
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Hi, Tim

There was an inquiry here in April this year from a Boler Restorer who was contemplating replacing the original Boler hinges with the Kason used on Trilliums. He didn't receive any replies to his inquiry, so outcome unknown...
You may find his idea worth considering, though.

Here's a pic of the Kason hinge and a link to a site where you can buy it.


Kason 139-03 Series Hinge 3/4" Offset

The hinge is reversible and comes in various offsets ranging from 5/8" to 1-1/8", so you'd need to measure for that and here's how:
(From the site given above)
"Measuring Offsets - The offset of a hinge is the distance between the surface on which you mount the hinge to (the jamb) and the surface on which you mount the hinge to (the door)."



Good luck!

Francesca
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Old 08-29-2011, 04:29 PM   #14
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Hi, Tim

Well I got a P. M. from Behind-the-Scenes Brian B-P about the hinges, and perhaps you did, too.
If not, I'll post it here for the perusal of anyone interested in this subject:
Here goes:

".The actual offset for our trailers is zero - the door is flush with the body. The Kason 139 does come in zero offset (flush).
Converting to this type of hinge would be major work, since the mounting locations on both the door and the body would need to be built up in a wedge shape to position the hinge pins vertical and in line with each other - trailers designed for these hinges are molded that way, but our Bolers are not. Also, for the door to clear the belly area, the hinge pins would need to be well forward of the door edge, so that the door would swing outward as it opens... and it still wouldn't open much past 90 degrees before hitting.

It's an interesting idea, but not straightforward.

Brian
"
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