On the wood... use the awl... compare the firmness to a piece
of similar wood you have on hand... generally I would say if
the plywood is not soft and has not delaminated it is probably OK.
Mine was quit dark gray to black and it seemed to work OK as
it was not dry rotted.
Kitchen window... you have to drill out the rivets. I used my table say to
cut some backing strips to put behind where the rivets were drilled so
screws could be used on reassembly. Of course, you could reinstall using
On my trailer I removed all the windows
including the one in the door.
The caulking around the windows
was over 30 years old so I figured it would
be best to do it all. While I was at it I reset the roof vent. I bought new
plastic channel to recover the screw heads as some of the the old stuff
cracked when i pulled it off.
When you get ready to reinstall the windows use plenty of butyl tape.
I doubled it to get plenty of sqeeze-out... it is not very expensive.
The butyl will keep coming out from around the frame for a day or two.
Hint... make sure the tape is warm when you use it... I put it out in the sun
or on top of the dashboard of my truck in the sun to make sure it is quite
soft. I like to get it to the stage where the paper tape between the layers
of the butyl tape just starts to stick... It can be a tad difficult to unroll
sometimes but it is worth the effort, in my opinion. Alternatively, you could
put the tape on the window frames and then warm the whole thing up
to get the tape soft. Ensure that the surfaces of the window frames and
the exterior of the trailer are very clean. I use denatured alcohol to clean
before installation. I find it preferable as it it is not as toxic as many other
The above procedure was taught to me by my neighbor who ran
an RV repair business for over 20 years and is a wealth of information. Since
he had to warranty his work he used some overkill but found it better than a
call back for no pay.
Hope this helps.