Trillium Window Removal - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-21-2008, 10:26 AM   #1
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I've been reading past posts about leaks and have been wondering about the actual mechanics of removing windows from a 13' Trillium... each post I've seen (so far) that mentions removing windows does not elaborate on the actual steps required to remove said windows.

At this point, my best guess is that I will find screws of some sort under the black strips attached to the aluminum window frame. My (gentle) prodding at these strips seems to indicate they are quite stiff (being a cold day probably didn't help matters), and deciding to take the cautious route, I ceased prodding and resolved to ask before actually breaking something.

So, do these strips actually come/off out easily? (should the be warmed first?)

Are they reusable or will I need to source replacements?

What will I find lurking under the strips? (what should I be careful to look for?)

Will I need to make any arrangements to the window area from INSIDE the trailer before removing a window?

Will I need extra bodies (hands) to remove the windows once I get past the actual releasing them from their bondage to the trailer?

Installation (after a thorough cleaning/refurbishment of the window opening) with butyl tape and stainless fasteners seems to be the consensus from what I've read. (I will now think twice before reaching for the silicon sealer...)

What am I fogetting to ask...

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:36 AM   #2
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Surfsides/Trilliums are based on the same mould and have similar windows. One thing I have heard consistently is a.) replace the screws holding the windows with stainless steel ones and b.) use Butyl tape for the window sealant.

There is a discussion on replacing surfside windows here
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:45 PM   #3
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Trailer: '74 Trillium 1300
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Quote:
I've been reading past posts about leaks and have been wondering about the actual mechanics of removing windows from a 13' Trillium... each post I've seen (so far) that mentions removing windows does not elaborate on the actual steps required to remove said windows.
I second the motion for stainless steel and butyl tape. I also suggest staying away from caulking material. The plastic strip covering the screws is most likely brittle by now and will probably break when you pull it off so you should consider replacing it altogether - ask for Hehr-style screw cover strips at your local RV dealer (via the Atlas supplier). The old screws can be fairly easily removed with a power screwdriver however some of them may be rusted-in and will break when you try pulling them out. There are also wooden pieces behind the window (which the screws go into) that should be inspected - they may be rotten (I replaced all of mine). The aluminium window itself isn't that heavy and can be handled by one person - the key is to remove the screens, open the windows a bit, and take your time.
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:18 PM   #4
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the plastic strips ARE readily available at Meridian mobile. I'd shy away from a power screw driver to remove old screws, too easy to break them off. Two bodies (4 hands) are always better for any chores. Do NOT use silicon chalk, I did (not on my windows) and now I'm sorta regretting it and definately replace screws with stainless.... will we see you on May 10th @ The Fort campground???
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Old 04-21-2008, 05:50 PM   #5
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the plastic strips ARE readily available at Meridian mobile. I'd shy away from a power screw driver to remove old screws, too easy to break them off. Two bodies (4 hands) are always better for any chores. Do NOT use silicon chalk, I did (not on my windows) and now I'm sorta regretting it and definately replace screws with stainless.... will we see you on May 10th @ The Fort campground???
Booker, Daniel, Doug - thanks for these replies. I will be very careful with the powered screw driver as I have indeed quickly snapped heads off screws in the past when a slow, thoughtful job with a manual driver would likely have done the job. It's good to know the plastic strips are easily available too.

I don't know if we'll make it to the Fort campground for the gathering, a lot of things on the go between now and mid-June.

Again, thanks.
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:50 PM   #6
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DAVID.....THATS M A Y!!! NOT June!!!! May 9/11 at The Fort!!! EIGHTEEN SLEEPS........
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Old 04-22-2008, 01:20 PM   #7
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There are also wooden pieces behind the window (which the screws go into) that should be inspected - they may be rotten (I replaced all of mine).
Would you happen to have the measurements for the wood? I need to replace the rotten wood in my front window, and I would like to have it cut before I start the job. When I had the side window out it never occured to me to measure the wood.

Thanks.
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Old 04-22-2008, 08:32 PM   #8
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Would you happen to have the measurements for the wood?
Well, let's see... in my Trillium the wooden strips were about 2" wide or so. The larger window has two pieces of about 52" long across the top and bottom, and two shorter pieces of about 22" on each side. They are made out of 3/4" plywood with one side cut at an angle (makes smoother edges for the ensolite around the frame). The exact length of each piece can vary a bit from one window to the other, so I would suggest not making the final cuts until you measure your old frame.


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Old 04-23-2008, 12:27 PM   #9
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They are made out of 3/4" plywood
Thank You!

At least now i don't have to pull out the window, then go to lumber yard, I can have 3/4" wood at the ready.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:26 AM   #10
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Re-sealing the windows in my Trillium 1300

Hello,

I have started the window re-seal process on my Trillium 1300 windows. I have thus far exrtracted and cleaned one of my side dinette windows and obtained butyl tape and stainless steel screws. These are my hints:

For butyl tape the best place I found to get it at a reasonable price is:

Go-West RV Center at $9+change for a fair sized roll (not sure how many feet yet, but definitely much larger then what I found at other places.

For the stainless steel screws I recommend getting them at:

Pacific Fasteners - Home as I was able to pickup 180 pieces for about $9 vs. getting 6 pieces to a pack at Home Depot for $2.65. Shame on you Home Depot, that is a $70 difference!

