Trillium Belly Band: is this a workable fixit? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-21-2015, 04:09 PM   #29
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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My wife drives bus for First Student, (formerly Cardinal).

A front dinette Trillium is a sweet trailer.

I still say you have a 14" roof vent. Is this factory? I think some of the later 1300's got a 14" vs. a 9" vent. Handy for putting a Fantastic, or Maxxfan on, which it looks like you have.

I especially like your door hatches for the door re-hang. Any details on that?

What did you do to the front window?
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:37 PM   #30
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Name: Brigitte
Trailer: Trillium 4500
Quebec
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Question Trillium 4500 who need help!

He! Could somebody help me? I have bought a Trillium 4500 1978 since 2 months. I still have water in it. I have repaired cracks on the fiberglass, changed the roof hatch, changed the screws around the windows, changed the moldings around the windows, put missing pup-rivet. I just read that we should not used silicon on fiberglass and I used lot of lot of silicon everywhere. Could you tell me why I should not use silicon? I still have water under the floor and sometime in one wall. Maybe you had the same experience. Please excuse my English, this is not my native language...
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:11 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigitte Doyon View Post
He! Could somebody help me? I have bought a Trillium 4500 1978 since 2 months. I still have water in it. I have repaired cracks on the fiberglass, changed the roof hatch, changed the screws around the windows, changed the moldings around the windows, put missing pup-rivet. I just read that we should not used silicon on fiberglass and I used lot of lot of silicon everywhere. Could you tell me why I should not use silicon? I still have water under the floor and sometime in one wall. Maybe you had the same experience. Please excuse my English, this is not my native language...
Hi Brigitte and welcome. As far a sealing any vents and windows you need to remove all the old butyl tape, clean it up good and use new butyl. Just changing out the screws won't do any good. Silicone is not a good idea for a good seal on fiberglass as it doesn't last all that long. Silicone is used a lot on stick built trailers but doesn't work well with fiberglass and leaves a crummy residue. BTW, a small bit of butyl under the rivet snap cap will seal them as well. Others will chime in soon.
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:41 AM   #32
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Name: Brigitte
Trailer: Trillium 4500
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Trillium 4500 who need help!

What about the fiberglass. It has been painted and it,s not shiny. I wonder what to do whit it?
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Old 08-23-2015, 09:33 AM   #33
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Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
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Brigitte,

Is the paint just dull or is it damaged, flaking or scratched?
If it is just dull, you can simply wax it.
A popular solution is using Zep floor wax (que tu trouveras chez Home Depot).
There are a lot of threads on this forum about it, here's the main one:
Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell..
Of course a thorough cleaning/scrubbing is required before waxing.

If the paint is not in good condition enough for waxing, you may consider stripping the old paint and either repainting or leaving it unpainted depending on the gelcoat surface you will uncover. In either case, a time consuming/costly job for sure.
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Old 08-26-2015, 12:16 PM   #34
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Name: Dave W
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Brigitte, We love pictures.
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Old 08-26-2015, 01:16 PM   #35
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
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Our belly band had gaps develop over the years and these were successfully fixed by drilling out the old affected rivets and replacing them with new 3/16th" rivets. Not as drastic as re-fiberglassing and certainly worth trying.
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