Tips/strategy/material to finish '80 Scamp floor replacement? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-11-2019, 01:34 PM   #1
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Name: Melanie
Trailer: 1978 Acorn Scamp Camper
Colorado
Posts: 8
Tips/strategy/material to finish '80 Scamp floor replacement?

Hi all, I have a 1980 Scamp. It's actually an "Acorn", same trailer/company, different name. It was a disaster when we got it last summer, and a piece of the floor/chipboard was completely rotted through. Despite having zero handywoman skills, I've set out to restore this sucker. I cut out the rotted wood, then purchased and cut a new piece of floor board. After sealing the new and old wood, I installed the new board.

Problem - since I have no idea what I'm doing, the cut is not perfect. There is a small gap along the horizontal length between the old and new wood - you can see the driveway below in the picture. When you step on the old wood, it bends, and the two pieces of wood separate (to loud and startling effect).

Question - what can I do to secure the two pieces of wood together? Do I fill the gap with some kind of insulation or caulk? The metal plates in the picture I originally imagined I would use to secure the wood together, but I think it needs more. And I'm aware that bouncing down the highway will jiggle and jar anything I use to fill the gap between the wood. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:36 PM   #2
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Name: Elliott
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If you can access underneath, screwing a board across both would probably help with the "separation under weight" problem. For the line on top, I'm less sure... maybe filling with some sort of epoxy would work?
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Old 01-12-2019, 05:10 AM   #3
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Since the front and rear floors actually are 90%+ of what is holding the shell to the trailer frame replacing the pieces with 3/4" plywood (One piece) is a good idea.
That piece needs to be glassed to the shell to distribute the loads across the front of the shell.
If not the loads are concentrated at the point where the frame rails pass under the shell.
Look carefully at the frame as well as it is very (VERY) likely that there is cracking and corrosion between the floor and the frame and your work could be for naught anyway.

You can support the shell and take a cheap Harbor Freight vibrating saw and cut out the existing fiberglass bonding and remove the floor, inspect and reinforce the frame. prime and paint and replace the flooring, bonding it to the shell.
The early Scamps used thinwall steel for the rectangular tubing and there is a history of cracking in the bends.
Perhaps the 13' Scamps are not as much of a problem, but time keeps on slipping, slipping by.
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Old 01-12-2019, 05:21 AM   #4
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelanieW View Post
Hi all, I have a 1980 Scamp. It's actually an "Acorn", same trailer/company, different name. It was a disaster when we got it last summer, and a piece of the floor/chipboard was completely rotted through. Despite having zero handywoman skills, I've set out to restore this sucker. I cut out the rotted wood, then purchased and cut a new piece of floor board. After sealing the new and old wood, I installed the new board.
Problem - since I have no idea what I'm doing, the cut is not perfect. There is a small gap along the horizontal length between the old and new wood - you can see the driveway below in the picture. When you step on the old wood, it bends, and the two pieces of wood separate (to loud and startling effect).
Question - what can I do to secure the two pieces of wood together? Do I fill the gap with some kind of insulation or caulk? The metal plates in the picture I originally imagined I would use to secure the wood together, but I think it needs more. And I'm aware that bouncing down the highway will jiggle and jar anything I use to fill the gap between the wood. Any help is greatly appreciated!
You're doing fine Melanie. A couple metal straps or the wood Elliott suggested on the underside should keep it from flexing to much. Welding another supporting cross member from the frame rails would be best. Counter sink the bolt heads on top so you have a smooth surface for the finished covering. I'd caulk the joints with a flexible compound as it may still move a little bit. On the plus side, that floor area isn't a critical walking area like the center isle .
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Old Yesterday, 02:20 AM   #5
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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You should be aware that while the floor you walk on should be solid the other pieces actually support the shell.
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Old Yesterday, 05:42 AM   #6
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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Agree with JD. The edges must be fiberglassed to the shell. The frame supports the floor, and the floor supports the shell, which is actually cantilevered out past the frame.

And yes, it would be much stronger (and eliminate the flexing) if the dinette floor were one solid piece. Reinforcing from below is a band-aid, in my opinion. Sometimes you have to back up a step to go forward. Plywood is expensive, but the cost is small in the bigger picture, and if you do this right, you will never have to deal with it again. Do it once and do it right. BTW, Scamp treats the underside of the floor with fiberglass resin. Since you have to do fiberglass work anyway...

Finally I also agree this is the time to inspect, repair/reinforce, and treat the frame. At 40 years old, it could well be rusting through in some critical areas. The most vulnerable spots are under the front of the cabin where the main rails bend to form the A-frame.
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