Trillium(2010) Window Reseal - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-12-2011, 12:46 PM   #1
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
Trillium(2010) Window Reseal

While trouble shooting a leak, we removed and resealed the rear windows on our Trillium. I took some pictures of the removal of one of the side windows as someone in the future might find it helpful. These are Hehr 8700 series windows. They are installed with a sealed outer flange pulled against the trailer body by screws in a clamping ring on the inside of the trailer. The clamping ring is sized based on the wall thickness. The trailer manufacturer has thickened the wall around the windows with plywood.
Attached Thumbnails
P7230641.jpg  
__________________

__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2011, 12:47 PM   #2
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
To remove the clamping ring I first had to remove the shade brackets, and some of the screws holding the storage shelf above the windows. (Note: These storage shelves are held in place with drywall screws screwed into the plywood window spacer. Use too long a screw or screw them in too deep and they will go right through the wall of the camper). I also had to drop the light fixture screwed into the bottom of the shelf.
Attached Thumbnails
P7230609.jpg   P7230610.jpg  

__________________

__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2011, 12:49 PM   #3
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
To remove the clamping ring you first remove all the screws and then gently pry the ring loose. The sealant on the exterior of the window holds it in place.
Attached Thumbnails
P7230612.jpg   P7230613.jpg  

P7230614.jpg   P7230616.jpg  

__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2011, 12:51 PM   #4
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
To remove the window I used a dull putty knife. I pushed up from the bottom between the window flange and the trailer body and twisted the putty knife in several places. Working my way around the window I was able to pry the window out enough to get my fingers behind the flange and gently pull the window free. As the trailer is less than 2 years old, this was not that difficult.

We used the same putty knife to clean the old sealant off both the trailer and the window flange. What couldn't be removed with the putty knife came off with Goo Gone. Everything then got cleaned with windex.
Attached Thumbnails
P7230619.jpg   P7230620.jpg  

P7230621.jpg  
__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2011, 12:54 PM   #5
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
When the window is installed oversized holes are drilled in the clamping ring thus allowing the screw to spin freely. The installer then drills (through the clamping ring hole) the correct size hole for the screws in a channel around the inside of the window. As the screw is tightened it threads into the channel hole while spinning freely in the clamping ring hole, thus drawing the two parts together. While Hehr in their service manual says No.6 screws should be used, every one seems to use No. 8 screws. This has a tendency to distort and in some cases break the channel leaving too large a hole for the screw to grip. I found several holes in this condition.
Attached Thumbnails
P7230627.jpg  
__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2011, 12:56 PM   #6
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
I found rubber butyl tape at the local building supply store. It is sold to seal sheet metal roofing. As they only sold it in 1/2" width, we doubled it up. We replaced the original screws which were already starting to rust with stainless steel screws which we painted black to match the originals.
Attached Thumbnails
P7230635.jpg   P7230638.jpg  

P7230639.jpg   P7230640.jpg  

__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2011, 12:58 PM   #7
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
Installing the window takes two people. Once the window is in place one person holds it there while the other installs the clamping ring from inside the trailer. Care should be taken when tightening the screws not to strip the holes. A larger screw is not an option should the channel break.

The putty will ooze out from the sides of the window. We let it sit for several days and then removed the excess with the same dull putty knife. Raz
Attached Thumbnails
P7240643.jpg   P7250592.jpg  

__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 06:37 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Joe MacDonald's Avatar
 
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
Posts: 753
looks good, hope it cures the leak for you
__________________
Joe MacDonald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 06:53 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
Posts: 24,433
Thanks for the write up Raz! This will invaluable for those that don't know how to pull and reseal windows with clamp rings. As an addition, I've pulled and resealed a couple of windows in my Scamp all by myself. After I placed the window in the trailer, I used duct tape to tape it in place (didn't want it to fall out ). That allowed me to go inside and screw the clamp ring in place.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
Donna D. is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 09:51 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Name: Laurie
Trailer: 13 Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 118
Registry
I'm still getting over the shock that you have to do this, and do it yourself, on a new trailer!? I finally got the gumption to replace the little window over the stove on my "new" 1978 Trillium. Took all day, but I did it. I got great help off this forum but no one mentioned doubling up on the butyl. Did you do it because the channel in your flange is probably deeper than on my old flat aluminum? I sure don't wan't to have to do it again for a while. Hope your repair worked. Mine fixed one leak but now I (hopefully) found the other so more windows in my future. Thank you for taking and sharing your pictures! You have no idea how much it helps us little newbies!
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Installing the window takes two people. Once the window is in place one person holds it there while the other installs the clamping ring from inside the trailer. Care should be taken when tightening the screws not to strip the holes. A larger screw is not an option should the channel break.

