Trillium Hinge Repair - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-13-2012, 06:03 PM   #15
Raz
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Here's a picture of the hinge with the pin driven out. Sorry it's too late to help you but it might help others. You can buy a single hinge from McMaster Carr. Raz
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:01 AM   #16
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Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
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Well, P. Raz, I was inspired by your solution, thought about it for months, and one morning got up, opened the Trillium, ripped back the seam, got out my Multi- tool, a fine point felt pen, sketched on the outline of the cut outs and cut them out in about five minutes. I had to make a second cut to enlarge them somewhat so there'd be no problem fitting in my backing plates. Then I shut up the Trillium for the winter and forgot about it. A week ago, I decided it was time to get moving, opened up the Trillium, re-taped the lining back out of the way, got out the table saw and cut out two backing plates of 5/116" alloy, set an old hinge piece on the plate and centre- punched one for one hole and drilled the tapping size for #10 machine screws, tapped it, screwed in a machine screw to mate the hinge piece to backing plate and then drilled the second, tapped it, put in a second screw and drilled and tapped the third hole. Repeated this for the second hinge, and removed the door and the new hinges I'd put on last summer.

I split the new hinges, door being removed - it took about five minutes, the old self-tapping screws being so loose in their mounting holes and ran a larger than #10 screw diameter drill through the three top holes and slipped in the alloy plate, held a hinge piece in position and screwed in the machine screws loosely and repeated the procedure for the lower hinge piece.

Next, I removed the door side hinge halves, re-assembled the hinges and ran the clearance drill through the holes of the two screw holes closest to the door edge, got out a jack and picked up the door, put it in place in a partly open position- sufficiently open that I could get the machine screws into these two holes top and bottom and put on fender washers, spring washers and nuts, and finger tightened the nuts to get the spring washers starting to bite and hold the nuts and closed the door, moving the jack as the door closed to keep things in position, latched the door and tightened the screws into the alloy plates. Then did the same thing with the two holes on each hinge on the door side tight enough to hold things in place until I could get a ring spanner onto the nuts and hold them while I cranked on the screw driver. I use only Robertson head screws, not because they are a CDN invention, but because they provide an amazing degree of power without the driver slipping. Finally, I ran the original self- tappers back into the third hole top and bottom. I will eventually make up two load-spreading plates of alloy, probably two inch side squares, drill a hole of clearance size in the centre of each plate and drill a hole right through the fibreglass door with an extra-length drill, if needed, and bolt on the long #10 machine screws, finishing with acorn nuts. If I don't do this I will run the long drill through, then use a hole saw, maybe 1 1/4" did to create a hole big enough to slip fender washers and lock washers and nuts and a long body socket and tighten all securely. I like this alternate method better than the alloy plates, so the alloy plates will be a temporary solution only, but I have a habit of letting temporary things carry over. . . .

I have yet to cover up the rectangular holes I sawed to get the alloy plates into the moulding in the interior of the body side of the door/hinges. Think I will simply scrape off the foam from the lining and use some duct tape to hold the pieces of fibreglass I cut out,so I can get in there if I need to in the future. I should also remove the screws one at a time, put on some never-seize compound and run them back in firmly. This wy I will not disturb relative positions of plates and hinges.

