Trillium refridgerator issues. - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-25-2011, 02:56 PM   #1
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Name: Nicole
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300
Posts: 7
Question Trillium refridgerator issues.

Our refridgerator works on propane, but it doesn't seem to be working 12V or 110V. Does anyone know what the issue could be?

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Old 07-25-2011, 03:09 PM   #2
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Francesca Knowles's Avatar
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Hi, Nicole

If you've got it "switched" to 110 or 12v and it doesn't power up, it could be fuses...
My 12v fuses are in the 12v line that feeds the fridge.
I'd try a 110v test first, though:
Have you tried plugging the fridge in to 110 directly?
By this I mean, look inside the outside access door and you'll see that the fridge is plugged in to a 110v outlet inside the compartment.
Unplug it and plug it in to an extension cord to 110 power.
Give it some time before you decide whether it's cooling or not.
If it works by this method, you probably have a trailer wiring problem.

Hope this helps!


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Old 07-25-2011, 05:07 PM   #3
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
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Originally Posted by Nicole D View Post
Our refridgerator works on propane, but it doesn't seem to be working 12V or 110V. Does anyone know what the issue could be?

I wouldn't worry about 12volt operation. It's non-practical mode.
as 120Volt operation most likely you've got a blown fuse or circuit breaker.
It's also possible that you have a burned out 120Volt heating element.
If it was me I'd just use on propane and forget about electric modes.
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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Old 07-25-2011, 06:21 PM   #4
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Trailer: Trillium
Posts: 712
remember it will take as long or longer on 12 or 120 volt for your fridge to cool down
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:11 AM   #5
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Name: Lanny
Trailer: 77 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 24
I am having the same issues and know this so far: I don't believe the 110v side is fuzed. If you unplug the 110 cord from the outlet, plug something else into the outlet to check for voltage there (much quicker answer than plugging the fridge into another source and waiting for it to cool). If you have a Dometic RM211, there is a wiring block on the lower left side of the fridge accessible from the back. Inside the removable cover is a blue wire with a fuze holder for the 12v side. With this cover removed, you can test both elements of the heater. Mine is burned out on the 110v side. The 12v side tests good, but I have never had the 12v operation cool very well. It is mostly for maintainence while traveling and will not cool as well. You've probably heard before that the fridge should be cold and all items placed inside should be cold prior to switching to 12v for travel. My delima is the discontiniuation of the heating element. I am now looking for a suitable substitute. If your element tests good, then you could have a switch issue, as these are know to be a trouble area also. If you are not sure how to test the element, post here again and I'll offer some tips. It only requires an ohm meter. If you don't have that, then you will need a technician. Now I'm on to posting a request for used parts. Wish me luck
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:59 PM   #6
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Name: Nicole
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 1300
Posts: 7
Thanks for the info. Good luck in your search!

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