The putty will ooze out from the sides of the window. We let it sit for several days and then removed the excess with the same dull putty knife. Raz
__________________
lhanna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 10:02 AM   #11
Member
 
Maggie R.'s Avatar
 
Name: Maggie
Trailer: 2010 Trillium 13' (California-made)
Vermont
Posts: 86
Registry
Hi Laurie,

We doubled up on the butyl because what we had was only 1/2" wide and we wanted to make sure that it would ooooooze out the sides. If your's has oooooozed then it's probably just right.

We've had several rains (and a camper wash) with no leaks from the windows or belly band (or anywhere else!).

Raz and I both laughed aloud when you intimated we are NOT newbies ... we've had our Trill since only May '10

Rock on!
Maggie

Quote:
Originally Posted by lhanna View Post
I'm still getting over the shock that you have to do this, and do it yourself, on a new trailer!? I finally got the gumption to replace the little window over the stove on my "new" 1978 Trillium. Took all day, but I did it. I got great help off this forum but no one mentioned doubling up on the butyl. Did you do it because the channel in your flange is probably deeper than on my old flat aluminum? I sure don't wan't to have to do it again for a while. Hope your repair worked. Mine fixed one leak but now I (hopefully) found the other so more windows in my future. Thank you for taking and sharing your pictures! You have no idea how much it helps us little newbies!
__________________
Backing up is not my specialty. Nope.
Maggie R. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 10:13 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Name: Laurie
Trailer: 13 Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 118
Registry
Oh goodness! I had totally forgotten your hubby's name! I didn't realize I was talking to the other "kids" on the forum lol! Mine was also 1/2 " and it oozed so hooray. Just an update, I may not have to go near the fiberglass fix, let you know after I do the front and back window. Not until next week though. We are getting ready to leave tomorrow in the big trailer and of course, it is raining. No leaks in this one thank goodness!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maggie R. View Post
Hi Laurie,

We doubled up on the butyl because what we had was only 1/2" wide and we wanted to make sure that it would ooooooze out the sides. If your's has oooooozed than it's probably just right.

We've had several rains (and a camper wash) with no leaks from the windows or belly band (or anywhere else!).

Raz and I both laughed aloud when you intimated we are NOT newbies ... we've had our Trill since only May '10

Rock on!
Maggie
__________________
lhanna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 04:08 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Name: Ken
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
US
Posts: 1,564
I never would have thought that plywood would be there. Has anyone ever seen this construction method on other brands before?

Thanks for taking the time to share your write up and post all these photos.
__________________
Ken C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 05:43 PM   #14
Raz
Senior Member
 
Raz's Avatar
 
Name: Raz
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
Posts: 4,060
"I never would have thought that plywood would be there. Has anyone ever seen this construction method on other brands before?"



That's an interesting question. Since the fiberglass is so thin, I just assumed all the manufacturers used the same technique to give the clamping ring or screws something to grab on to. Perhaps folks will share their experience. Raz
__________________

__________________
Raz is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
trillium


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2010 Trillium: A work in progress Raz Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 28 07-07-2011 07:37 PM
Reseal skylight on 2003 17 Bigfoot garylake Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 5 06-28-2011 10:27 AM
2010 EGGFEST / SCAMP CAMP - Sept 15-19, 2010 Jim Hovind Rallies, Get-togethers, Molded Meets (Archive) 37 09-20-2010 05:20 PM
2010 Trillium 1300 Report Raz General Chat 0 07-12-2010 02:09 PM
Reseal or Full Re-seat Roof Vent? Trill 4500 Fred G. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 6 09-06-2006 10:10 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:33 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.