Time for yet another new battery. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-04-2016, 11:16 AM   #15
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Name: Patrick
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I do have a Harbor Freight multimeter that I got free with a coupon but have never used it or read the instructions...guess it is time to learn.
My travel trailer was built in 2001 and I won't feel confident until I get the converter checked...question ?....is there a simple way to check/test the converter with a multimeter? Or should I seek professional help ?

Once I know the converter is working then I'll buy another battery.
My choices are AGM or standard lead acid wet cell type...Question is
what type is best bang for the buck???
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:28 AM   #16
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More than a year ago I set a "Sale Alert" for an AGM battery at Canadian Tire, where all sorts of things regularly go on sale 50% off. It has never gone on sale.

I think you have much more selection and will pay much less for a lead-acid battery. Just need to find out why you have a draw and take care of the new battery once you've identified and fixed the problem.
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Old 03-04-2016, 11:57 AM   #17
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Glenn, Under normal circumstances I might agree with a lead/acid battery but my circumstances are similar to another "battery" topic post currently active on this board. Like the other poster my battery is "indoors". His was moved there by the previous owner...mine was located by the manufacturer in a vented compartment with its own small exterior door leading inside the body of the trailer. Because of that location I did not want another vented battery.
The difference in cost between a good deep cycle liquid lead acid battery and an AGM of equal output is $100 vs $225.... Or about $125 more for the AGM...not much for the piece of mind of a vent free sealed battery that reports indicate will out last the liquid venting lead acid type.
Being stuck down here in the lower 48 the best source for just about anything seems to be Amazon. They stock RV parts and AGM batteries at the best prices.
One stop shopping for campers. They have a fantastic inventory of everything!
Don't know if they ship to your part of the world. If it wasn't so darn cold up there I might consider moving to your beautiful location .....does British Columbia welcome U.S. retired citizens as permanent residents? My wife's father was Canadian born.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:09 PM   #18
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I hear there is a lot of interest in Cape Breton by Americans.

Amazon.ca pretty much doubles the price of Amazon.com
I've bought one cheap item from Amazon.com and had it shipped to a US postal box.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:21 PM   #19
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I think that you will find that the freebie Harbor Freight meters will measure voltage and resistance but will not measure current flow (like
you might want to use to check for a phantom-load/current-draw within
the trailer).


I believe that any meter that will actually measure DC current draw
does so by placing the meter inline between the battery and the trailer
and utilizing a "shunt" resistor that will place a very small load (current
draw) on the circuit under test. Getting someone with a more expensive
meter to do a one time check for phantom loads might be cheaper?


During longer term storage just disconnecting the battery terminals
from the trailer and possibly periodically using a desulphator-type
battery charger (Battery Minder, etc.) might be the simplest answer.


Of course, YMMV.

Good luck!

Ray
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:35 PM   #20
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AGM Battery

Just getting back from from a six week trip. Camped for 8 days straight using a 40 watt solar panel. Battery was aways at good rating on my meter and never fell below a 12.4 volts on my meter. Wasn't using the solar panel at that point. Bought a group 31 100 amp.
AGM s charge four times faster than lead acid so it is giving a better charge when towing for 5 hours.
I also see Oliver is using AGM and a lot of other higher end manufactures. For me I think this is the only type of battery I will purchase. Had too many dead lead acid.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:08 PM   #21
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It would be better to determine the cause of the battery going dead rather than just buying a more expensive battery that would also go dead if the power drain is not discovered. AGM batteries require different charging than flooded lead-acid batteries, so check your converter to make sure it is compatible with AGM. Regular old deep cycle batteries can last many years as long as they are not drained down too much, most recommend draining to no less than a 50% charge.
I have at least 3 items that place a drain on my battery when not in use (gas detector, radio memory, and electric brake circuit checker), but I also permanently mounted a 90 watt solar panel on top that keeps it topped up daily.
A cutoff switch is also a great idea for long term storage if you have items trying to draw power, and Larry Gamble has kits available for that at Little House Customs.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:13 PM   #22
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Dead lead acid

Killed my new group 27 in one night running my heater in cold weather mountain camping.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:21 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Allen View Post
Killed my new group 27 in one night running my heater in cold weather mountain camping.
Something wrong there. Must have been running full time.
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uplander View Post
I have been reading a lot about batteries for my travel trailer.
After much research I have focused in on AGM type deep cell units.
Amazon has an Excide brand AGM with a 100 AH rating for a little over $200.
The battery comes with a two year free replacement warranty.
Lithium batteries are also worth considering but availability and cost are a concern. I want something that will last.
Last year I purchased a group 27 size deep cell standard liquid acid battery made by interstate. It came with a one year replacement warranty. It discharged to about zero on two occasions when parked without power and no real load...
not good...I was so upset that I returned it at the end of camping season last November and insisted on a full refund not a replacement. Since I purchased it at a Walmart the refund was not a problem.

I plan on having my trailer's electrical system checked to make sure that the rapid discharge of last year's battery was not caused by my converter or some other system failure. I will do this before I buy another battery.

First question is what battery to buy...right now I am focused on an AGM type.
Second question is am I missing anything else that could cause battery failure.
My goal is to buy the right battery with a long life expectancy and not spend a fortune.

Any and all advise appreciated. Thank You.
The rip 27 battery is far cheaper and performs valiantly. Watch out for spring sales as fishing sales bring out battery sales. We got a Exide group 27 battery at Manards for $84.95, a super cheap price.
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:44 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Flyboyscamp View Post
The rip 27 battery is far cheaper and performs valiantly. Watch out for spring sales as fishing sales bring out battery sales. We got a Exide group 27 battery at Manards for $84.95, a super cheap price.
Meant to type Group 27 battery
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Old 03-04-2016, 07:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
You can also use a cheap Harbor Freight (or any other) volt meter and set it to check amps. Mine you set on "10A" and move the probe over one hole. Undo one of the battery cables and just put the meter inline- one probe on the cable, the other on the battery terminal. If you get readings, then you definitely have something "live" inside your trailer pulling on the battery.

Floyd and others have installed an "on/off" switch to prevent this. I have never used a switch but never had a problem with my battery dying-- well except when I left the fridge on a couple of times and pulled it down completely. And yes, I can tell it has been reduced in capacity. But still, that battery is still going after 6 yrs. I also keep a $25 Battery Tender plugged up to it year/round.

One thing to keep in mind, I'm not a boondocker so I dont rely heavily on my battery...other than just lights etc when I go down to my Scamp periodically.
I have no master "on/off" switch on my trailer, but then I have no draw in the trailer during storage. Some folks have things like CO detectors,smoke alarms, keep alive power to radios, tvs etc, which can draw a battery down over time.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:45 AM   #27
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Name: Patrick
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Flyboy scamp, "Type 27" designates a battery size...was your Manards Exide battery an AGM battery or a liquid acid lead plate battery ? I would venture to guess by that price it was not an AGM battery.

Because of information I have gleamed from this post I will be installing an "on/off switch" on my new battery.
During camping season I do keep my travel trailer plugged in to A/C power to maintain the battery charge...if not plugged in having the battery disconnect switch makes sense!!! In the winter the battery is stored inside and but on a battery charger/maintainer to prevent complete down charging when in storage.
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:55 AM   #28
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Yes, lead acid and working great. I too took it out when storing the trailer for winter and kept in downsairs in the shop. A smart charger, digital type, totally charges the battery to 12.88 volts while down there. It's more than ready for the season.
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