trailer coupler question

[Patricia D.]

I am having trouble connecting and disconnecting my trailer and car. It is hard to tell if the ball is seated properly in the hitch and very hard to release it. I am interested to know if this coupler is original to Ventura trailers, if other owners find it hard to operate and if it is possible to replace it. It seems welded on way back onto the frame. Also, whether other Ventura owners use a 1 7/8 or 2 in ball.
Any opinions on if the mechanism can be changed would be appreciated. There was a recent thread about using a lock to make sure the connection is secure. With this present set up this is not possible and I would somehow like to change it.

[floyd]

.
You can buy a coupler of either size with the mechanism shown below which will accept a lock.
I suggest going to a 2" ball regardless of what you now have.

I'm guessing you have a 2" ball, standard 50° coupler flange.
You will need about $25, a 4" grinder, and a mig welder.

https://www.reesehitches.com/product...CABEgK4yPD_BwE

[Carl V]

I have the same coupler on my trailer. Works just fine.
Try this:http://www.popupexplorer.com/forum/i...?topic=94069.0

[Carl V]

As for how to lock these couplers, they have a hole on the side lip, curb side, where you can put a lock pin or padlock that will prevent the latching assembly from sliding back, unlatch and release the ball. You might be able to see "LOCK -->" stamped in the metal near the hole, unless it has been painted over many times. See:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tch-30281.html

I believe newer versions of these locks have a more traditional (and obvious) lock hole in the latching lever, where you can insert a pin or hitch lock.

[Patricia D.]

Carl, I could not see a hole but will look in the morning. 1 7/8 or 2 in ball on your hitch?
Floyd, if I did decide to put a new one on, do you think a welder would charge much to do this?

[David B.]

Patricia, from the pictures, the coupler looks fine. Have you tried lubricating it and the trailer ball? These parts should be greased periodically.
Dave & Paula

[Patricia D.]

Thanks Dave. No, it just occurred to me that I had read something about greasing a while ago. What is the best thing to use?

[David B.]

I just put some grease on my fingers from my grease gun, and smear it around inside the coupler and on the trailer hitch ball. For the moving parts hinges I use a little 3-in-1 oil.
Dave & Paula

[Jack L]

Some couplers have ways to adjust them, also, If the TV and trailer are not level the coupler and ball can have pressure that will prevent the latch from releasing.

[Carl V]

Originally Posted by Patricia D.

1 7/8 or 2 in ball on your hitch?

2 inches.

[k0wtz]

patricia you have to get under your hookup and spray it down good with a lubricant spray. I bet there is a lot of rust under there keep at it all this will eventually work loose and make things much better.


I also use the grease in a can whatever I think will work this has to all be flexible to work right!


good luck


bob

[Raz]

I have a similar coupler only mine has a hole in the latch for a locking pin. There is no adjustment. When you pull the latch forward you are also moving a piece of metal under the back of the ball. When the metal fingers on the latch sit in there holes, the ball is secure. For this to happen the ball must be positioned forward in the coupler cup. If it isn't the latch will not close. I sometimes I find it useful to push the trailer back or pull the tow forward. Lubrication will help slide the ball into the correct position. I use the same grease I use on the bearings but any grease will work. A tennis ball can be cut to fit over the greased ball to protect your clothes when you're not hitched up. I oil the latch mechanism when I oil the crank at the beginning of the season. For unhitching, the ball again must be forward in the coupling cup. If it is not, you will have trouble lifting the latch. Good luck.

[k0wtz]

exactly my method!

bob

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Patricia D.

Carl, I could not see a hole but will look in the morning. 1 7/8 or 2 in ball on your hitch?
Floyd, if I did decide to put a new one on, do you think a welder would charge much to do this?

Not sure, it depends on where you live and who you know and what you think is much. It shouldn't take more than an hour.

I would ask for a hard money quote, maybe at a trailer place. Should be under a hundred dollars maybe including the coupler.
I own a MIG welder with which I have built car chassis' so I haven't hired much done.
BTW... I think the coupler you have is safe and can take a padlock but I have never liked that design either.

[BruceJ]

Is there not a nut under the hitch to adjust the tightness of the hitch to ball? If so, loosen or tighten it up which ever way it needs to go.

[Patricia D.]

Thanks to all of you, some excellent advice. i will have a good look at it and grease it as soon as possible. A bout of vertigo today makes it a no go but soon.

[pete_britt]

I have that coupler on my utility trailer. It is not adjustable. I use a coupler pin lock something like this https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cou...Bolt/7691.html

[Glass House]

Grease on the ball and fitting is good(thanks for reminding me) and I often have to move the tow just a bit to get the fitting to fall onto the ball or loosen so it can come off the ball. Oftentimes just disengaging the parking brake does the trick.

[vintageracer]

Put a 2 5/16 inch ball coupler on your trailer.

That will keep your friends and relatives from wanting to "Borrow" your trailer!

[Gilles]

For my part I prefer to use a liquid lubricant, under pressure preferably and rather volatile, not to retain dust and sand from the road ...