Uhaul Side Windows - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2010, 07:54 PM   #15
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Adding new felt

Once you are happy that the channel is clear enough it is time to add the new felt. I think the one I used fit in the channel perfectly.

As I mentioned at the bottom of the channel there are notches on either side - you might be able to see that in the picture. The bottom of the felt juts out and with some work can wedge into this notch.

To accomplish this I put in the felt and pressed it in the middle with the back of my butter knife (it was the right width but a flat screwdriver would work too).

Then I used the working side of the butter knife to slide on the outside edge of each side of the felt, pressing down until I felt the side bits of the felt catch into the notch. This really works and makes the window slide much easier. I didn't come up with this technique until my second window and then took apart the first one I did and redid the felt with the butter knife technique. When I put it back together the window slide much easier.

I cut the felt off at the mid window junction and then put the felt in the upper half as well, making sure the window frame can fit back together with pressure. I just wedged the felt in and did not use any glue, it really wedges in tightly.
Attached Thumbnails
cross section felt in slots.jpg   pushing felt into channel.jpg  

cross section of new felt inserted.jpg   inserting new felt.jpg  

back of butter knife.jpg   edge of butter knife on outside of felt.jpg  

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Old 08-04-2010, 07:55 PM   #16
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Note - something else I tried:
There has been some discussion of the ‘design error’ in the U-haul windows where the drain holes are located and the fact that the felt covers this. In the first window I did I decided to cut a small piece out of the felt that would go over this drain hole. Not sure if this was the best decision but here is a picture of what I did. For the next window I decided not to do this - I will see if there is a difference.
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cutting holes in felt to match gutter.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:08 PM   #17
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Putting the frame back together

Now it is time to put it all back together! Clean off the sliding window and put it into the new felt channel by stretching the frame apart.

Reattach the frame – put the four screws back into the metal holding piece and the two long screw back into the top and bottom (I replaced what I could with new screws and then added a little bit of butyl tape around the top of the screw shaft before the final tighten).


Now it is time to rivet. I had never riveted before so I had earlier taken the whole window to Princess Auto and discussed the situation. A very nice guy showed me the riveter and rivets he thought would work – as pictured at the beginning. Then I watched a couple of You-tube videos on how to do it. It worked for me.

Basically you load the rivet into the tool, line up the screen hole with the frame hole, place the rivet in and then press down firmly and engage the tool. Do spend some time lining things up and pressing the tool down firmly - you really don't want to have to undo all your work again due to a bad rivet.
It didn’t require herculian strength. For some reason I did have to really knock my tool around to get the part of the rivet that stays in it to get out - you can't do the next one until this bit is out.


I was worried that I might crack the window glass but no problem there. One issue was that once the bottom of the screen was riveted the top holes did not match the frame. This was easily solved by using our large bar clamp to squeeze the frame a little until it was all lined up.


Way easier than I had imagined frankly.
Attached Thumbnails
screen ready for rivetting.jpg   ready to rivet.jpg  

clamping frame to rivet.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:21 PM   #18
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Last touch for window - outer gasket

Remember the outer gasket I forgot to tell you to remove? Well now you can put it back in. I noticed it now fits much more snugly up against the new felt rubber. (The reason I forgot about removing it is that it used to just fall right out.)
I suspect that this is a much more watertight seal now - but we'll see, I may buy the new part for this too - the good thing is that this is super easy to switch out.
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insert outer gasket.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2010, 08:25 PM   #19
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Window frames done!

So here are the photos of the finished window frames! Glass slides snugly but not too tight.

I still have to get the windows back in the fiberglass (which does not sound fun - but I'm sure it can be managed). Here is a shot comparing the old two piece gasket with the new two piece - looks like a perfect match to me.

Ok - time for a beer.

Bridget
Attached Thumbnails
finished window inside 1.jpg   finished window inside 2.jpg  

finished window outside.jpg   new and old gasket.jpg  

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Old 08-05-2010, 01:16 AM   #20
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Thumbs up

This is awesome in its detail and very easy to follow.

I am also very curious how the experiment with the weep hole cutout in the felt will work, and I encourage you not to wait for rain to find out! Maybe get a hose and dribble water right into the channel and see if it leaks in, or out!.

Regards,

Matt
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bridget T View Post
So here are the photos of the finished window frames! Glass slides snugly but not too tight.

I still have to get the windows back in the fiberglass (which does not sound fun - but I'm sure it can be managed). Here is a shot comparing the old two piece gasket with the new two piece - looks like a perfect match to me.

Ok - time for a beer.

Bridget
Bridget,

What a fantastic post! I just had a new Dexter running gear with brakes installed, and I'm now at the point of wanting to repair or replace all of my windows. You make it sound so easy. Maybe you would want a part time job? Thanks for helping those of us who don't have a clue.

Marty D.
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Old 08-05-2010, 10:31 AM   #22
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Weeping channel description

Ok,
So after reading Matt's suggestion I did see what water did to each window. Not a huge difference in this test really between the windows but I did see that the inside of the felt can get quite wet.
So after thinking it over, and I cannot believe I am writing this, but I decided to take apart my second window again and cut the felt for the weeping channels on this one too.
For those of you who are wondering what we are talking about I have tried to take some pictures to help you picture it. If you look at the outside shot from the Uhaul manual picture you can see little holes in the bottom of the frame - which apparently used to have little covers as shown by parts 5&6 on this drawing.
There are actually 4 of these on my windows, and inside the metal that separates the two channels also has holes to match up. I have tried to show this by putting a bit of white cloth where the felt goes in one picture. These holes are supposed to allow water to drain out but when you put in the new rubber felt there is no way for water to get out of the inside of the felt unless you cut a hole.
Basically what I did was take my finished window, mark with an exacto knife through the two weeping channels into the felt [I think if your windows are in you could just do this to give a slit for the water to get out]. Then I took my windows apart (!) pulled out the whole bottom felt, cleaned up the rivet backs, and cut the felt as shown to have drain holes. I also pulled out as much of the top felt as I need to get the backs of the rivets out from up there.
Then I put it all back together - spending the majority of time getting the felt in place with my butter knife technique.
The whole procedure took 1hr.

