Trillium Window Removal - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-30-2011, 12:14 PM   #29
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Pictures?

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Originally Posted by AlbertaBound View Post
We just did the same thing. When we tightened the screws the window seemed to bow upwards on the bottom. I thought the windows were too tight. Anyone have any thoughts on that? Windows being too tight???

Hello,

Do you have any pictures?
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:36 PM   #30
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I'd do some research on how well the plastic/composite material can "hold" screws. My experience is that screws easily loosen when put into plastic. Since the trailer has lots of "bumps" and vibration, and the windows depend on good grip in the wood/plastic trim, I might think twice about this.

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This is the possible wood replacement stuff I was talking about:

Never Rot Exterior Mouldings and Trim | Royal Building Products

Wouldn't mind getting your guys thoughts on it.

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Old 12-24-2011, 07:26 AM   #31
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This thread is a wealth of information! Going to pick my first fiberglass camper a 1977 13' Tril next week. They said it's been re-sealed which makes me wonder - why?
The mention of "if it's been resealed, there was probably signs of leakage" makes me wonder.....
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:30 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itlives View Post
This thread is a wealth of information! Going to pick my first fiberglass camper a 1977 13' Tril next week. They said it's been re-sealed which makes me wonder - why?
The mention of "if it's been resealed, there was probably signs of leakage" makes me wonder.....
A 33 year old trailer would need to be resealed even if it never leaked. Butyl and appropriate caulk doesn't last forever... it could (hopefully) be a maintenance issue rather than a former leak issue.

Best of luck!
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Old 12-24-2011, 02:38 PM   #33
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Just completed removing window number 4 (one more to go).

Here's what I learned about removal:
* there a good video on youtube: http://youtu.be/eTJGO6iXuVw
These windows are mounted just a bit different than the trillium's. But you get the idea.
* I found that the best way to pull out the window was from the outside, top first.
* this was very difficult, and I did apply a bit of prying leverage between the window
and the inside wood frame (covered with ensolite).
* I had a bunch of rusted out screws. The screws were the robertson (square head) type.
I had to use my dremel to cut a fresh groove into the rusted screw heads, then use a slotted screw driver to get these out.

Definitely mold and moisture around the window frame in places.
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:12 AM   #34
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There IS something I had not considered when I redid my windows which some of you might be interested in: I don't remember the exact details but I read there could be a potential long-term problem having stainless steel screws in permanent contact with aluminium, due to some sort of galvanic reaction between the two metals. Perhaps someone with more info, a link to an old thread, or real-world experience on this could chime-in.

But I'm thinking that something as simple as using thin rubber washers may very well solve the problem.

I really like the idea of using something other than wood for the inside frame, though if I had to do it over, I would probably just coat the wood pieces with fiberglass resin or epoxy.
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Old 12-27-2011, 01:46 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel V. View Post
There IS something I had not considered when I redid my windows which some of you might be interested in: I don't remember the exact details but I read there could be a potential long-term problem having stainless steel screws in permanent contact with aluminium, due to some sort of galvanic reaction between the two metals. Perhaps someone with more info, a link to an old thread, or real-world experience on this could chime-in.

But I'm thinking that something as simple as using thin rubber washers may very well solve the problem.

I really like the idea of using something other than wood for the inside frame, though if I had to do it over, I would probably just coat the wood pieces with fiberglass resin or epoxy.

There are concerns with aluminum and stainless steel being in direct contact with each other. Think of it as a small battery. Aluminum by nature acts as an anode. Stainless steel acts as a cathode. You need an electrolyte solution to get current flowing. In this case rain water could act as the electrolyte. If you live close to the ocean, salt water can act as a very good electrolyte. The current that is generated is what causes the corrosion.

Fortunately, if you have a larger anode (the aluminum window frame) than cathode (the SST screws) the concern is still there, but, is greatly less. If you were to attach a large SST metal sheet to something outside using aluminum rivets, the rivets would corrode very fast, especially if you lived by the ocean.

The washers would limit the contact area between the frame and the screws and would certainly be a cheap, easy solution for peace of mind.

Spanke
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:02 PM   #36
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Fred,

I just began removing windows from my '77 Trill 1300. I'm not sure if our windows are the same, but I did try removing them top first as you did, with dismal results. Mine wanted to come out bottom first. I simply loosened up the ensolite from the bottom flanges, pried the windows up a bit and they pulled out from the bottom rather easily.

I don't know what this says about differences in construction techniques year to year in Trilliums, but I suspect Installer A may have done it a bit differently from Installer B, and one simply needs to poke around a bit to find the best way to get them out.

I was not very impressed with the seal job these windows had. I have no way of knowing if they had been redone at some point. The sealant was fairly dry, certainly not elastic and definitely not adhesive. It reminds me of plain old putty tape, not butyl.

I intend to replace all the plywood backing strips, and was wondering myself about using "plastic" wood, like deck boards. Has anyone here tried this?
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:57 AM   #37
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I intend to replace all the plywood backing strips, and was wondering myself about using "plastic" wood, like deck boards. Has anyone here tried this?
I have not begun to remove my windows yet, but before I paint, they are coming out. I have a small bit of rot, and I know it will spread.

I think I will use either stainless steel, or aluminum angle iron on the inside. With stainless nuts and bolts. Nylon washers make sense.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:21 AM   #38
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Dave,

I finished removing all the windows. The plywood doesn't look to be the best quality, and I do have some rot, especially in the lower corners of the rear window, so I'm just going to replace it all. I guess I'm a bit concerned about screws working loose in plastic wood, so I think I will stick to plywood, but will use a better grade than the original, and maybe I will seal it.

If you use stainless or aluminum angle will you have to get creative in reattaching the Ensolite?
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:32 AM   #39
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If you use stainless or aluminum angle will you have to get creative in reattaching the Ensolite?
I was thinking Styrofoam, or some other closed cell foam, to fill in the gap that was filled by the wood. It would also cover the Nylock nuts, and keep it from frosting up the inside of the Ensolite.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #40
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Window drip strip

I have a trillium 5500. The grey flexible drip strips that slide into a metal strip over the top of the jalousie windows has become brittle and broken. They all need to be replaced. We have been unable to locate replacement strips. Is there a source for new ones or can something be modified to fit?
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:33 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by jim in os View Post
I have a trillium 5500. The grey flexible drip strips that slide into a metal strip over the top of the jalousie windows has become brittle and broken. They all need to be replaced. We have been unable to locate replacement strips. Is there a source for new ones or can something be modified to fit?
Here is one source that has the strips for at the top of the windows:

http://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome_...ProductID=4095

If you need other rubber window pieces you might also try:

Interstate RV Metal & Supply

The 009-097 fits at the top and the 009-289 fits between the individual glass panes.

Spanke
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:16 PM   #42
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Sandblasting

Didn't see anyone respond to your query about a place where you can do your own sandblasting of your brake drums

U-Blast on the Langley by-pass is the place I use.

They have blasting cabinets and humongous compressors, choice of many blast media and charge by the hour. Excellent service
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