Trillium Frame - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-31-2012, 09:10 AM   #15
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Name: Mike
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My favorite tool for cutting rusty things is a 4" angle grinder.

It's always good to see these old things being taken care of!
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:46 AM   #16
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Yeah thats my thoughts as well. Don't look like I will be doing any work on it today, lots of snow falling.

I think I will weld on 6 L brackets inside the frame, one each side near the original hole on the front, and two on the rear each side under the benches. Put some 1/2" or better SS nut/bolt/washers on there and call it done. That will be alot better than the self tappers they have in there now.
Ours came with 7/16" ss bolts. Unfortunately they were too long and would not tighten. Adding 5 washers was sloppy, so I bought the correct length. Of course if you go to the hardware store and look for 7/16" ss bolts you won't find them. They stock 3/8" or 1/2". Go figure. While I could have drilled things out to 1/2"' the L brackets are small to begin with. I ordered online. I guess my point is make sure you get your hardware before you drill your holes. Raz
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:46 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Duke79 View Post
Yeah thats my thoughts as well. Don't look like I will be doing any work on it today, lots of snow falling.

I think I will weld on 6 L brackets inside the frame, one each side near the original hole on the front, and two on the rear each side under the benches. Put some 1/2" or better SS nut/bolt/washers on there and call it done. That will be alot better than the self tappers they have in there now.
The factory configuration is four bolts in the gaucho, and two under the dinette seats.

The cross member in your picture. Is it a C channel? if so, no tabs necessary there. Just drill into those. The only place that you need tabs is where you don't have a cross member.

It is difficult to describe, but the angle iron tabs on my trailer are welded perpendicular to the frame. The weld itself forms an L shape.

I also noticed that your trailer does not have plates welded at the bend / bolt hole location. This was a design change after the factory experimented with heat treating the frame. It was the heat treating that caused the cracking problem. The solution was to weld the plates on either side of the square tube around the hole. The factory did this to my trailer, even though there are no bolt holes through the square tube. One of my cross members is welded to the plates that are on the inside. This point on the frame is practically half way between the axle and the hitch. A very high stress point. It may be advisable for you to consider putting on these plates as well.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:47 PM   #18
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Yeah I plan on adding the modification to the frame when its blasted. I assume the gaucho is the front couch? If so the only bolts here are the two carriage through the frame, then there are the 4 under the bench on each side on the rear. Looks like 3 in the frame and one in the cross member so the 4 under the bench kinda make a upside down L, but all seem to be screws, nothing coming out the other side of the frame and no holes. We will find out I guess when I hack it out. Previous owners may have changed it around.
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Old 02-01-2012, 07:03 PM   #19
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OK have it off the frame. Like I said two in the front bench and 3 rusty screws on each side under the benches. Just chiseled the heads off the screws and pulled it through the bottom.

I jacked it up using a Hi Lift jack in the wheel wells with a board to distribute the weight. I stacked 2X4s on the frame until I could get the 2X6 boards I nailed together to create a 6X6 underneith. So far I have the rear off the frame totally but need to pick up two more jack stands to get the front off the frame. Then slide the sucker out.





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Old 02-01-2012, 07:55 PM   #20
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Nice. Great pictures too. Thanks.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:25 PM   #21
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Ever forward!
Good job!
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:52 PM   #22
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Alright got it out. Used a couple skidoo dollies and my motorcycle jack under it so I can move it around.



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Old 02-02-2012, 03:53 PM   #23
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2-piece frame? Mine's a '77 it is one piece.
Is the little vent by your fresh water tank? I don't have the vent. I wonder why they dropped it? Mine has leaked water over the years and rotted out some of the board that's under the water tank.
I wonder if those red factory stickers are still available? Mine are gone.
Good work- keep it up!
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:53 PM   #24
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Yeah the frame is 2 peices, the vent behind the wheel well is ducted to the furance for fresh air. My water tank is on the other side, port side, driver side, left side whatever you want to call it. I had some rot in the wood around the screws but thats about it, not enough to justify ripping out the whole floor.

How does my axle angle look? It doesn't have much give, I tried a few tricks for testing it I read in other posts.
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:07 PM   #25
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I too new to this stuff to know about axle angles. I did put electric brakes on mine but they already had the 4-bolt plate on it. Yours doesn't.
Perhaps someone else will chime in on the angle.
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:10 PM   #26
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Mine has the plate as well. I plan on doing the brakes with the electrical setup where I don't need a perminant controler in the cab.

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Old 02-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #27
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I just went and looked at the thread I did on putting on electric brakes. I can't really tell, but it looks like our axles are about the same angle. Here's my thread-
Old Volkswagens- hauling right!
What kind of set -up are you going to use? I bought a Tekonsha P-3 . I unplug it when I"m not hauling my "big rig" -LOL!
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:41 PM   #28
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I think thats the one. The controler just plugs into the 12V power supply up front?

Friends own a trailer repair shop here and thats the one they sell Tekonsha Prodigy, that way I can use either rig to tow the trailer without the ugly controler screwed into the dash.

How do you find that controler?

Nice VW as well. I have a friend that puts turbo diesels VWs in the old vans, makes a huge differance.
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