UHaul Door Problem - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-11-2014, 10:56 AM   #1
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Name: Patti
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UHaul Door Problem

Darn, I really could have used a new set of door hinges. I'm thinking my door sag is hopeless.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:39 AM   #2
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Patti; is the door sag due to worn hinges or another problem. I know the bottom hinge screws go into wood on the trailer body, and probably the top hinge too and I'm not sure about in the door. The bottom hinge attachment can be seen from in the front storage compartment. On our trailer it looks like one screw missed the wood or is close to the edge and split it. (poor assembly when built) I've also found water leakage around the hinges which may result in that wood support rotting. Check those areas. There is info as to who made those hinges and where new ones can be purchased, although at more than what Uhaul was selling them for. Appears that they have been doing some parts department house cleaning. I bought a set of hinges last year and then later a door striker. They also had last year a couple trailer tongues for sale that supposedly were for the campers.
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Old 03-11-2014, 12:09 PM   #3
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Patti, I think Bob and Mary are on to something. Because when I replaced my screws in the hindges, I found that the wooden frame inside the door was rotted. I do not know how one would replace the rotted wood, I couldn't.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:24 PM   #4
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If you are talking about screws not holding due to rotted wood, you can drill through the fiberglass on the door and use SS machine screws and nuts , cut off flush with nut . It will not interfere with the bulb seal on the door and you can tighten it up. Biggest issue with replacing hinges is getting a socket on the nut to tighten on the bottom hinge, a deep well socket is needed along with a little butyl putty to hold the nut. Once started tighten from the outside.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:56 PM   #5
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You are correct Mike, thanks. I beleive that's how I did mine. Had to cut screws off, too long.
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:51 PM   #6
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I had the door off. Wood inside is not crumbly or split. Replaced all the screws with longer stainless steel with locking nuts. When the hinge (top) was off the holes were a little out of round so now there is a thin insert in the trailer side hinge to tighten that up.Replaced the hinge pins shortly after getting the trailer as someone here suggested. I'm going to take out the hinge side door seal to see if it is easier to close. Almost impossible to close the door from the inside without a big slam.
Now I know why the PO had the door open when I bought it. And of course I was not as aware of how these great campers are put together. Last effort would be a total hinge replacement door and trailer side. Too big of a project for me alone.
Thanks to Bob and Thomas G et all for your help.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:03 PM   #7
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Patti, there are some very kind and knowledgable folks here who truly want to help.
It is so nice to see a thank you for them. I hope your door is working better now and am sorry you missed the NOS hindges, but there are alternatives.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:05 PM   #8
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Patti, is the door striker adjusted correctly. It is held on by two bolts that have to be accessed in the opening for the furnace. Takes a 1/2" wrench. The two pins on the door latch slide into notches on the striker. If not lined up correctly door will close hard. Loosening those two bolts will allow adjustment of the striker. I have seen some Uhaul latches where the guide pins were missing. They are available in a rebuilt kit that was listed on eBay. Or could be made from a bolt with the correct thread by cutting off the head.
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:43 PM   #9
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Patti; has the door seal been replaced that you know of? Could it be the wrong seal? If you hold the outside, or the inside handle in the open position, that is as if you were opening the door, the door should close easily without any binding. But hinge adjustment may be a two person job if nuts have to be held on the inside. An old trick we used with sagging truck doors (drivers hang on the door climbing into the cab) was to put a board under the door with it partially open, lift up, and spring the door back into alignment. Probably not a good idea with fiberglass, but a possible means of adjusting it with the hinge screws loose. Check those alignment pins on the latch for sliding into the striker slots easily.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:38 AM   #10
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Bob, I appreciate your continuing help with this. Yes, the door seal has been replaced. So that is why I want to try to cut some of it out at the hinges to see if that makes a difference. If I try to open from the inside (after slamming it shut it kind of springs open. From the outside I have to push hard with two hands to get the door shut to be able to lock it.
I will check the door striker but don't know if I can get to the bolts with my furnace installed.
Thanks again for all the attention and suggestions for my problem.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:46 AM   #11
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I have seen two types of door seal on CTs. A bulb type that attaches to the door frame by friction and a screw on type that is attached to the door. Tried to leave the screw on type after installing a bulb and it was too thick at the hinge points.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:51 PM   #12
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I have removed our furnace but as I recall it was before I did so that I was able to get my hand in past it to loosen those two bolts and adjust the door striker. The front cover or grill snaps off the furnace which may give you more room to reach in. I would try adjusting that out some. Another thing I did was to put a pull handle on the inside of the door rather than pull it shut with the latch handle. Just a hardware store handle is what I used. As usual though I got into my fussy mode, pulled the latch assembly out of the door, cut a small piece of plywood to put inside the door for reinforcement, and screwed the pull handle through the fiberglass into the wood. I've got so used to that handle that when I went into another Uhaul I was reaching for it, but nothing there!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:12 PM   #13
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Bob is right about the adjustment. The last on I worked on after we replaced the hinges , we loosened the striker just enough to barely move, aligned the striker bolts ,and latched . One on the outside pushed on the door enough to make the seal and check alignment. Then the guy on the inside then tightened with a ratcheting box end wrench.
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Old 03-12-2014, 03:21 PM   #14
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Wow guys, I did not know all this, thanks for the information.
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