Trying to re-seal windows - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-25-2016, 05:40 PM   #15
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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Here it what I did for my windows. I do not have a bath room window as My 13 footer doesn't have a bathroom but the kitchen window appears to be the same.

step 1. clean around the window.

2. blue tape around the window leaving about 1/16 inch gap between the tape and the window frame.

3. remove the window.

4. clean the window frame & fiberglass trailer where the window mounts.

5. put the window back in its opening without any sealant on it.

6. note the areas that don't touch the fiberglass when you put the window in place. These areas have to be built up with extra butyl putty. One of my windows needed 2 extra layers in the corners on top of the single layer all around the window frame.

4. On my Scamp the inside trim ring is installed backwards because of the thin wall structure.

5. remove the window and fit the trim ring backwards as used on thin walls. the trim ring must be able to go all the way down the window frame. When I received my used Scamp the small frosted window trim ring was split. All of my other trim rings were not split. All of my windows are radius windows not jalousie windows.

6. After you verified that your trim rings are fitting properly and right way around mark them so you can put them back together properly.

7. with the frames on the window check the gap between the trim ring and the window frame. once the screws are tightened all the way the ring cant go further down. this is the gap you have to fill. Hopefully this gap is narrower than the thickness of your wall. I had no issue with this gap on my trailer as I have the thickness of the fiberglass shell, double thick reflextic and rat fur liner a at minimum 1 layer of butyl tape. In your case you probably have a shower liner too. If this is not thick enough for your trim ring you will need to add some more Butyl strips to take up the gap. I don't know if you also add a layer of butyl under the inside trim ring to seal the shower side.

8. install the window with the necessary layers of butyl with extra as needed in the areas that don't fit flat.

9. tighten the screws working around the trim ring a little at a time until the butyl starts to squeeze out all around the window frame. it is important the screws don't bottom out before the trim ring clamps up and if the trim ring bottoms against the window don't go cranking down on the screw it wont tighten any more and just breaks the screw or strips it. I replaced all of my old screws when I resealed my windows. Old screws are easy to strip the heads on giving you lots of trouble later.

10. after you you get the window installed let it sit a day or so that way the butyl releases its tension. then take a dull knife and trim the butyl around the window frame. Now pull off your tape and reveal a nice clean install with out a bunch of goop to clean up. When trimming the Butyl best to do it cold first thing in the morning. Once the stuff warms up it can cut into a gooey mess.

11. some people run an extra bead of sealer around the window to cover the exposed butyl. I don't but some people do.

12 Use real butyl tape. do not use putty tape. test what you are using. stretch it like you would a piece of chewed bubble gum. it should stretch smooth and slick for over 6 inches or more when warm. putty tape will only stretch a couple of inches if your lucky and where it breaks it will look grainy.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:43 PM   #16
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Name: bob
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I would not use the foam tape. I tried that on a rear window from Scamp, it leaked. Butyl tape worked great, no leak.
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Old 05-25-2016, 06:51 PM   #17
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Whoa! Lot's of good information here and plenty of responses like I was hoping for; thanks to everyone who has chimed in. The windows we're using are two part metal, aluminum I think but it could be steel, with screws from the inside to the outside only. The screws are mostly torn up and I will be replacing them with new stainless steel screws that I hope to pick up from Lowe's tomorrow. We have impending rain so I didn't take the chance and pull the window tonight. We'll have to see about tomorrow night...thanks again for all the ideas. I am optimistic that we can get this problem resolved.
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
Whoa! Lot's of good information here and plenty of responses like I was hoping for; thanks to everyone who has chimed in. The windows we're using are two part metal, aluminum I think but it could be steel, with screws from the inside to the outside only. The screws are mostly torn up and I will be replacing them with new stainless steel screws that I hope to pick up from Lowe's tomorrow. We have impending rain so I didn't take the chance and pull the window tonight. We'll have to see about tomorrow night...thanks again for all the ideas. I am optimistic that we can get this problem resolved.
Bill yours sound to be the same as the one on my 92 which I resealed. Its a two person job. Once you have the tape on the window press it from the outside onto the trailer and the opening and have someone inside fit the inside clamp ring. I know that due to the fact the side of the trailer is slopped at that point it does take a bit to press it in and get it so it sits evenly onto the trailer.
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:19 PM   #19
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Name: Eddie
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If things won't tighten up you can trace out the inside trim ring on a piece of lauan and cutout a inside spacer to go under the trim ring if all else fails.
Eddie
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:33 AM   #20
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Name: Jack L
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If the parts worked before, they should work now without any modifications. The outside flange and the inside flange should go together with some moderate tightening of the screws. If they aren't, the only thing I can think of would be that the two flanges are binding instead of one sliding into the other.
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:03 AM   #21
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Jack, this is what I'm thinking so I'm pulling it apart again to dry fit and see where the issue is. I like the idea of a luan spacer if I can get them back together; thanx Eddie. It did rain last night but I should get a chance to work on this today and thoroughly troubleshoot the issues. I appreciate the advice and thank everyone for helping.

