Trillium Frame Concerns - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-08-2006, 03:37 PM   #15
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Name: Joe
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My 81' Burro has plates welded in the same spot on both sides. Actually 1/4 inch angle iron about 2" wide on each side of the angle. They were formed to fit the shape of the frame ,looks like a pretty good job.
So it looks like the older Burros had the same problem.
pjanits:Same prob on an '81 no less...and mine has lasted since '73! Best not push my luck, and get it done pronto.
I guess a section of angle-iron would take the guesswork out of where to reinforce...sides or just bottom.On a Burro, is the anchor bolt in the same area that you reinforced? How did you deal with that?
Joe
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Old 04-08-2006, 03:40 PM   #16
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I made a 1/4 inch plate like this. Should be fine. I welded along the length and then put a 1 inch stitch above on each end.
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Old 04-08-2006, 05:32 PM   #17
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Joseph,
Mine was done sometime in the past before I owned it. But the angle iron in on the bottom and outside edge of the frame, I don't see where it would interfere with any bolts at all.

Here's a bottom view sort of. Guess I need to paint the frame this year.
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Old 04-08-2006, 05:42 PM   #18
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Side view
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Old 04-08-2006, 07:34 PM   #19
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I made a 1/4 inch plate like this. Should be fine. I welded along the length and then put a 1 inch stitch above on each end.
Colin, if I understand your sketch, your plate positioned vertically on the outside of the frame rail would interfere with the f/g shell on my Trillium; differant frame configuration for your Boler, I guess. Is your frame positioned 2"x4" horizontally or 2"x4" vertically?
Sketch tends to show it horizontal...the Trillium is vertical.
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Old 04-08-2006, 07:40 PM   #20
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Joseph,
Mine was done sometime in the past before I owned it. But the angle iron in on the bottom and outside edge of the frame, I don't see where it would interfere with any bolts at all.

Here's a bottom view sort of. Guess I need to paint the frame this year.
Thanx, pjanits, I think I will go with some adaptation of your angle -iron fix, taylored to the Trillium's frame configuration.

Joe
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Old 04-08-2006, 09:09 PM   #21
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Colin, if I understand your sketch, your plate positioned vertically on the outside of the frame rail would interfere with the f/g shell on my Trillium; differant frame configuration for your Boler, I guess. Is your frame positioned 2"x4" horizontally or 2"x4" vertically?
Sketch tends to show it horizontal...the Trillium is vertical.
The sketch is of the plate welded on the bottom of the frame. Dont need to remove anything.
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:35 AM   #22
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The sketch is of the plate welded on the bottom of the frame. Dont need to remove anything.
Colin...I finally clued in on the location of your reinforcing plate...that final sketch did the trick !!
If I decide to run with a plate loc'n like yours,(bottom surface of frame) the bolt anchoring the f/g shell to the frame will definitely be in the way, being located only about 4" back from front face of the shell; drilling a hole in the plate for the bolt should do the trick.

Joe
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:59 AM   #23
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Joe,
Here is a picture of my Trillium plates that look like they have been there since new. The plate is 24" long and is on both the outside and inside of the frame. It is 3/16 plate.
Good luck,
Rick
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Old 04-09-2006, 10:52 AM   #24
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Joe,
Here is a picture of my Trillium plates that look like they have been there since new. The plate is 24" long and is on both the outside and inside of the frame. It is 3/16 plate.
Good luck,
Rick
Excellant photos, Rick...show the placement of the plates real well.Also shown is the "pocket" on the top surface of the frame, formed at the factory when it was bent into the final shape;that was in fact, THE spot that initially concerned me,and was the main reason for my original posting. Looks like it has held up over the years on its own, as the plate seems to stop short of it.

Thanx,
Joe
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Old 04-09-2006, 12:34 PM   #25
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that diamond shaped plate was a factory repair, from the recall over bad frames .
(to the best of my memory).

my 13 footer had been repaired with one plate on the bottom of the frame with a hole for the mounting bolt to stick through, and one plate on each side, extending about 2-3 inches either side of the dimple in the frame.
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Old 04-09-2006, 01:59 PM   #26
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that diamond shaped plate was a factory repair, from the recall over bad frames .
(to the best of my memory).

my 13 footer had been repaired with one plate on the bottom of the frame with a hole for the mounting bolt to stick through, and one plate on each side, extending about 2-3 inches either side of the dimple in the frame.
Your repair being 3 plates, Joe, do you recall the length of the plate on the bottom, with respect to the mounting bolt...where it started, where it ended?
I don't know about your frame, but mine does a gentle horizontal curve in the area just before the frame reaches the bolt, so I can see having to curve the plate as well.

Joe O
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Old 04-09-2006, 05:29 PM   #27
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Does anyone know if the frame problem effects Trillium 4500's. Mine is a '79 and has the dimple on top and diamond plates welded on the sides. Thanks
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Old 04-09-2006, 06:03 PM   #28
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Does anyone know if the frame problem effects Trillium 4500's. Mine is a '79 and has the dimple on top and diamond plates welded on the sides. Thanks
Dan,
My Trillium (and the pictures above) is a '78 4500 and the frame is solid. Take a small hammer and tap along the bottom of the bend area and listen to the ring of the steel, tap around the side areas to get a sound reference. You can also really give the bottom a wack (ball peen hammer) to see if it dents, that might indicate a rusted out frame rail.
Rick
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