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07-20-2012, 05:29 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: UHaul CT13 TV: Escape Hybrid
SE Michigan
Posts: 4,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
I have to let you know that I completely rewired the Trillium. I put in a new Converter, new Battery and new Distribution Center. I'll draw up what I have done and post it. Maybe then you will have a better idea what I did and did not do right.
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Yea, sounds like a polarity is reversed some where.
__________________
Just call me Tom.
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07-23-2012, 04:06 PM
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#16
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Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 39
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I have drawn up what I have done to the wiring of the trailer. When the Shore Power and Tow Vehicle are plugged in at the same time you will see that I blow 2 fuses and one of the fuse holder and wires. If you have any suggestions I will gladly accept them.  NOW if I can only figure out how to insert a image?
Trillium Wiring Renovation.jpg
Views: 30
Size: 162.5 KB
ID: 49161" style="margin: 2px" />
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07-23-2012, 06:00 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: UHaul CT13 TV: Escape Hybrid
SE Michigan
Posts: 4,004
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Alex,
When you say two fuses blow, do you mean the one at the tip of the red arrow and the circled one? These are in series.
Does this happen only when the refrigerator is running on 12 volts?
__________________
Just call me Tom.
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07-23-2012, 08:16 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 3,148
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What size are the 2 fuses that keep blowing?
What new converter did you put in?
What do you have on the TV end of the 12V? A solenoid, isolator or circuitbreaker?
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07-23-2012, 09:44 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13'
Oregon
Posts: 3,760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
I have drawn up what I have done to the wiring of the trailer. When the Shore Power and Tow Vehicle are plugged in at the same time you will see that I blow 2 fuses and one of the fuse holder and wires. If you have any suggestions I will gladly accept them.  NOW if I can only figure out how to insert a image?
Attachment 49161
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The converter is attempting to charge your battery and/or provide some of the cranking power to start the tow vehicle. Simple answer like if it hurts when you do that, don't do it. If the fuses blow when shore power and the tow are connected don't connect them both at the same time.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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07-24-2012, 07:13 AM
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#20
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Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 39
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Yes, the fuses indicated by the read circle and arrow. When the Frig is on 12V both fuses (circled 10ams and arrow 5amps) blow but the 10am fuse and holder burns up. When the Frig is NOT running only the 5amp fuse blows.
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07-24-2012, 07:16 AM
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#21
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Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 39
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The fuses are 5amp and the distrabution center and 10 amp at the other end of the 12v wire. I do not have a TV or isalator. The converter is a 50amp WFC that I got from a 33ft 5th Wheel trailer. The gentleman was upgrading to a 80amp converter.
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07-24-2012, 07:19 AM
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#22
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Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
The converter is attempting to charge your battery and/or provide some of the cranking power to start the tow vehicle. Simple answer like if it hurts when you do that, don't do it. If the fuses blow when shore power and the tow are connected don't connect them both at the same time.
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I know what your saying but it happens usually by mistake. My daughter forgot to take off the tow vehicle plug because she did not need the tow vehicle while in the campground. I blew a fuse trying to test the light and also forgot to disconnect the tow vehicle plug thus blowing the 5amp fuse with the frig off.
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07-24-2012, 07:27 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: UHaul CT13 TV: Escape Hybrid
SE Michigan
Posts: 4,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
I know what your saying but it happens usually by mistake. .....
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I think Byron is correct - the tow vehicle (TV) is drawing power off the trailer when starting. The solution is either a relay wired so that it only contacts when the engine is running or an solid state isolator (not preferred due to voltage drop).
Amazon.com: Stinger 80 Amp Battery Relay Isolator: Automotive
Wire it to a circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on - like the radio.
__________________
Just call me Tom.
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07-24-2012, 07:32 AM
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#24
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Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
By the way Roy, I see that Princess Auto has put the LED Tail Lights on Sale again at $39.00. I'll be going down there on Tuesday to pickup a set.
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I went to Princess Auto today (July 24, 2012) and purchased the LED trailer lights that are on sale for $39.99 regularly $79.99. Now the real task begins. Now that it is not too hot I will work on it today. I noticed that the small LED lights are still not on sale. So, Roy you will have to wait a little longer to put them next the the larger LED tail lights.
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07-24-2012, 07:48 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 3,148
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Alex,
The 2 fuses that keep blowing are the only fuses between all 3 sources of power.
The manual for the Dometic RM211 says the fridge needs a 10 amp fuse and nothing else should be connected to that circuit.
What about putting a breaker / fuse on the 12V side from your TV (you should have something there anyways) and moving the connection to the line directly feeding the battery?
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07-24-2012, 04:03 PM
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#26
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Member
Trailer: 1977 Trillium 4500
Posts: 39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
I have drawn up what I have done to the wiring of the trailer. When the Shore Power and Tow Vehicle are plugged in at the same time you will see that I blow 2 fuses and one of the fuse holder and wires. If you have any suggestions I will gladly accept them.  NOW if I can only figure out how to insert a image?
Attachment 49161
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I have found a questionable wire route that troubles me so I changed some of the wiring. Let me know if you agree or disagree. I have removed one of the fuses and holder and run the tow vehicle power wire to the supply of the distribution center.
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07-24-2012, 04:51 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13'
Oregon
Posts: 3,760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex C
I have found a questionable wire route that troubles me so I changed some of the wiring. Let me know if you agree or disagree. I have removed one of the fuses and holder and run the tow vehicle power wire to the supply of the distribution center.
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That's more typical. You might want to consider changing the 30amp fuse to 20 amp. If you're concerned about that measure the current with the stuff you would normally have on, on.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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07-24-2012, 04:53 PM
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#28
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Member
Name: chad
Trailer: 1975 Scamp- Super Cozy Ambulatory Mega Party, 1980 Boler B1500 15'
Alaska
Posts: 50
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Thanks for the wiring diagram there. I have to completely rewire my Scamp and I'm having to learn the why and where of isolaters, converters, inverters, etc. Hopefully it helps me once I'm under way.
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