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If the parts worked before, they should work now without any modifications. The outside flange and the inside flange should go together with some moderate tightening of the screws. If they aren't, the only thing I can think of would be that the two flanges are binding instead of one sliding into the other.
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Old 05-26-2016, 07:41 AM   #22
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When the window was orig. installed it was clamped against new ratfur and new refletix with full air bubbles taking up at least 3/8" of space. Over the years the inside material compress to next to nothing. Are you using the black butyl window tape it is a little wider and seems a little thicker. Also like stated earlier make sure the window is centered in the hole. I just resealed a bath window and the hole was quite a bit larger than the window not allowing a very large sealing area unless the window was centered in the hole.
On the in the oval hinged bath windows I have also seen the window opening seals come unglued and if that seal is bad the window will leak over the inner lip.
Eddie
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Old 05-26-2016, 09:07 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
When the window was orig. installed it was clamped against new ratfur and new refletix with full air bubbles taking up at least 3/8" of space. Over the years the inside material compress to next to nothing. Are you using the black butyl window tape it is a little wider and seems a little thicker. Also like stated earlier make sure the window is centered in the hole. I just resealed a bath window and the hole was quite a bit larger than the window not allowing a very large sealing area unless the window was centered in the hole.
On the in the oval hinged bath windows I have also seen the window opening seals come unglued and if that seal is bad the window will leak over the inner lip.
Eddie
If the OP has a side bath model of the same age range as mine was it may not have rat fur around the bathroom window but instead a sheet of laminate type material on that wall. If the window has leaked at all the laminate may have come loose from the wall around the window & it can/will creating some resistance to getting the window back in.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:51 AM   #24
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Name: Jack L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
When the window was orig. installed it was clamped against new ratfur and new refletix with full air bubbles taking up at least 3/8" of space. Over the years the inside material compress to next to nothing. Are you using the black butyl window tape it is a little wider and seems a little thicker. Also like stated earlier make sure the window is centered in the hole. I just resealed a bath window and the hole was quite a bit larger than the window not allowing a very large sealing area unless the window was centered in the hole.
On the in the oval hinged bath windows I have also seen the window opening seals come unglued and if that seal is bad the window will leak over the inner lip.
Eddie
That does make sense, and if that is the problem, a layer of foam weather striping on the INSIDE flange to compensate for the material that was crushed might solve the problem.
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:03 PM   #25
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We pulled the window for a third time and put the two halves together without butyl outside the camper. The space is almost 3/8" and no way will that ever seal without "assistance." I am including a picture of the window and ring so you can see the issue.

I could double or triple the butyl but I've decided to cut a spacer from 1/4" plywood (sealed with poly stain) and place the spacer inside the camper, between the window ring and the wall. This will allow us to use a single layer of butyl and 3/4" stainless screws to pull the assembly together tightly.

Since the spacer is on the inside of the window, we won't have to worry about getting wet from the weather. However, it may get wet if we ever re-install the shower. We've already cut the spacer from an old piece of plywood and completed the first coat of onyx stain.
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Old 05-27-2016, 09:26 PM   #26
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I have a system I use for applying putty tape. When the roll is fresh and the weather is warm it is darned sticky stuff, nice and soft but a nuisance to put in place. So I keep my roll in the refrigerator. Then I take it out of the fridge and apply it and pull the paper tape while it is still relatively cold. Then before I place the object I am installing onto the taped surface I warm up the butyl tape with a hair dryer making it very soft and easy to compress.

It sounds like extra labor but in the long run it goes faster for me and I get an excellent seal with no voids.

Your spacer looks like it will work for you. Another choice of spacer would be EVA closed cell foam. Buy the firm type rather than the softer version. It will tell you on the package if it is soft or firm. It is adhesive backed and comes in various thickness. You can find it sold in rolls where weather stripping is sold. Because it does compress a small amount that will allow for surface irregularities.
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:46 AM   #27
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Name: Russ
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Bill,
It looks like the trim ring "leg" is too long for the thickness of your trailer wall. This assumes the trim ring is "L" shaped extrusion. If you wanted to eliminate the spacer would it be possible to modify the leg on the ring? Maybe use a belt sander? You would then need shorter screws to match.
Russ
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:56 AM   #28
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Looks like the weld has broken on the clamp ring. Perhaps when you're cinching the ring down, the gap increases even further. All the clamp rings on the windows in my Scamp are "solid" with no gaps. I'd get that fixed before continuing to attempt getting a waterproof seal. YMMV
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