Tie down bolts and frame - old Trillium - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-02-2015, 05:17 PM   #1
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Name: Randy J.
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
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Tie down bolts and frame - old Trillium

This probably isn't new - except to me. While doing some sprucing up of the cargo holds on the old Trill I noticed one of the tie-down bolt heads and square metal "washer", nearest the freshwater tank drain, looked severely rusted. A little pry with my screwdriver and the head popped right off! This is the only one I've seen to be rusted but I'll apply some torque to the rest, just to be sure and replace this one and probably oversize the steel plate/washer. The floor around the area seems solid. I had already added an extension to the drain spigot.

Questions for Trillium owners:

Has anyone had similar experience?
Think I should just replace the rest of the tie-downs?
Are there any torque specs?
The floor seems solid, as does the frame. I nonetheless have the frame treated by Crown every few years. And it doesn't seem that these fail, at least on old Trilliums. Anyone heard anything different?


Randy
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:01 PM   #2
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Name: Dave W
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Randy, The bolts are a week point on Trilliums. You don't say if yours is a 1300, or 4500. On the 1300, there are six bolts. On a 4500, there are eight.

I would replace them all.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:21 AM   #3
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Name: Randy J.
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Tie down bolts

Good advice! Mine's a 1300 - six bolts. Curiously they put four in the back, two on each side but only two in the front.

Any idea of the specs? I'm thinking of using stainless, if I can find it, and of course lock washers. And probably a hex head rather than the carriage bolt. Carriage is lower profile but the steel plate was just round-drilled - no idea how they got the bolt to hold still while they torqued the nut. This way I can just drill the new plate.

Randy
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:20 AM   #4
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Name: Larry H
Trailer: Trillium
Arizona
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Bolts

Hello,

Ran into a similar problem when I bought
my '78 Trill...

Trillium Body Mounting Bolts

Take Care,
Larry H
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy J. View Post
Good advice! Mine's a 1300 - six bolts. Curiously they put four in the back, two on each side but only two in the front.

Any idea of the specs? I'm thinking of using stainless, if I can find it, and of course lock washers. And probably a hex head rather than the carriage bolt. Carriage is lower profile but the steel plate was just round-drilled - no idea how they got the bolt to hold still while they torqued the nut. This way I can just drill the new plate.

Randy
When I had my trailer fixed up, I had them put the bolts in upside down. That way the nuts and threads are inside the trailer. The porta-potty still fits over the nuts in the porta-potty garage, under the gaucho.

Torquing the nuts is easy, if you use an impact wrench.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:45 AM   #6
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My Trillium 1300 had corroded bolts so bad that you could lift the body off the frame at the corners. Not one bolt survived removal.I used stainless bolts, nuts and washers for replacements with great confidence. You really don't need a torque wrench, just compress the lock washer until it is flat. You can use threadlocker if you have it or you could spray the exposed threads with undercoat or paint as a touch of added security.
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:23 PM   #7
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Name: Duane
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To prevent rusting of any bolt & nut use a setting seal wax ring for toilets and smear it on. It is bee's wax. You will be glad you did when it's time to remove any bolts later on.
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:57 PM   #8
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Name: bob
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UHauls typically have rust issues with the body bolts. They are 1/4" elevator bolts and rust away where they pass through the floor so the problem can't be seen until they are removed
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Old 09-03-2015, 03:14 PM   #9
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Name: Randy J.
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Tie down bolts

Well, thanks for all the advice. The tie-downs I discover require three things to keep the trailer secure - the bolt, the metal plate or washer, and a sound plywood floor in between. So another point of concern is how sound the the 40 year old plywood might be under that fiberglass. It seems solid but having replaced the rotten window frames I'm leery. I'll at least give it a screw test. And even so, I'm thinking of adding an extra thickness of plywood, then putting the bolts through everything.
If I wanted to have someone else do this, would the RV place be where to go or is there somewhere that deals specifically with trailers?

Randy
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Old 09-03-2015, 04:23 PM   #10
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Randy, I am not sure what you mean about the plywood under the fibreglass. Where the bolts go through should be exposed wood, but with some resin painted on it.
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:32 PM   #11
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Well yes, I suppose that it is just resin on the topside of the plywood - a very thick layer of resin which we hope has kept the wood dry and sound all these years.
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:34 PM   #12
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Come to think of it though, the fact that it is just a coat of resin and seems sound probably tells me the wood it coats is okay. Right?
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:58 PM   #13
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That would be my guess.
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:50 PM   #14
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
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Here are your trailer bolts, same like mine. Just cut them off, replace with new one. Even the new bolts are regular steel, you will have a peace of mind in the next...20 years..
Boler 13' frame removal in progress
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