Trillium Hinge Source Rediscovered - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 01-02-2012, 09:22 AM   #15
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Mike Magee's Avatar
Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Posts: 4,523
I had read sometime back that curved FG doors can lose their curve sometimes as they age. Could that have happened to yours, Wanderer? Not that the cause matters, as it still needs a cure and you sound like you have a good one in mind.

To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven... --Ecclesiastes 3
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:17 AM   #16
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
Mike,that could be so, though my 'glass sailboats never lost their curves! ;-) But then there is the shoddy workmanship of the door aperture.I don.t know how these units were laid up, but too often , in the boat industry it is a chopper gun, and not ofte hand lay-up, and people with no qualifications to do anything less ugly to pay the rent who end up with the unenviable job, sadly. I think the placement of the hinges is too far apart for the curve. Look at a Airstream and you find that the hinges are quite close together, and so should ours be.

Min, email me at and we can exchange addresses! Maybe you are the Trillium with the huge white tarp we walk past each day on our walking route!

My next door neighbour is a trailer/custom old car nut, and he rebuilt a Surfside to tow behind his '55 Chev and his early 30's Hudson coupe. We talk and do trailer stuff frequently, and he is a fund of knowledge and help. His bro in law, also a custom car nut had his little rig down from the Interior this past fall,a Little Chief, or Boler, produced in Kamloops, I think, and the moulds were widened a foot, and maybe lengthened that much too, not sure. I mention this modified trailer because the quality of finish is extremely high, and it has extensive overhead oak cabinet, but that is incidental to this discussion. He made a point of saying, "NOTICE THE DOOR- IT IS SET IN." It was a regular all alu. framed flat set back camper door. I was surfing the web some time after this when I found a page for a company that is producing Trilliums, possibly in Cali. or up in the BC interior, and this 13' Trillium also had full oak cabinetry and a set back alu door and frame. I mention this because one of you guys is threatening to do something drastic to your Trillium door! I will try to rediscover this web page.

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Old 01-02-2012, 10:24 AM   #17
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
Sorry about the couple of typos, but my Cocker is sleeping on my lap and she resents my rather cold MacBook Air's weight on her back, but will not move! I'm also scared to hit the EDIT button in case I can't find the POST REPLY button after corrections. Does it remain at the bottom?
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:46 AM   #18
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Name: Gord
Trailer: Recently purchased an original 13' Trillium, that still needs a name!
British Columbia
Posts: 94
Hi Wanderer.

No that one is not mine. I don't know where it even is.

Mine is under a cobbled together shelter in the backyard. Might be hard to see from the street.

But, I am definitely considering, OK I have decided, to modify the shell to accommodate a "straight" door. This would have the advantage of making it easier to add a screen door.

The door mod. won't be that much. Since I plan on getting rid of the belly band, fixing the 6" puncture/crack in the roof, adding a larger roof vent, eliminating the depressions in the roof itself, modifying the front to a dinette, changing the axle, etc.

Crap!! I could have just built a new trailer!!!
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:37 AM   #19
Name: Kenneth
Trailer: Casita 17 Freedom DeLuxe
British Columbia
Posts: 78
I have a rule: Any mod/repair must be done in such a way that the trailer can still be used as is, or next day!
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:09 AM   #20
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Name: Frederick
Trailer: Fiber Stream
Posts: 8,125
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Post Edit screen view

Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
I'm also scared to hit the EDIT button in case I can't find the POST REPLY button after corrections. Does it remain at the bottom?
Once you open the EDIT window and make your corrections, there will be a SAVE button near the bottom of the window toward the left, and a CANCEL button toward the right.
Frederick - The Scaleman
1978 Fiber Stream 16 named "Eggstasy" & 1971 Compact Jr. named "Boomerang"
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:07 AM   #21
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 4,853
A summary of sources for Trillium Door Hinges

Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
... they are available for about $52 each + shipping. The McMaster Carr part number is 1276A52.
Originally Posted by Wanderer View Post
I got mine from Outback in Calgary, at over 100 bucks for the pair.
And Outback gives the price in a reply to an email from Outback in Calgary.
Originally Posted by Outback builder
I sent and email back I have them in stock there $159. Just give me a call for a credit number. 1-403-272-3939.
Link to Outback parts.

From this thread
Rodre gives the Kason Part number
Originally Posted by Rodre View Post
I contacted Kason Canada and this is what I got back:
Part# 10139000016 and your cost is $267.35 per pair. Seems a little pricey to me.

I know I spent about $200 for a pair here in Toronto from a commercial refrigeration place. (I broke a hinge just before we were to leave on a scheduled trip.) I had to go to Kason just north of the city to pick them up. Once there - the worker in the shipping department said they will sometimes sell them out the back door for cash for much less.

Tom from Trillium RV states on his parts page in June 2012:
The following items are in stock:
Kason #139 door hinges, 3/8″ offset

For 1300 & 4500 models, sold in pairs. $95.00
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:25 PM   #22
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Name: Rod
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 1300
British Columbia
Posts: 166
Post Trillium Door Hinge Repair a la Rodre

For what it's worth I ended up buying mine from Trillium RV in Cali (Tom). I figured after the 2 other prices $95 was a deal, besides, we need to keep Tom in business for future parts, advice, etc. I was, and am, willing to pay the $31 dollar difference, even now that I know they can be had for $54, Besides, I usually buy other stuff from him too at the same time.

I replaced mine for cosmetic reasons mostly, and because I figured when I put them back I was going to make sure they lasted my life time.

It was actually quite easy and ended up being a solid job. I drilled out the holes progressively bigger until rotted wood dust stopped coming out. I then glued and pounded in some dowels and let that dry overnight. I then put a small bead of 3M 4200 around the holes on the backside of the hinges, then screwed them in with stainless steel screws dipped in 3M 5200. Just before the screw went all the way in I put a drop of the 5200 underneath the screw head to seal it to the hinge and potentially stop water getting in or backing ot from road vibration. I figured that if water could not find it's way in then the wood should not rot again. The 4200 is also a marine grade adhesive as well as a sealant, so it will help stick the hinge to the body as well and give it strength that way. I have used the door quite a bit since and it is solid.

If I ever had to do it again, or, if the wood behind is completely rotted, what I would do is ever so patiently peel the ensolite from the inside door hinge area and drill holes from the outside to the inside through where the fold of fiberglass holds the wood the hinges were previously screwed into. Then I would get some long stainless steel T-Nuts, probably about an inch or so in length, and use machine screws and loctite and screw the hinges through the wood through to the T-Nuts, then use contact cement and lay the ensolite back down. If the wood blocks in the door are rotted you could use the same method and at least the T-nuts on the inside of the door would look factoryish.

I had a fiberglass guy with 30 years of solid experience look at the door frame and what he told me that the problem is with the door is the 90 degree angles from the outside body going inward, providing the frame for the door to rest. He said that fiberglass needs a more gradual curve to tolerate the impact of opening and then sometimes slamming the door against the frame, otherwise it would be prone to crack. It makes sense that at least the gel coat would crack.


I am a Trilliumaire - I can go camping anytime, any place, anywhere.
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