Trillium Frame - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-30-2012, 11:44 AM   #1
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Name: Tom
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Trillium Frame

Hi all,

We recently aquired a '73 1300. I am wanting to remove the frame to blast/paint and do the recall frame fix while I am at it. I had a look under the trailer and I only se the two front bolts where the crack forms. Seems to be ok but I understand that there are 6 bolts holding the trailer on the frame. I cannot find any more than the 2 on the front. No empty holes either.

Any Ideas?
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:29 PM   #2
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Tom,

Take a look on the inside of the gaucho, you should see four bolt heads, or holes where there used to be heads. Under the dinette seats, there should be one under each seat.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:00 PM   #3
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Thanks David, I have seen those there but they look like screws to me. I was hoping for through bolts... I guess those suckers will need drilling out, I can't even tell the drive design or size due to rust. I figure I will drill holes through the frame and run SS bolts on reassembly. Maybe stiffen the frame there as well.

Hahahaha I guess they have been there almost 40 years I can't expect much.

Any tips on supporting the trailer to get the frame out?

I figure I would drill out the screws, remove the front two bolts, then jack up the trailer frame and all, then block up the trailer with wood and lower the frame. Maybe take the wheels off to make it easier to pull out.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:54 PM   #4
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I can't remember where I saw it, but there's another thread that explains how to do it. Maybe you could search it. I don't have much luck using the search function because I get distracted with other threads while looking.

Be sure to support the fiberglass in as wide a footprint as you can. You'll be safe that way.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:00 PM   #5
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Yeah the support will be there for sure. Don't want to crack my egg....

I have searched and get sidetracked as well.
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itlives View Post
Be sure to support the fiberglass in as wide a footprint as you can. You'll be safe that way.
The folks at Outback / Trilliuim had my trailer off the frame. When I went to look at it I was supprized to see it sitting on a moving dolly. I am not sure what a 1300 looks like underneath, but the 4500 is not flat, it sticks out where the water tank is, under the dinette. The trailer was just resting on the front edge of the water tank protrusion and the front edge of the trailer. It looked kinda funny, (I will post pictures later). When I asked, they said that the cab of the trailer was not heavy enough to damage it. As far as I can tell, they were correct.
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Old 01-30-2012, 05:06 PM   #7
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Hello Tom and welcome. Not too long ago another member was dealing with a situation similar to yours. I will offer the same information I offered him. We have a new (2010) Trillium. It has 6 bolts. All attach to the frame through L shaped brackets welded to the side of the frame. I suspect this was done so as not to weaken the frame. Next, this is what I consider a very good thread on this subject (in particular entry #6).
Boler-to-frame fasteners -- I'd like advice on how to replace them

Tell me if you agree. Don't let the title mislead. Good luck, Raz
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:27 PM   #8
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I unbolted my 4500 from the frame recently. Most likely the very first time since it was built in 1977. The bolts and nuts became a solid piece of rust.

I had 8 bolts. 4 in front, 4 in back. They were like carrage bolts, with large fender type washers. The head of the bolt was wedged firmly in the plywood/glass floor board. Took a bunch of "persuading" to get out.

I used a 7/16 extra deep socket with an 3 inch extension. Reached under the trailer, beyond the box girder frame, and found the bolt by reaching up and feeling. (Note, that the trailer was on the wheels). When I put torque on the nut, the bolts snapped.

You can see some picts of the carnage here:
1978 Trillium 4500 restoration ...

I bought some 2x6x10' boards to put under the egg when I jack it up. Haven't done that yet.

Don't forget the other things you need to disconnect:
* wiring to the Tow V.
* gas line (mine when thru the frame)
* electrical ground ground
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:27 AM   #9
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I read that post on the Boler frame fastners, I agree with the L brackets like you mentioned. This would surely make it easier down the road.

I had a look at all the things I have to disconnect. My gas line runs through the frame as well.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
The folks at Outback / Trilliuim had my trailer off the frame. (I will post pictures later). When I asked, they said that the cab of the trailer was not heavy enough to damage it. As far as I can tell, they were correct.
OK, I guess they used blocks as well. The underside shot is from the back looking forward. The water tank fills most of the frame. The edge visible ahead of the tank is where the floor steps up under the dinette.


In the picture of the frame you can see the two tabs at the back for the frame bolts. The other six bolts go through cross members.
Attached Thumbnails
Off the Frame 1.jpg   Off the Frame 2.jpg  

Off the Frame 3.jpg  
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:12 AM   #11
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Thanks for the pics. From what I can see on mine is I have 3-4 self tappers either side in the benches on the rear, and 2 carriage bolts through the outter frame on the front. I tried these nuts on the front today and the whole bolt turned and the head is sunkinto the plywood inside so it looks like hammer and chisel time.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:19 AM   #12
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Here is a shot of the front bolts. As you can see the frame needs blasting and the support done.
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:33 AM   #13
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Usually with spinning carriage bolts I would chisel the top just enough to grip with vise grips but in this case unless the floor needs replacing I would consider a nut splitter or just a hack saw or grinder on the nut. Soft steel. Shouldn't take long. Raz
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:41 AM   #14
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Yeah thats my thoughts as well. Don't look like I will be doing any work on it today, lots of snow falling.

I think I will weld on 6 L brackets inside the frame, one each side near the original hole on the front, and two on the rear each side under the benches. Put some 1/2" or better SS nut/bolt/washers on there and call it done. That will be alot better than the self tappers they have in there now.
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