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04-12-2016, 10:58 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Toe Kick Area Suggestions?
I am working on the trim around the lower floor and since I removed the original fiberglass closet and front lower bunk I have the exposed metal behind it that I would like to cover but I have not come up with something I really like yet. I plan to use the same at the rise between the upper and lower floors. I thought of laminate or wood trim but I really don't want screw heads to show there and I am not sure about gluing it either. I have some extra laminate but not really excited about using that as a toe kick but it would match the floor. I saw one reno here that looked nice who used diamond plate for toe kick but that really is not gonna go good with my dark stained wood work work.
Any suggestions guys and gals?
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04-13-2016, 08:44 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 235
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How about cutting down some real-- or fake -- ceiling tiles. You could have "fun" (HGTV lingo) with color, texture, and pattern. There is even matching trim, too.
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Dimensions-Faux-Tin-Surface-Mount-Ceiling-Tile-Common-12-in-x-12-in-Actual-6-in-x-6-in/999922732
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04-13-2016, 08:47 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 16 ft Scamp Side Dinette
Posts: 310
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A good glue will hold a piece of laminate to the metal.
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04-13-2016, 09:00 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp
Idaho
Posts: 223
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You could also paint them with a color of your choice. Mine are black Rustoleum.
Gordon
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04-13-2016, 09:18 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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I also thought of trimming those areas out in the same stainded 1x2 select pine that I used on the cabinets like a picture frame and gluing the same matching off white headliner inside the trimmed frames, my wife thought of that last night and I think it might look pretty good...what do ya'll think? I like Ruth's idea too but already over budget so I may try the headline first.
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04-13-2016, 10:57 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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It sounds like it would look nice. If you find it doesn't work out the way you thought, you could always change it out to something else at a later date.
Dave & Paula
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04-13-2016, 11:15 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon in Idaho
You could also paint them with a color of your choice. Mine are black Rustoleum.
Gordon
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I did paint them black with Rustoleum when I worked on the frame but wanted something a little more dressed up but good suggestion Gordon, thanks for the reply.
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04-13-2016, 11:17 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David B.
It sounds like it would look nice. If you find it doesn't work out the way you thought, you could always change it out to something else at a later date.
Dave & Paula
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That is what I was thinking. Also on my rear upper cabinet above the horizontal top cabinet door trim I was gonna cut a piece of plywood to follow the roof curve, stain it and using a wood burning iron put "the Martins" in it in a nice cursive script.
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04-13-2016, 11:36 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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John, making it your own is what it is all about. I know that what I envision normally comes out less than perfect (wood burning script), but the vinyl I applied fools almost everyone that has seen it....... another option?
Dave & Paula
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04-13-2016, 11:44 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp
Idaho
Posts: 223
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Just a couple of friendly suggestions:
Keep in mind that a toe kick will get "kicked". Form follows function.
As a retired cabinetmaker, I recommend that you do not mix woods, unless they are significantly contrasting, and that's the look that you want.
Also, the kick space under my kitchen cabinet was so deep that I was able to put a handy wire chase behind it, and it still looks like a black void under there.
Have fun!
Gordon
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04-13-2016, 01:56 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2020 Escape 19 (was 2005 16 ft Scamp Side Dinette and 2005 Fleetwood (Coleman) Taos pop-up)
Posts: 1,227
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I was wondering the same thing on our Scamp. I did see vinyl baseboard trim at the local Home Depot store that comes in white, tan, black and possibly other colors. It has a little curved edge at the bottom that would cover any expansion that you may have left with your flooring, and can be attached to the metal with baseboard glue. Looks like this link.
__________________
Dave (and Marilyn who is now watching from above)
Sharpsburg, GA
04 Dodge Dakota V-8, 17 Dodge Durango V-6, 19 Ford Ranger 2.3 Ecoboost
radar1-scamping.blogspot.com
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04-13-2016, 03:03 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jack L
Trailer: Sold the Bigfoot 17-Looking for a new one
Washington
Posts: 1,561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radar1
I was wondering the same thing on our Scamp. I did see vinyl baseboard trim at the local Home Depot store that comes in white, tan, black and possibly other colors. It has a little curved edge at the bottom that would cover any expansion that you may have left with your flooring, and can be attached to the metal with baseboard glue. Looks like this link.
