Trillium Frame - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-23-2013, 03:32 PM   #1
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Trillium Frame

rebuilding a 1976 Trillium, the frame is rotten does anyone have a auto cad drawing that i could give to the fab shop to start a new frame.
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:42 PM   #2
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If it's a 4500, David Tilston might have what you need- he's got some CAD drawings of the frame posted downpage in the thread at this link. (Post number 31)

You could send him a private message by clicking on his name there...

Good luck
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:12 PM   #3
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Thanks for your help
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:25 AM   #4
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i have put a frame under beachcomber ,for the same reason cracks, whent with a flat ladder type works good and gives me a little better ground clearance. i also put a wider axle and added 18" to the tung it is easier to back up.
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:39 PM   #5
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I am still working on lifting the "box" off of my frame.
I suspect that the frame is looking like a version of "metal swiss cheese".
I am considering adding some length to the back, for a storage box.
Also, add a couple of inches between the axle and frame to get some more clearance.
And, add a bit at the tongue.
I may even get a wider axle to move the wheels outside the trailer. Then add molded fenders. This would give a bit more stability and also a bit more space inside.

The addition, on the tongue, would be used for propane tanks, battery, and a heater.

I am planning to add a "proper" furnace to the rig. I am planning on having the actual heater outside the actual trailer.

However, it has been over a year and the box and trailer are still attached!!!! :-(
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:33 PM   #6
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I got some time off coming up around xmas, with a snowstorm hitting us now the next few days will be spent shoveling snow away from the trailer getting timbers for supporting the body and blocking cut. I will find some time this weekend , to start cutting the old frame bolts and disconnecting the propane lines. I work outside all year long so weather should not be a problem , the snow should be nice and squeaky at -27
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Old 12-06-2013, 04:09 AM   #7
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When you add to the back for storage make sure you add to the front .i did that once .what happens is at higher speed it will speed wobble./ fish tale. the only to fix this is to make the tongue longer.i think it is 60/40 split .60 front based from axle center..i added 20 inches on the front much easier to tow and back up .also the more weight rear of the axle the less stable it is .as for the axle wider is better. i have built around 20 trailer and modified lots more .hope this helps. Mike
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Old 12-06-2013, 04:10 AM   #8
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Name: Mike
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,when i did mine i whent from 13" to 14" tires and made the axle wide enough so i could use front wheel drive wheels from a Oldsmobile ,now i have a large selection to pick from,
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:04 AM   #9
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14" wheels work well on a Trillium.
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:05 PM   #10
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Yes i put 15" on my big foot .and the 14"off the bigfoot i put them on the Trillium better weight load and stability .tows flatter. gives the ball height at about 16" /17" front wheel drive rims have a nagitive off sett of 3 from center .
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:35 PM   #11
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Yes I was thinking of 14" wheels from a ford ranger they are plenty in the auto wreckers. I will be ordering a new axle from Specialty tire here in Winnipeg.They have the custom axles either leaf spring style or rubber torsion style. They have a lot of stuff for trailer mfg ....tires, rims and lights and couplers.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:05 PM   #12
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That will work.
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:02 AM   #13
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If combining a rubber torsion axle with an offset auto wheel, you need to check that the rim will fit over the axle. One guy with a large teardrop tried to fit matching wheels to his Jeep and found that the clearance between the wheel rim and the non-moving end of the trailing arm was small. A sketch I did back then is attached.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:07 AM   #14
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I have not tried the rim swap on the torsion bar style yet .and yes that is a good point.I work mostly with axle and leaf springs . do you know what the offset was on the rim ? I know there are some places on the web where you can get spacers to move the rim outboard to make a positive offset and get the room you need.
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