Trailer jack handle conversion?? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-09-2012, 05:24 PM   #1
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Name: Tania
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Question Trailer jack handle conversion??

Hello All,
I am wanting to change my trailer jack handle (Atwood brand) from the top crank style to a side crank style keeping the same jack, as it is already installed in the tongue and heavy duty. I want more room on the tongue for the propane tanks and the battery. As it is now, we would hit our hand turning the crank handle if we have both the tanks and battery. We had the whole tongue redone and put on heavier gauge steel and longer tongue etc and the welder was supposed to move the jack forward. He did not and we are stuck with it the way it is. <_< (OR possibly pay more money to move it )
Is there such a thing or do I have to change the whole jack to get that? I just think that there should be some way to convert this handle. Anyone have good ideas to share? solutions or "don't do this answers & learn from my mistakes story?"
Thanks!
Tania
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:41 PM   #2
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For all the monkeying around, I'd just buy a new one. For less than $35 you can get a swing up: 1500 Lb. Capacity Dual Wheel Swing-Back Boat Trailer Jack

YMMV
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:55 PM   #3
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check etrailer or tractor supply or northern tool
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
For all the monkeying around, I'd just buy a new one. For less than $35 you can get a swing up: 1500 Lb. Capacity Dual Wheel Swing-Back Boat Trailer Jack

YMMV
I know Donna, but we had one of those on our tent trailer and hubby said he 1. doesn't like them or 2. want that again. Besides I am not sure that it will work with the new trailer tongue as it can't be too far forward and with the configuration the tanks would then be hanging over the side. I think that is what we talked about Our options are to convert handle, move jack or change configuration of tanks and battery (meaning only one 11# tank). I am hoping someone has a "convert handle approach" that I can use. Hubby isn't so sure we can find that. I say why not? It doesn't seem like it should be such an issue, but it is I am hoping someone has a creative solution
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:57 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
check etrailer or tractor supply or northern tool
Thanks Bob. I'll try them. I've tried looking on the google, but so far I haven't found anything that sounds right. Maybe I am not putting in the right info. Any suggestions on wording?
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:06 PM   #7
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How about removing the handle, welding on a nut to the shaft and using a battery-operated drill to raise and lower the jack. That's been done, now if I can just find the thread....
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:11 PM   #8
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Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
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There's 1 ton-rated side winder with 3 bolt flange here:

www.hitchesforless.com/casters_skid_feet.html

Should be a pretty easy changeout in the present location of your top winder. Hole spacing is probably standard or close enuf. Price 20+$ not prohibitive considering your tongue layout depends on it. I don't think you're going to find a "conversion" head nor do I think you need to.

jack
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #9
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Name: bob
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I agree with Jack that you will not find a conversion. Keep in mind that if you order a new jack that there are different lengths below the mounting flange, as in "retracted length", this is how much is sticking down with the moveable part cranked up all the way. Now for me it would be easy to relocate what you have, but I have welders, torches, drill presses and other shop equipment that apparently not everyone does, I can't imagine why.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:16 PM   #10
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. . . and "creativity" in this case probably would involve knowing that you need to dig around in a pile of junk til you find a rusty set of framed bevel gears to cobble on to the end of that shaft and then of course the diggin and the cobblin. Gratification from did it m'self is not usually instant! Or maybe you could weld a chunk of hex bar to the end of the shaft and motivate it with a socket and ratchet in an unobstructed segment of arc.

jack
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:06 AM   #11
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Name: Daniel
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I installed the model 273400 front wind jack from eTrailer to avoid hitting our tongue box. perfect fit and works great.

Trailer Jack, 2000 lbs. for A-Frame Couplers - Side Wind Atwood Trailer Jack 273400

Dan
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:36 AM   #12
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The individual that did the welding on my trillium to allow for twin tanks and a battery box took the pin out of the handle, found a piece of pipe that fit the shaft, drilled a hole and ran a bolt through the pipe and shaft. He then cut the pipe off at a height that would allow the handle to clear the battery, drilled another hole through the pipe and bolted the handle back on. Same jack, the handle sits about 3" higher and clears the battery box.
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:36 PM   #13
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You guys are great!! I don't know how to thank each person for their ideas without quoting each of you and that will take up so much space. But I forwarded the links onto my spouse and shared the "creative solutions" and he said "Yes, these will work and now we can move forward!"
I will post what we do when we get it done!! Thank you for your awesome help.
We got the shell back on the frame yesterday with some careful maneuvering. Getting so excited to see it moving forward
~Tania
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:04 AM   #14
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Or remove the handle and weld a socket on, if you need to go higher just use an extension with a ratchet wrench.
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