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12-16-2008, 02:38 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft and Trillium 4500
Posts: 213
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Very strange. I also ordered mine through Interwest sports, and got it within two weeks, no problems at all. Mine shipped straight from the factory in Chicago, and the patio brackets came from Utah in a separate shipment.
Greg -
Installation is pretty straightforward, but this is my third awning install. I had to install the awning rail as well as the awning. My best advice is to have a helper during the install, it is not an easy job for one person. Before installing the awning rail, lay the awning bag on top of your trailer to see exactly where to center it. If you are also installing the patio brackets, then open the bag and check where the supports are - you don't want them interfering with the door or windows. I marked the ends of where the awning rail should go with a pencil, and to make it level, I measured out from the rise in the top of the roof (on Scamps - don't know about other makes) about 11". I measured about every 2' to make sure it is straight. You need to double check that the rail is high enough to not interfere with the door or rest on the drip caps, but you don't want it so high up that it is on the horizontal, otherwise the rafter supports will not work.
After installing the awning rail, I placed the bag in it temporarily and opened the ends to again get the exact placement for the rafter supports. After installing the rafter supports I setup the awning in carport position and then (with my helper) raised the legs against the trailer side to figure out the best spot to place the patio brackets - we looked for the spot that would give the most height, and be the most stable - in the case of my trailer, the best spot was directly above the belly band. I used a plumb-line to get the patio brackets centered directly under the rafter brackets, and then installed them. After that, it is simply a matter of drilling holes into the support legs to allow them to attach to the patio brackets.
I used aluminum rivets for the install, and sealed each hole with exterior white window caulking. Total install time was about 45 minutes, which included cutting down the awning rail. This was for a 10' awning - for a smaller one it might go more quickly.
The awning looks great and I am glad to have it - we do a lot of desert camping here in S. California, and there often isn't any shade or structures at campsites in the desert, so I love having an awning. After getting my 16', it was the first thing I ordered for it.
Hope that helps.
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12-16-2008, 10:21 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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Thanks Jake...
Between your description and Bookers photos I should have an easy time.....
Didn't go with the patio brackets initially, as I liked the legs being straight down, but I may end up adding that function later.
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12-16-2008, 10:46 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft and Trillium 4500
Posts: 213
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Quote:
Thanks Jake...
Between your description and Bookers photos I should have an easy time.....
Didn't go with the patio brackets initially, as I liked the legs being straight down, but I may end up adding that function later.
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The brackets are a must for me - many of the places I camp the ground is too hard to drive stakes into to hold down the legs. Also, my first awning didn't have any of those type of brackets, and a gust of wind flipped it over and ruined it. That is when I switched to the type with brackets on my last trailer (I had a Carefree Campout) - never had the problem again with the bracket type. It is a very nice feature to have.
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12-16-2008, 12:49 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 495
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Quote:
Hi: All... For those of you who might be dissapointed... Vintage Trailer Supply sells a period appropriate rope and pole awning. I think these would make a spectacular addition to any fiberglass trailer. Requires an awning rail attached to the trailer tho!!!
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Good find, Alf. Those really seem to be just like our original awning which we really like. Takes only a couple minutes to install and put away, plus no bag that flops in the wind or gathers dirt.
__________________
Driving on parkways and parking in driveways.
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12-16-2008, 05:25 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft and Trillium 4500
Posts: 213
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Quote:
Good find, Alf. Those really seem to be just like our original awning which we really like. Takes only a couple minutes to install and put away, plus no bag that flops in the wind or gathers dirt.
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Just a bunch of guy lines to trip over instead......
You also have to hope that your campsite doesn't have rocky ground. Also, hope it doesn't rain so the stakes pull up when the dirt softens from the water. As for flopping in the wind - better hope you don't get much of a breeze while that one is setup. When your done, it's yet another thing to store inside the trailer, and hope you don't lose any of the stakes, poles, lines, etc.
I've used a bag awning for years. Never had one "flop in the wind" to date. I wash my trailer regularly so dirt is not an issue. Stores out of the way in it's own bag, and don't have to ever worry about staking anything down, or losing any parts. With the brackets, stable even in windy conditions.
I'll take my "dirt gatherer" anyday, thank you very much.
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12-16-2008, 05:52 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 495
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Quote:
I'll take my "dirt gatherer" anyday, thank you very much.
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Point well taken. I guess we've been pretty lucky and haven't encountered enough bad awning conditions to start hating it yet. Ultimately I would probably get the retractable type, though.
__________________
Driving on parkways and parking in driveways.
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12-30-2008, 11:02 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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Anyone out there put a Shademaker 8ft on a 13 Scamp?
It looks like just eyeballing it, it is going to be pretty tough to get 8 feet of awning rail attached, more like 7 ft and there will be some overhang on both ends? Should be doable, but if anyone has done one on a 13 Scamp, would love to hear any tips before I start.