Now my questions are:
  1. The wood window frame *looks* like it is in good shape, I don't see any water stains except for one spot and it doesn't feel soft or look rotted. I am by no means an expert, how can I tell? What am I looking for that will help me decide if I should replace the frames? The putty around the windows was in great shape as it was still soft and pliable. Are there any experts that are in the Vancouver Lower Mainland area that care to come down and have a look? If you help me with mine I am more than happy to help you with yours.
  2. The screws appear to be #8 3/4" screws. If I am going to re-use the existing wood frames and hence the same screw holes should I be using slighly larger screws? Is there such thing as a #9 3/4" screw? Or is #10 3/4 the next size up? Obviously I dunno much about screws...
  3. The kitchen window has rivets on the sides and screws on the top and bottom, do I need to remove the rivets to get the window out? What is the degree of difficulty? Anyone know the rivet size?
My bellyband also needs to have a bead of some kind of sealant applied to the top of it. I have a horrible hand for this kind of work. Again, if there is anyone in the Vancouver Lower Mainland area that is great at caulking I would be more than happy to help you with your trailer if you can help me with this. If you are awesome at it and don't need help with your trailer I would be happy to pay for this service. I personally think people who are good at caulking stuff should leave a stack of business cards next to the job. I see good jobs from time to time but when I ask around for someone to do the caulking on my various projects everyone I ask seems to be reluctant and the guy I end up with tends to do a terrible job. I always look at it and think "I could have done better than that!".

One last thing: I need to get my brake drums sand blasted and painted with heat resistant paint because the rims I bought are pretty open and expose much of the brake drum. I took the drums off the trailer, removed the bearings and seals and clean all the grease off of them and took them down to an autobody place. They wanted $355 to sandblast and paint the hubs for me. This seemed a little high to me, does anyone know a place that I can take these to and get this done? Again, if this is a service you can provide I am willing to barter with you, pay you a reasonable price, or help you with yours. For $355 I might as well buy an air compressor with a sandblasting and spray attachment and do it myself and have these around for when I get to the frame. PM me if interested. Thanks!

~Rodre
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:30 PM   #11
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Hi Rod,
Wood is cheap; if you're already in there I'd replace it. The wood I pulled out of mine was A, rotted and B, a pretty cheap, high void ply. I replaced mine with a high grade, low void, birch ply.
I think screws are even #'s, never heard of a #9.
As far as the belly band goes, I was tired of the band-aids and just finished up the project of eliminating mine. Ripped it off, ground the glass to "below grade", glassed it in, sanded it flush and fair, primed, painted. Looks like it should have from the factory; nonexistant. I'll post an extensive how- to in the next couple days, with pics. It's not rocket science!
Good luck.
Scott
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott H View Post
Hi Rod,
Wood is cheap; if you're already in there I'd replace it. The wood I pulled out of mine was A, rotted and B, a pretty cheap, high void ply. I replaced mine with a high grade, low void, birch ply.
Scott
Hello Scott,

Thanks for your reply. Is the wood around the window frame "glassed in"? How is it held in place, just by the ensolite? My main problem is that I don't really have a saw or workshop area for that matter to do it in, so that is why I am avoiding doing it if possible. It seems that every time I take simple things to a shop to get done they want an arm/leg/blood/firstborn to do simple jobs. If I decide to go this route does it make any sense for me to put treated plywood in? How did you arrive to the choice of the high grade, low void, birch ply? Thanks for all the info!

Oh, BTW, if I just re-use the existing frames should I use #10 screws?

Oh, and, and if I like the look of the bellyband can I get the seam filled in with fiberglass to stop the leaks and then have bellyband re-installed? Or would what is left of the rivets get in the way?

~Rod

~Rod
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Old 05-19-2011, 03:44 PM   #13
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Rod,
The wood is held in place by the same screws that are holding the window in, it's the back side of the sandwich. The ensolite may keep it from moving around but it's not structural. I used the birch ply cause I had it laying around. AC (I think that's what it's called) is low void, less expensive option. No tools? I would see if I could find some 2" x .75" hardwood, cut it to length by hand, and round one corner by hand so the ensotite wraps over it smoothly.
I think I used #8's but cant remember. What fits through the holes in the widow frame best?
Belly band? Yes, Gumpit just did something similar. Do a search, it was fairly recent.
Scott
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:07 PM   #14
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Name: Larry H
Trailer: Trillium
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Reinstalling Trillium Windows

Hello,

When I did my Trill 1300 windows a couple of years ago
I found that the plywood looked like it had been wet many times...
but it was not rotted out. I believe they used 'marine' ply when
manufacturing the trailer. I had some trouble with some of the
screws stripping out when the windows were reinstalled. So I used
the old carpenter trick... before I put the windows in I stuck a wood
glue dipped wooden match stick in each hole in the plywood through
the mounting holes in the fiberglass. The next day I ran a razor knife
between the fiberglass skin and the interior plywood strips to cut the
match sticks off fairly flush with the backin plywood strips. Then, I
was quite careful reinstalling the windows to avoid stripping out the
screws from the plywood backing using a electric screwdriver but doing
the final tightening by hand. This process worked well with the
windows being quite snug and no more leads!

GL Larry H
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