Bridget
Attached Thumbnails
window outside view.png   felt cut for weeping channel.jpg  

marking felt through weeping channels.jpg   weeping channel.jpg  

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Old 08-05-2010, 07:57 PM   #23
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I did find some weep hole covers online. Actually I think there were two different sizes. This one looks promising. They go upside down from this photo unless you want to channel water in

Hehr Weep Hole Covers- Black: eBay Motors (item 290268061572 end time Aug-06-10 16:53:58 PDT)

These swissco parts are cheaper and I think the dimensions are close, but they're white

SWISCO.com: Weep Hole Cover : 26-216

a couple different sizes Hehr: (here )

https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=3050
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=5515

I did not check these dimensions out in any detail, but they LOOK similar

Regards,

Matt
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:02 PM   #24
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So we got the windows in! The two part gasket piece worked perfectly.

After my initial cleaning I did a last minute clean of the fiberglass window hole with acetone. This worked really well, but be careful, I got a little on my emergency exit sticker and it took some of the paint off! (Well, it is nail polish remover, what did I expect?).

Then I fit the gasket around the fiberglass window hole, pressing it into the corners. When I felt it was pressed in the corners as well as possible I cut it off, with about a centimeter extra. Then I forced this to fit - you want the two cut pieces to have pressure against each other to make a good seal.
Then the window got put in. This actually worked better than I expected, mostly due to the horror stories I had read here! The locking gasket tool was very helpful for this part of the job. It was a good shape to press the window into the gasket. You definitely need two people for this, one working on the inside and the other on the outside helping to press the rubber gasket inwards to help and making sure that the window doesn't pop out in the corners. Having the outside person push the gasket inwards with a butter knife helps too.

Once the outer gasket is in then the lock strip has to be put in place. We used very soapy water for lubrication which we applied with a turkey baster that has a very sharp end.
As you can imagine this procedure lead to some hilarity over the instructions being given. 'More lube!' 'Press it there' etc....
All joking aside it was a tight fit and did cause some back strain. (Hmmm that still sounds funny!)

The lock strip tool was amazing. Note that putting the emergency pull tab back in place means you need to start the lock strip tool on either side of it - it is held in place by the locking part of the gasket coming out through it.

Again when you get all the locking gasket in place and need to cut it make a little longer and force it into place.

Ah, all done! (for one window!)
Bridget
Attached Thumbnails
gasket in place.jpg   gasket part way in.jpg  

putting emerg tab on lock gasket.jpg   lock strip around emerg tab.jpg  

emerg tab in place.jpg   emerg window done.jpg  

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Old 08-07-2010, 08:39 AM   #25
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I was asked about the size that the fiberglass window hole on the side window in the CT13. I did not measure this before putting the window in but by pushing my gasket aside a little I could see where the edge sat on the finished window. The estimate (and it is a good one) is 24 5/8" wide by 19 1/4" high.
Bridget
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:03 AM   #26
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Great posts Bridget!!! Those pics will help a bunch, the only way it would be easier is if you would come to Ohio and do it for me!!! LOL THANKS. RICK
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:33 PM   #27
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Ha! I think I will decline your generous offer. You'll have to settle for the other half of the gasket I ordered.
A few days not thinking about windows would be great. However, I have started learning about all the electrical components.....
Bridget

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Great posts Bridget!!! Those pics will help a bunch, the only way it would be easier is if you would come to Ohio and do it for me!!! LOL THANKS. RICK
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:13 AM   #28
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Weeping hole covers

I measured my weeping holes and they 3/4" long and 1/4" high.

So, naturally as I am apparently obsessed with doing anything I can to make my windows leakproof, I called Pallendent about the weeping hole covers that Matt found online. A very nice person there got the products and measured them for me. I am unclear as to whether her measurements were for the whole item, or for the hole it would fit into - either way these are way too large.
As per her measurements, item H110-444 is '2" long and 5/8" wide', item H110 06620 is '2" long and 1/4'" wide' and item KWHC is no longer available.
The Ebay ones are also listed as 2" and 5/8".
The Swissco is the closest: it fits in a hole that is 1" in length and 1/4" high.

I liked the one suggestion someone made about using bits of nylon stockings stuck in the holes when it rained which wicked the water out of the channels.

Bridget



Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt in SV View Post
I did find some weep hole covers online. Actually I think there were two different sizes. This one looks promising. They go upside down from this photo unless you want to channel water in

Hehr Weep Hole Covers- Black: eBay Motors (item 290268061572 end time Aug-06-10 16:53:58 PDT)

These swissco parts are cheaper and I think the dimensions are close, but they're white

SWISCO.com: Weep Hole Cover : 26-216

a couple different sizes Hehr: (here )

https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=3050
https://www.pellandent.com/Motorhome...productID=5515

I did not check these dimensions out in any detail, but they LOOK similar

Regards,

Matt
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weeping channel length.jpg   weeping channel height.jpg  

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