Trillium Frame - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-07-2013, 09:42 AM   #15
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This example was with a wide 7" rim and 2" of offset, so it is not likely to occur with narrower rims.

This is the one occasion when wheel spacers are not a nasty way to get around a problem - putting spacers on a trailer axle with offset rims allows the tyre/rim centreline to be brought onto the hub centreline, which is where the trailer hubs assume a wheel will be and where its bearings are designed for.

Using an offset auto wheel on a trailer axle without spacers is putting an off-centre load on the bearings - if the trailer weight is up near the axle capacity, that must shorten the bearing life, though I should say I don't have experience of that in practice.
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:45 PM   #16
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My Beachcomber came with 3' positive offset from the factory ,same thing going the other way did not seam to be a problem. i know why they did that .The tires would rub on the body with center lines.and at the end of the day the factory put the wrong axle in ,or was cheep because they got a deal.
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:07 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Craig Broughton View Post
rebuilding a 1976 Trillium, the frame is rotten does anyone have a auto cad drawing that i could give to the fab shop to start a new frame.
Considering that the Trillium is pretty much a body on frame design with a flat floor... Why not just buy a ready made utility trailer , remove the wood from the floor and mount the body on it?
They are commonly available with 14,16 &18 foot platforms.Cargo area would be ready made, front, back or both!
Keep in mind that utility trailers don't usually count the tongue in the advertized length.

I built a 1952 Ford pickup on an Econoline frame, it drove great and is still going straight and strong after more than 20 years. That sort of thing is common for streetrods and custom vehicles.
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Old 12-09-2013, 12:20 PM   #18
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Considering that the Trillium is pretty much a body on frame design with a flat floor... Why not just buy a ready made utility trailer
Just like a Boler, there is a step in the fibreglass behind the axle, so it is not quite flat.

The 4500 is much less flat. The water tank is below the floor of the dinette, and the drain for the tank is the lowest point of the fibreglass.

The offset required for the rim is zero. I have installed Ford Ranger rims on a Trillium 4500. The 3500# axle I had put on has too large of a center, so I had to grind about a 1/4" out the middle of the rim so it would fit.
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:22 PM   #19
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Just like a Boler, there is a step in the fibreglass behind the axle, so it is not quite flat.

The 4500 is much less flat. The water tank is below the floor of the dinette, and the drain for the tank is the lowest point of the fibreglass.

The offset required for the rim is zero. I have installed Ford Ranger rims on a Trillium 4500. The 3500# axle I had put on has too large of a center, so I had to grind about a 1/4" out the middle of the rim so it would fit.
It was not much of a step on my 13 Trillium. It certainly doesn't look like a challenge to me, especially when you consider that it is a simple boltdown design.
Notice the size of the "step" and how straight the the frame is...say compared to a Scamp where the there is not really a step, but rather a lowered floor section including the doorside and door opening.
The wheel offset becomes nearly moot with a frame change especially with negative offset (like a Ranger wheel).
Look here...
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trillium unfinished 037.jpg   trillium unfinished 009.jpg  

trillium unfinished 014.jpg  
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:11 PM   #20
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Floyd, I agree that the step is not especially large, but it reflects a step in the frame as well. this step in the frame actually happens before the axle, so the floor from that point to the step in the fibreglass is sitting below the frame. If the body were put on a flat frame, then it would be a good idea to put something in the place of that step in the frame. Not a big deal, just a good idea.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:22 PM   #21
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Floyd, I agree that the step is not especially large, but it reflects a step in the frame as well. this step in the frame actually happens before the axle, so the floor from that point to the step in the fibreglass is sitting below the frame. If the body were put on a flat frame, then it would be a good idea to put something in the place of that step in the frame. Not a big deal, just a good idea.
I can't imagine any mod like this would be done without a little tweaking.
But it would still be quite an easy mod at least worth looking into.
Last time I checked on a new 6X10 trailer frame ready to tow with a 2200# axle, it was something like $700... A nice start which should certainly bring the mod in under a grand. I would likely start with a used utility trailer,atape measure, a cutting torch and a MIG.
Of course there may be some reason that such a mod would not be practical but it sounds unlikely.
Sorry, It was not my intention to engineer it completely here, it was meant to be a suggestion worth mentioning.
I do know that if I set out to do it I would...
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:27 PM   #22
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here are some pictures of the Trillium the day that I bought it.

1976 and serial # 1202525
furnace ,dometic 211 fridge,front gaucho
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more pictures 019.jpg   more pictures 016.jpg  

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Old 12-30-2013, 12:07 PM   #23
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how do you post pics
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:39 PM   #24
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how do you post pics
Forums 101 - posting, accounts, basics
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:49 PM   #25
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here are some pictures of the Trillium the day that I bought it.

1976 and serial # 1202525
furnace ,dometic 211 fridge,front gaucho
Craig, I am assuming that the serial number is actually, 13-1202525. This puts it in the 1974 to 1975 range. Just above your pressure regulator, you seem to have the remnants of a date sticker. Is it readable at all?

Your furnace appears to be a Duo-Therm, from the outside vent. The model # would be on a name plate that you can only see when you remove the cover. Does it look like the attached picture of my broken egg?

I was working on the drawing of a 1300 frame last night. should be done soon. I think the frame is different on each of my 1300's. The one I am drawing is the 1977, but I have a 1972 and 1973 as well.
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Old 12-30-2013, 03:39 PM   #26
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Yes David the serial number is 13-1202525 the tag above the regulator is worn off with stone chips however there is a aluminum tag on the side of the trailer down by the wheel that has a date stamp 76/03/23 along with the serial number.Same furnace, same interior green with dark door panel color. I have never had one with a furnace how do you open the door for lighting?Is It on a pivot/hinge that swings to the left?

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Craig, I am assuming that the serial number is actually, 13-1202525. This puts it in the 1974 to 1975 range. Just above your pressure regulator, you seem to have the remnants of a date sticker. Is it readable at all?

Your furnace appears to be a Duo-Therm, from the outside vent. The model # would be on a name plate that you can only see when you remove the cover. Does it look like the attached picture of my broken egg?

I was working on the drawing of a 1300 frame last night. should be done soon. I think the frame is different on each of my 1300's. The one I am drawing is the 1977, but I have a 1972 and 1973 as well.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:31 PM   #27
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The knob is used to pull the front off the furnace. The metal is thin, and it may have rusted on. Maybe try prying it off at the corners, so you don't damage the cover. Later models had a hatch that pulls off. Then there is a small hatch over the pilot light. You will need to loosen two thumb screws, and it will rotate to reveal a hole for lighting the pilot light. Use a lighter to shoot into that hole, then press down on the valve till the pilot light lights. Actually it takes a bit after it lights to heat up the thermocouple, so it will stay on. Then switch to run and adjust the temperature selector to taste.

I'd sure like to see a picture of that tag.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:51 PM   #28
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I will quickly run out and see if my camera will take the picture it is getting dark and VERY cold here ....I will be right back
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The knob is used to pull the front off the furnace. The metal is thin, and it may have rusted on. Maybe try prying it off at the corners, so you don't damage the cover. Later models had a hatch that pulls off. Then there is a small hatch over the pilot light. You will need to loosen two thumb screws, and it will rotate to reveal a hole for lighting the pilot light. Use a lighter to shoot into that hole, then press down on the valve till the pilot light lights. Actually it takes a bit after it lights to heat up the thermocouple, so it will stay on. Then switch to run and adjust the temperature selector to taste.

I'd sure like to see a picture of that tag.
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