I can verify that there was no wood or metal backing behind the fibreglass at all, but possibly some wood forming the raised "boss" that runs down the edge of the door frame and definitely on the two hinge shaped bosses on the door itself. If the Trillium manufacturer had taken the time to embed a metal plate in the 'glass on the inside of the door and the frame, we would not now be suffering the results of pitiful "engineering" practice. Maybe "malpractice" fits into the syntax of that sentence better. Thanks P Raz, you were an inspiration to me.
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:29 PM   #17
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Here is the share of my Trillium door, enclosed with photos of before, during work and after installation. It could be 2 adjacent posts due to many photos. By orderly, first image is door when I bought the Trillium-with 2 door latches and bad alignment b/t top and bottom of left gap-..Including in photos is the spraying bottle of rubber-seal I used it for.." Belly band" before putting back black moulding..All photos are taken by Iphone, sorry ab quality...
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:45 PM   #18
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RANDY, There are probably as many door problems and solutions as there are owners!Your alignment, in terms of the centre line/belly band is quite good, even before you started, your hinges were probably carelessly fitted! So, your Trillium is probably a mid week manufacture, whereas mine is so far out- low low, low, that it is surely a Friday afternoon job. Late Friday afternoon. The best solution to my door fitment would be either a new door with no belly band/moulding, or serious grinding, filling and sanding and re-painting! When I win the Lotto, I'll have Airstream build me an alu door with screen door attached.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:29 AM   #19
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Kenneth, I'm glad my post helped. That's what the forum is for. In regard to the door fit, the original Trillium molds were off and so getting a perfect fit is impossible. Even the early "new" Trilliums like mine are misaligned. Note the band on the door to the left of the latch doesn't line up with the band on the trailer. I was told they have since corrected the defect in the mold. Raz
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:37 AM   #20
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I guessed this was so, Raz, after observing a number of them ; even the rebuilt ones at the Calgary factory had the misalignment. And yes, the later model door does solve the problem with its flatter profile. Also, the trailing edge of my door is parallel to the frame, but the lower half of the leading edge is almost touching the frame in the latched position. One day I will take my grinder to it! The vertical curve is a little off too. And my door seems almost too small for the hole, particularly in height. I wonder if the Escape door fits the Trillium!? What is your year model? Mine is a 1980 with latest CDN model windows on front and sides. Wish I'd put in the latest window at the rear, now it is too late! Did you put the cut-out pieces back in in a removable manner or did you use some alu sheet metal and fix with a couple of small self tappers or contact cement? My plan was to use duct tape to hold mine in place, but I'm now thinking about some Home Depot alu sheet available in a roll , think I've got some somewhere, and simply fix that in place before I pull the lining back over and contact cement it.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:24 PM   #21
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Well, the alu sheet used for gutters won out. Aviation snips made quick work of it, and this stuff is so soft that I hand bent it to conform with interior door frame. I brushed on some contact cement to the metal and FG surfaces and after it had tacked, I pressed the hinge covers into place. A couple of self tappers finished the job. Tomorrow I will brush on some contact cement to the back of the lining and the area of 'glass I pealed it back from and so finish this pain in the butt job. Next comes brake conversion from surge to 10" electrics. And my wife asks, "When are you going to do the floor covering?" This asking is rather like an Imperial command, actually, but it is a year overdue, so I guess she has a valid point. Floor, then brakes, I guess.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:55 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
Next comes brake conversion from surge to 10" electrics.


I've never heard of a Trillium with surge brakes- what year/model is it?

Francesca
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:12 PM   #23
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Francesca, it is a 1980 model, and I don't know the original specs. What I do know is that a previous owner had the axle raised about two inches to increase ground clearance, possibly for going off highway into lakes areas, or for hunting. This owner probably modified the tongue and set it up for surge brakes. They will be leaving the trailer, and the frame will be modified at the tongue to put the hitch in a straight line with the frame, rather than being upset 3 inches. I like the increased ground clearance, it makes the trailer look less like a toy!
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:13 PM   #24
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Must confess, I did not finish the job today! It was my wife's 65th birthday, and other, more pleasant things prevailed.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:20 AM   #25
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But I did get it "finished" (is it ever finished??) today, it being a hot day, and great for brushing on contact cement to the surfaces and pulling the lining back into place. The door fit is lousy, but you know all about that; that said, Raz, your door fit is fantastic, if that pic is of your Trillium. What year is it? I don't care so much about the belly band misalignment as much as I care about the proximity of the leading lower edge of the door and its frame, and I will either relief grind or loosen all hinge screws and try to force the door away from that edge.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:21 AM   #26
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Mine is a 2010 California made Trillium. As far as the door fit, I taped the door in place doing my best to keep the crack even, set one hinge and then using a stick with two nails in it, set the second hinge.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:14 AM   #27
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2010!!!!! It's almost still in the womb! And your door was already giving problems!? Ah yes, the stick with two nails AKA Precision tool. My saga will continue, but probably not until the fall, unless the bolts loosen, as I'd have to pull the lining back again and remove the cover-plates to get to the lock nuts. I'll try adjusting the door side of the hinges, most likely.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:24 PM   #28
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Interesting posts and solutions. I think my door sag is finally taken care of. Looks 98% better. Repair guys just re-drilled the bottom hinge holes to move the door up and center it better. Now the door closes much easier and and be opened and closed easily from the inside. Next question will be if it stays closed during travel. No issue with that getting it home so I'm hopeful. Cost me 4 hours labor at $89 per hour. No I didn't get kissed.
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