Tongue Jack Replacement? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-03-2007, 06:16 AM   #1
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Hi all. Our 2004 13' Scamp has an Atwood tongue jack that has the mount welded to the side of the trailer tongue. (Some may recall me asking about a wheel for it, so I could push the trailer around when setting up camp. Solution: learn how to back it up with the car, which I did!). Anyway, the crank on the jack strikes the side of the propane tank. It's not a big thing, since I can lift up on the crank as I turn it, but a side crank would be a more sensible setup. The Atwood is held to the mount by a large snap ring, so it would be easy enough to change. I talked with Atwood, and while wanting to help, they didn't have much to offer. They've even changed to a different manufacurer since 2004. I'm hoping maybe someone else has come across something that happens to fit the same mount.

Thanks,
Parker
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Old 12-03-2007, 10:29 AM   #2
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This may not be much help.
My 2006 had the jack mounted too far back and the handle ran into the propane tank, like you're describing. It wasn't a difficult thing to have the mount cut off and repositioned as far forward as possible. Another thing to look at, is the propane tank properly located. On mine there some locating pieces welded to the angle iron that tank sits on.
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Old 12-03-2007, 01:35 PM   #3
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Another maybe-helpful suggestion:

The Scamp may have a coupler with a set of holes for mounting a jack. If so, then a new jack (top-wind or side-wind as desired) could bolt right in, and the side-mount bracket could be ignored. Note that these couple-mounted jacks do not fold, so if they don't retract far enough they get dragged.
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Old 12-03-2007, 03:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Another maybe-helpful suggestion:

The Scamp may have a coupler with a set of holes for mounting a jack. If so, then a new jack (top-wind or side-wind as desired) could bolt right in, and the side-mount bracket could be ignored. Note that these couple-mounted jacks do not fold, so if they don't retract far enough they get dragged.

No bolts, 1 7/8" coupler doesn't have mounting holes. Atwood also makes a "side winder". One could call Atwood and ask if the side winder will fit in the top winder bracket.
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Old 12-03-2007, 05:32 PM   #5
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Good spotting, Byron. Hey, I tried. Maybe this is an excuse to replace the coupler... with a 2" unit. That's definitely a welding job.
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Old 12-03-2007, 06:51 PM   #6
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No bolts, 1 7/8" coupler doesn't have mounting holes. Atwood also makes a "side winder". One could call Atwood and ask if the side winder will fit in the top winder bracket.
Actually, this one has a 2" coupler already, which is a bit mysterious for this year. The previous owners said it went back to the factory in 2005 and had some refurbishment done while it was there, which may have included a new coupler. I asked a couple of times to confirm that it had a 2" coupler on it before driving for a day to pick it up! (I've never tried it, but I assume a 1 7/8" coupler would not fit over a 2" ball.)

Anyway, I just looked and it does not appear that I can use a central jack as Brian suggested. I did try talking with Atwood. They sent me a bunch of drawings of previous models, but said someone else makes their jacks for them now (another case of outsourcing?) and they couldn't do much more to help.

Parker
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Old 12-03-2007, 06:55 PM   #7
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Parker,
Take the cramk off and saw out a 2 or 3 inch section from the middle and have a welder join it back together. Now your knuckles won't hit the tank.
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Old 12-03-2007, 08:21 PM   #8
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Parker,
Take the cramk off and saw out a 2 or 3 inch section from the middle and have a welder join it back together. Now your knuckles won't hit the tank.
Jim,

I've been keeping that option in reserve if I can't find an easy replacement. I did something similar on my teardrop when the crank interfered with a tongue-mounted cooler.

Parker
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Old 12-03-2007, 09:06 PM   #9
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How about instead of worrying about trying to get a replacement for the ring, just cut it off and mount a complete side wind jack?

Curt Trailer Jacks
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