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09-09-2012, 04:24 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: Tania
Trailer: Newbie owners of TrailMite
Oregon
Posts: 67
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Trailer jack handle conversion??
Hello All,
I am wanting to change my trailer jack handle (Atwood brand) from the top crank style to a side crank style keeping the same jack, as it is already installed in the tongue and heavy duty. I want more room on the tongue for the propane tanks and the battery. As it is now, we would hit our hand turning the crank handle if we have both the tanks and battery. We had the whole tongue redone and put on heavier gauge steel and longer tongue etc and the welder was supposed to move the jack forward. He did not and we are stuck with it the way it is. <_< (OR possibly pay more money to move it )
Is there such a thing or do I have to change the whole jack to get that? I just think that there should be some way to convert this handle. Anyone have good ideas to share? solutions or "don't do this answers & learn from my mistakes story?"
Thanks!
Tania
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09-09-2012, 04:41 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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For all the monkeying around, I'd just buy a new one. For less than $35 you can get a swing up: 1500 Lb. Capacity Dual Wheel Swing-Back Boat Trailer Jack
YMMV
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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09-09-2012, 05:55 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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check etrailer or tractor supply or northern tool
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09-09-2012, 05:55 PM
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#4
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Member
Name: Tania
Trailer: Newbie owners of TrailMite
Oregon
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
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I know Donna, but we had one of those on our tent trailer and hubby said he 1. doesn't like them or 2. want that again. Besides I am not sure that it will work with the new trailer tongue as it can't be too far forward and with the configuration the tanks would then be hanging over the side. I think that is what we talked about Our options are to convert handle, move jack or change configuration of tanks and battery (meaning only one 11# tank). I am hoping someone has a "convert handle approach" that I can use. Hubby isn't so sure we can find that. I say why not? It doesn't seem like it should be such an issue, but it is I am hoping someone has a creative solution
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09-09-2012, 05:57 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: Tania
Trailer: Newbie owners of TrailMite
Oregon
Posts: 67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
check etrailer or tractor supply or northern tool
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Thanks Bob. I'll try them. I've tried looking on the google, but so far I haven't found anything that sounds right. Maybe I am not putting in the right info. Any suggestions on wording?
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09-09-2012, 06:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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09-09-2012, 06:06 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,697
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How about removing the handle, welding on a nut to the shaft and using a battery-operated drill to raise and lower the jack. That's been done, now if I can just find the thread....
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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09-09-2012, 06:11 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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There's 1 ton-rated side winder with 3 bolt flange here:
www.hitchesforless.com/casters_skid_feet.html
Should be a pretty easy changeout in the present location of your top winder. Hole spacing is probably standard or close enuf. Price 20+$ not prohibitive considering your tongue layout depends on it. I don't think you're going to find a "conversion" head nor do I think you need to.
jack
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09-09-2012, 06:55 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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I agree with Jack that you will not find a conversion. Keep in mind that if you order a new jack that there are different lengths below the mounting flange, as in "retracted length", this is how much is sticking down with the moveable part cranked up all the way. Now for me it would be easy to relocate what you have, but I have welders, torches, drill presses and other shop equipment that apparently not everyone does, I can't imagine why.
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09-09-2012, 07:16 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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. . . and "creativity" in this case probably would involve knowing that you need to dig around in a pile of junk til you find a rusty set of framed bevel gears to cobble on to the end of that shaft and then of course the diggin and the cobblin. Gratification from did it m'self is not usually instant! Or maybe you could weld a chunk of hex bar to the end of the shaft and motivate it with a socket and ratchet in an unobstructed segment of arc.
jack
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09-10-2012, 08:36 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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The individual that did the welding on my trillium to allow for twin tanks and a battery box took the pin out of the handle, found a piece of pipe that fit the shaft, drilled a hole and ran a bolt through the pipe and shaft. He then cut the pipe off at a height that would allow the handle to clear the battery, drilled another hole through the pipe and bolted the handle back on. Same jack, the handle sits about 3" higher and clears the battery box.
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09-10-2012, 02:36 PM
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#13
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Member
Name: Tania
Trailer: Newbie owners of TrailMite
Oregon
Posts: 67
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You guys are great!! I don't know how to thank each person for their ideas without quoting each of you and that will take up so much space. But I forwarded the links onto my spouse and shared the "creative solutions" and he said "Yes, these will work and now we can move forward!"
I will post what we do when we get it done!! Thank you for your awesome help.
We got the shell back on the frame yesterday with some careful maneuvering. Getting so excited to see it moving forward
~Tania
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10-16-2012, 12:04 AM
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#14
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Member
Name: Joe
Trailer: Casita 17' SD
Arizona
Posts: 57
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Or remove the handle and weld a socket on, if you need to go higher just use an extension with a ratchet wrench.
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10-16-2012, 06:31 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: john
Trailer: scamp 13
Michigan
Posts: 1,318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
How about removing the handle, welding on a nut to the shaft and using a battery-operated drill to raise and lower the jack. That's been done, now if I can just find the thread....
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oh nice,,,, dangit donna i was just going to sugjest that!
__________________
Do not neglect to show hospitality to strangers, for by doing so, some have entertained angels unaware.
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10-16-2012, 10:54 AM
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#17
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Member
Name: Tania
Trailer: Newbie owners of TrailMite
Oregon
Posts: 67
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Well we were able in the end to just cut down the long screw that holds down the two 11# bottles and the top crank worked just fine over the top of them!! We haven't welded in the holder, but are so pleased it all is going to work without anymore modifications or extra buying and exchanging out anything. We got very lucky.
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10-16-2012, 01:54 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,137
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Way to go Tania!
I thought I was the only member that had 2 11# bottles. I love it and think I may have found a better tongue box to match. Time will tell.
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