Trying to re-seal windows - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-29-2016, 09:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by TheWanderers View Post
We pulled the window for a third time and put the two halves together without butyl outside the camper. The space is almost 3/8" and no way will that ever seal without "assistance." I am including a picture of the window and ring so you can see the issue.

<cut>

However, it may get wet if we ever re-install the shower.
So when you removed the shower did you also removed the laminate that was on the window wall for of the bathroom? Resulting in a thinner wall for the window to be mounted into?
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Old 05-30-2016, 04:35 AM   #30
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The clamp ring on my windows also had a gap. Might be normal??
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:09 AM   #31
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Carol, we didn't remove the shower and there was nothing but ensolite and fiberglass in the wall of the shower. I'll be replacing the shower window with the new spacer this evening and I expect that it'll pull right up to a good seal now.

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So when you removed the shower did you also removed the laminate that was on the window wall for of the bathroom? Resulting in a thinner wall for the window to be mounted into?
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:33 PM   #32
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Sealed that mofo right UP!

I used the concept of a spacer and used 1/4" plywood that Laura sealed with Minwax Stain. I reduced the width of the butyl tape to 1/2" wide and only one thickness.

That bad boy pulled down smooth and easy. I trimmed the butyl off the ring from the outside before I snugged the screws up a second time and I'm planning on a final adjustment tomorrow, to apply a light twist to ensure that they're all snug after sitting in the direct sunlight.

Here's a picture of the butyl oozing out after the first trim. I am extremely confident that this window is now sealed! Thanks for the great advice to all here who helped to solve this issue.

Freakin' Awesome Dudes!
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:56 AM   #33
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Taking my window out hope to use the original tape to put them back, interesting read
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Old 06-03-2016, 10:12 AM   #34
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Taking my window out hope to use the original tape to put them back, interesting read
I just installed a new roof fan. No way could I reuse the old butyl tape. The stuff was like chewing gum, half stuck to the old fan and the rest stuck to the trailer. New butyl can be found at any RV store. Here the local lumber yard sells it for sealing channel drain metal roof sheets. Good luck, Raz
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:13 AM   #35
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Yikes! I'm about to put in all four of my jalousie windows on the Boler. I'm kind of scared after reading this thread: I don't have time to start over again...

Question: I'll be using rivets. How would that change the tactic I need to use?

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:57 AM   #36
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Uncle: I wouldn't use rivets because I don't think you can control the "pull" to insure that the window will seal correctly. I've remounted my windows using new butyl tape and screwed them down successfully. Then returned the next day and turned the screws another quarter turn after the butyl has had a chance to warm up from the ambient temperature of a full day.

I have reinstalled the rivets in several places and don't like the results because then don't install consistently. The expanding part of the rivet has a mind of it's own and I don't feel that you can rely on when/how they tighten down. I used stainless screws and stainless nylock nuts on the roof vent as well as butyl to seal and that went very well. I'm considering using that same combination on other parts of the cabinetry whenever required because I can be sure that they are pulling all parts together.
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:59 AM   #37
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Taking my window out hope to use the original tape to put them back, interesting read
I wouldn't dream of using the old butyl tape and expect to have an effective seal. I don't think I could get it enough material out of the old seal to use to create a new seal. Plus, the price of this stuff is so cheap that it's a no brainer to replace it and get an effective seal.
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:10 AM   #38
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Bill,

It a done deal now...with rivets. I understand your tactic. I guess you'll be able to hide the screws with that sliding thing on the outside. How about on the inside?

I read on this forum that screws might be a bad call for cabinets and such because they won't give. Those people's opinion is that it's better for a rivet to give than for your cabinet to give. Makes sense to me. But screws are appealing, I understand your point.
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:23 AM   #39
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I was advised to rivet in my windows in a cross pattern, such as one might use for tightening the lug nuts on a wheel. One center left, then one center right, top right corner, followed by lower left corner etc. all the way around.


I also only pulled the rivets snug to allow the butyl tape to squeeze down, then later went around and put another single pull on the rivets. Let it settle some more during the heat of the day, then came back and pulled another single pull. Eventually the rivets started to "pop" and I went around doing them all.


The frames may be a less than perfect match for the wall curve, doing the rivets a little at a time allowed me to tighten more where it seemed to need it, and allowed the butyl tape time to get squeezed out so the window frame would fit tighter against the wall.


YMMV but that seems to have worked for me.
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:42 AM   #40
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Roger,

Sounds like a great idea that considers the properties of both the rivets and of the butyl tape! I did use the cross pattern with the rivets, but did not do the squeeze-and-wait approach. Even though I'm pretty good at taking off rivets, I'm not about to pull the windows back out: that butyl tape is REEEEEEEALLY sticky...
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