Trailer dolly? No dolly? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-11-2012, 05:39 PM   #1
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Name: Ramsey
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Wisconsin
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Trailer dolly? No dolly?

Evening,
As mentioned in previous posts I am transitioning from a pop-up to a fiberglass camper. My property doesn’t lend itself well for final maneuvering with the tow vehicle relative to my campers parking area. It was fairly easy to unhook a popup from the tow vehicle and with a little help reposition the popup as needed. My question is how maneuverable are the 13 -16 foot fiberglass campers when detached from their tow vehicles ? Having a heavier dry weight, can they manually be repositioned or do they require some sort of dolly assist? Clearly a paved, level surface lends itself better than say a gravel or grass surface. What experiences have you had assuming you require some tweaking when it comes to parking?
As always, any input is appreciated.
ramsey
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Old 10-11-2012, 05:58 PM   #2
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Name: Dave W
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Since your tongue weight should be around 200 lb, or more, a dolly makes sense. I purchased mine for $40 used. I have seen them as low as $30. A good investment.

My drive way is sloped, so I wanted to be able to operate the trailer brakes when I moved the trailer.
Trailer Dolly Brake Control

It works great! The brakes actually take about a half a second to come on full, but they let go as soon as I hit the release button.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:14 PM   #3
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
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When our Scamp13 isn't in use it "hides" under a magnolia well off to the side of the driveway. I use a dolly to move it around, even on a slight slope without any problem. Much easier to steer etc. than just using the nose wheel.

I like the idea of using the brake though. Right now I rely on some chocks to stop it in the correct position. The ability to use the brakes seems like a good idea. Sigh, another item for the to-do list

Ron
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:16 PM   #4
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The first time I camped in my UHaul 13' I parked it on a pad and drove to the ranger station to check in. When I came back, it had blown into the camp road. It has a steel wheel on the tongue jack. So, on pavement, they are pretty easy to move.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:25 PM   #5
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Name: Ramsey
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Wisconsin
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manual dolly

Anyone have experience with the manual type dolly as opposed to a mechanical (some of these appear to be quite expensive) ....usually a set of double wheels, trailer ball and extended handle.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:35 PM   #6
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
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My dolly is the same type as in the link to brakes on a dolly. Pretty basic, two wheels, trailer ball and a handle. Is that what you mean by a manual dolly? If so, they're cheap and work really well because having a handle to pull and push on is easier than bending down to push. The handle also makes steering much easier.

Ron
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:05 PM   #7
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Name: Ramsey
Trailer: 16' Scamp
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Ron, yes that is what i had in mind. The mechanically enhanced version that David referenced while very nice, is likely beyond my skill set when it comes to making.
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:33 PM   #8
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I hope you're talking about a level pad or level grass or level gravel or just plain level if you're going to use one of these wheeled crowbars. Please don't overestimate what you can do singlehanded with a ton and half wheeled object; don't underestimate what it can do to you!

jack
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Old 10-11-2012, 07:40 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramsey View Post
Anyone have experience with the manual type dolly as opposed to a mechanical (some of these appear to be quite expensive) ....usually a set of double wheels, trailer ball and extended handle.
I've had the same $40.00 Harbor Freight dolly for at least 10 years.
The only maintenance has been to put inner tubes in the tires and an occassional shot of WD 40 on the spindles.
I use it to park three different trailers in my side yard which is covered in decomposed granite.
I can pull straigt into my side yard, unhook and manuver the trailer into it's spot. Save's a lot of time consuming backing.
I have a 13' egg now but did the same when I had my 16'camp.

John
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:58 PM   #10
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Another vote for trailer dollys.Even the $40 version allows my wife and I to push our Trill around on an unlevel gravel driveway. No way could we do it w/ just the nose wheel.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:39 AM   #11
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Name: Doug
Trailer: Escape 19
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I'm in the same position as Ramey -- currently have a pop-up which I maneuver manually into an awkward spot. I'm upgrading to a full-size (probably an Escape 19, but not certain yet) and I'd like to park it in the same spot. I'm either going to have to get a lot better at backing the trailer on the TV, or make do with some sort of dolly. When the time comes I'll be curious to see what I can do with a dolly, but with an Escape 19 (dry weight 2500lbs) I'm thinking I probably need something that can control the trailer brakes. Either that or a wife who's willing to throw some blocks and maybe herself under there if it starts to get away from me...
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:41 AM   #12
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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I have both a 4 wheel movers dolly and a Harbor Freight 2 wheel Trailer Dolly (BTW: They were on sale again last week).

I prefer the 4 wheel method when on concrete as it is easier to push on the trrailer itself than try to use the handle on the 2 wheel dolly where you have to lift, steer and push/pull from the same point. However, on less than very hard surfaces the two wheel version is a must.

And, BTW: adding the ability to engage the brakes when pushing the trailer around is an excellent idea. I use a hand held toggle switch that jumpers the coach battery to the brake pin on the trailer connector.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:40 PM   #13
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Name: Ramsey
Trailer: 16' Scamp
Wisconsin
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Bob, could you briefly elaborate on the four wheel dolly. Are you just removing the jack wheel and lowering the jack onto a plywood base mounted to the 4 wheel? anything special to keep jack from sliding on the plywood base?
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:14 PM   #14
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I use a 3/4"plywood across the middle of a moving dolly. I haven't had any problems with the jack moving on the platform. The plywood is attached to the dolly with four 2" deck screws. If you think it may be a problem, try putting a 3/8" x 3" bolt through the middle of the platform from the bottom side, with a large washer on each side and a nut to hold it in place. Then lower your jack over the bolt
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