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12-31-2008, 11:52 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 995
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Hi Greg,
I have an 8' rail on my Trillium and I got a 8' bag awning. However, I discussed how you could go to a 9' awning with the 8' rail as the bag has about 4-6" of space at the ends so the actually awning tab is sitting in 4-6" from the end's.
The thing to watch out for is how the top rails attach to the trailer. I discussed this a bit in this post:
Wanted ... awning
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12-31-2008, 12:51 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1976 Tripple E Surfside
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Hi Greg,
I have an 8' rail on my Trillium and I got a 8' bag awning. However, I discussed how you could go to a 9' awning with the 8' rail as the bag has about 4-6" of space at the ends so the actually awning tab is sitting in 4-6" from the end's.
The thing to watch out for is how the top rails attach to the trailer. I discussed this a bit in this post:
Wanted ... awning
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That.s the same awning as we have,
and our freinds also.
It's a great awning.
BTW...that,s the exact same kitchenette we have too.LOL
__________________
1976 Surfside Tripple-E
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12-31-2008, 09:58 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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Have everything dry fit and the awning extended. The Scamp 13 appears a bit more dicey than the Trillium install as there is more curvature and less flat roof to put the awning rail on. Where the awning rail has to mount in order to clear the drip cap over the door you can only run about 7 feet of awning rail. I'll try and get some measurements posted from my install that will be applicable to the Scamp 13 for anyone wanting to install one of these on a Scamp.
You would not be able to use anything larger than the 8 foot bag awning on the Scamp, and even the 8 foot will have about 6" hanging out on each end of the awning rail.
I love the awning and it is a perfect solution for the small eggs. I got the Supreme 8 foot, and would certainly recommend that model over the Classic due to the enhanced features.
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01-08-2009, 10:46 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Scamp 1983
Posts: 534
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Thanks for posting Greg. We still have not started installing any of our major updates yet, though we have been collecting the parts. I think we are going to start with the upper cabinets for the dinette area, then install the vent fan, then we will tackle the awning. I am pretty sure we plan to get the same model and size you got (8ft. Shademaker delux) Did you find you could extend a few extra inches of rail past the 7ft mark? I was thinking that if you could get maybe even a couple of inches more on there, it would help compensate for the hang over on the ends. I did take a measuring tape to our scamp roof, and it looked to be pretty close to an even 7ft where the flat space was. I was just curious about squeezing in a couple more inches if at all possible. I'm glad the 8ft'er works for the 13ft Scamp! Enjoy your awning!
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08-21-2013, 07:13 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: 94 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 333
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>>Where the awning rail has to mount in order to clear the drip cap over the door you can only run about 7 feet of awning rail. I'll try and get some measurements posted from my install that will be applicable to the Scamp 13 for anyone wanting to install one of these on a Scamp. <<
Greg - Please do post your measurements. Thanks.
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08-21-2013, 08:21 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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I cut about 6" off my 8' rail to fit my 13' Scamp. It's still raised off the roof at each end a little bit, but it doesn't hurt and doesn't look wierd. I have an 8' awning so it is about 6" longer than the rail. When the awning is on it I put the excess awning length on one side rather than splitting the difference. I then pull the rope on the awning and secure with a suction hook so the entire awning is tight and not droopy on each end.
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08-21-2013, 08:39 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Linda
Trailer: '77 Scamp
California
Posts: 630
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[ATTACH][/ATTACH]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheryl M
>>Where the awning rail has to mount in order to clear the drip cap over the door you can only run about 7 feet of awning rail. I'll try and get some measurements posted from my install that will be applicable to the Scamp 13 for anyone wanting to install one of these on a Scamp. <<
Greg - Please do post your measurements. Thanks.
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Sheryl, I'm not Greg, but also wanted to mention that I mounted mine 6" over the drip cap and it clears the door well. Here's a picture of what the rail looks like mounted.
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08-22-2013, 06:54 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Trailer: 94 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 333
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Thanks. I cant tell from the picture, but is it screwed into, or riveted into the fiberglass? Our scamp is at the shop getting a couple of things done to it. We have a Catalina 2500 awning; we're told the parts that are needed to repair it are no longer available.
As such, the old awning will need to be taken off, and if we go this route, we'll need to fit the railing - most likely in between where the Catalina brackets are. I don't think I have any good pictures of the current brackets, but from what I remember, it's a V shaped mount that sticks out (with the point of the V) pointing towards where the awning would be pulled out. The top parts of the V are the "feet" that are attached to the Scamp (not sure if it's been riveted on). Until I get a closer look, I won't know if the awning rail can be attached to any part of that, or if that bracket needs to be taken off too. Anyone removed a Catalina awning and installed something else? The Scamp is mid 90's vintage.
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