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I would like to find something like this that is about 1 inch tall. maybe a little taller.
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04-13-2016, 10:16 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David B.
John, making it your own is what it is all about. I know that what I envision normally comes out less than perfect (wood burning script), but the vinyl I applied fools almost everyone that has seen it....... another option?
Dave & Paula
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David that is the look I was going for just didn't think of using vinyl lettering that is a good idea
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04-13-2016, 10:28 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Gordon, I am using 1x2s and 1x3s of premium select pine for the trim work and cabinets frames, plywood for paneling for the bathroom wall and sides to the fridge/toaster oven cabinets all with a dark stain...I am sure it is not up to the standard of a cabinet maker but this is my first attempt at making cabinets of any kind and with basic hand tools, a drill, circular saw, jig saw and hand miter saw. And I don't have the budget for more expensive wood. We actually like what we have so far but I am curious, other than the visual aspect is there another reason as to why you should not mix wood types?
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04-13-2016, 10:50 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
Posts: 1,261
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Also regarding the hand tools, my wife got me a good set of blades with 5 different tooth counts for various wood back at Christmas and I have learned to make and use some jigs I made in lieu of a table saw for ripping and cross cuts...all though it is slower than a table saw...but I am quite impressed with the quality of cuts I have been able to make ...I make all my cuts using a pallet as a table and using the jigs and some clamps I can easily cut up even a large sheet of 4x8 plywood very accurately with nice square corners and everything fits like it should...had I tried it before I learned about the jigs it would probably be all jack up ...if your wondering why I didn't ask for a table saw instead of new blades is because I didn't think I would use it very often other than this project and really don't have the room for it in the garage but my jigs hang on the wall without taking up valuable floor space and seem to work just as good for when I do need to cut something
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04-14-2016, 10:39 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: Scamp
Idaho
Posts: 223
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Hello John,
There is no conflict between wood species, only in a person's mind. I spent a lot of wonderful time helping people choose wood to match their taste. I guess it's a little late to suggest that you don't stain wood. Embrace pine for what it is. It's beautiful on it's own. The natural blond color is really nice. Don't try to make a silk purse from a sow's ear. If you want dark wood, get walnut. The added cost might just give you joy for the rest of your life. Stains, such as Minwax, will eliminate the natural iridescence found in all wood. The depth, if you will. Pigment stains will "flatten" the wood. No more magic.
All the wood in my Scamp and the new work in my home is Douglas Fir, carefully selected from piles at the nearest lumber yard, and finished in clear gloss. When I was in the business, I had great sources of wood in Vermont. Now that I'm in Idaho, I use what grows here.
Most of my customers didn't realize that I had carefully grain-matched all their drawer fronts from the same piece of lumber, but I think they're still enjoying the subtle difference today.
So, at the risk of sounding like a wood snob, I say again, don't mix woods. This may be feng shui thing, I'm not sure. But I know that wood can give you harmony in your life, every day. Go ahead and use "golden oak" plywood doors and "bamboo" flooring if you want to. Who really cares? Well, I do, but I'm not saying that everyone should.
I not sure what you mean by a set of blades, but I'm thinking you must have a track saw, in order to get square cuts? I admire your initiative, working on a pallet. When I retired, I sold my machinery, thinking I'd find some other worthy pursuit. Now I've turned a quarter of my double-wide "manufactured" home into a "gentleman's shop". Smaller machines, tight space,....but it's so much fun. When trying to describe this home conversion to a local woman , she said: "Your not married, are you". It was a statement, not a question.
Pictures can say a lot more than words. I intend to upload an entire gallery, as soon as everything is finished, which, of course, it never will be. But here's one:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/a...1&d=1460649595
How did I get here from "toe kick"? I don't know.
Gordon
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