Uhaul Side Windows - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-12-2010, 12:20 PM   #29
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this is an excellent thread.....nothing explains like pictures
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Bridget T View Post
So here are the photos of the finished window frames! Glass slides snugly but not too tight.

I still have to get the windows back in the fiberglass (which does not sound fun - but I'm sure it can be managed). Here is a shot comparing the old two piece gasket with the new two piece - looks like a perfect match to me.

Ok - time for a beer.

Bridget
Wow great post.My back sliding window in the Boler needs a new rubber slide chanel.Have been putting it off cause its something I'm afraid of really screwing up.Your directions are clear and the pictures sure help.Maybe its not going to be as scary as I thought.Thanks for sharing and enjoy that beer,you earned it.
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Old 09-03-2010, 02:06 PM   #31
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uhaul side window

Great job!
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:45 AM   #32
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Bridget, the wife and I put the door window in on sunday, what a pain!! Did you start with the window on the inside then work the seal in over the window? Started putting locking seal in and ran out of daylight, so need to finish today.
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:33 AM   #33
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Hey Rick,
The door window is the only one I haven't tackled. Mine actually doesn't leak.
When I did the side windows I put the seal around the window opening then pushed the window into the bottom of the seal from the inside and slowly eased the window into the seal bit by bit.
It was a very slow process and a tight fit for the side windows. I imagine it would be a little tougher with the small door window.
I found the tool for putting the two piece gasket together really handy for pushing the edge of the window into the gasket and slowly easing the gasket around the window edge bit by bit. Again this is a battle won centimeter by centimeter. (I guess that would be about 1/2 inches for you!)
Good luck,
Bridget

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Originally Posted by RICK H. View Post
Bridget, the wife and I put the door window in on sunday, what a pain!! Did you start with the window on the inside then work the seal in over the window? Started putting locking seal in and ran out of daylight, so need to finish today.
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Old 09-08-2010, 07:38 AM   #34
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You give me hope that I can fix my windows!
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Old 11-14-2010, 05:05 PM   #35
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excellent thread & write up....I'll be tackling this very soon....
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Old 03-31-2011, 08:43 PM   #36
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Anyone know where to get this rubber channel?
I replaced the felt chanels on my u-haul and had to buy 100 ft roll so I have 70 or so ft left let me know if you are still looking for it. I had to bring a sample to a rv place and I was lucky on the 4th or fifth place to find some one who took the time to find it. I did not take out the windows.
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Old 04-01-2011, 05:15 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by slateman1 View Post
I replaced the felt chanels on my u-haul and had to buy 100 ft roll so I have 70 or so ft left let me know if you are still looking for it. I had to bring a sample to a rv place and I was lucky on the 4th or fifth place to find some one who took the time to find it. I did not take out the windows.
how were you able to install the channel without removing the window? and where's westfield? Mass?
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:43 AM   #38
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how were you able to install the channel without removing the window? and where's westfield? Mass?
I will try to explain how I replaced the sliding window gasket. I did this 3 years ago so I am trying to replay it in my head. I first removed the inside screen by drilling out the old pop rivets make sure to use a 9/64 bit because you will need to install new rivets at the end. I left the glass open and lifted the gasket carefully out to make sure it was loose (you will need the old one to mark the drain holes) than pushed it back into place than I closed the glass and worked the top and bottom loose. I worked the top first by moving the glass back than sliding the gasket forward a little at a time using the glass to help hold the gasket I moved the glass back. I fond once the top was out the bottom was easy because of the extra room created by the top being out clean the area with a flat screw driver to remove all old glue and dust.IT HAS TO BE FREE OF ALL DIRT. Once the gasket is out lay it next to the new material and cut a new peace the exact same length you will need a pair of tin snips because there is steel in the new gasket. I than used a whiteout marker to mark the holes. I than carefully drilled a inch hole and cut out the drain hole being careful not to cut to high and cause a break that might snag the glass. I than reinstalled the gasket by sliding the top in up to the rear stop and worked the gasket around till I got to the bottom moving the glass back and forth to help slide the gasket into place after I was satisfied it was a real good fit I first glued the rear top and bottom than left the glass open to hold the tract in place till the glue was set (overnight) than I did the front the best I could. I did not use a ton of adhesive. I did not want a mess and the windows are closed most of the time so the gasket stays in place. The rear window was a lot harder because of the length. I had to remove the rubber stop I ended up cutting the top inside tract and bending it up so I could remove the glass than cut the new one as above and installed the bottom first and than the front, put the glass back in and worked the gasket back in place glued it and VERRY CARFULY I bent the cut tract back into place.The curtons hide the cut area I needed to do the rear this way because my window binds as I open it (not 100% squire) if yours opens and closes easy you could do it the same as the side glass. You will need to take your time and not rush doing it the way I did. It worked for me that’s not to say it can be done by everyone. After all is dry MAKE SURE THE DRAINS ARE OPEN AND CLEAR I used an adhesive caulk (not a water base one and not liquid nails) a good exterior silicone adhesive clear caulk will do fine and remember you dont need alot.I only put it on the flat bottom part of the gasket Westfield is just north of Springfield Ma. Hope this helps. There may be a point where you have to wing it but I did it so I know it can be done and they no longer leak. By the way the door window is done the same way. I would play with a sample first to get used to drilling and cutting the new stuff. I forgot to tell you on the rear window I removed the inside frame (hex head screws)
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Old 04-24-2011, 05:14 PM   #39
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Getting ready to order the parts for the window repair. How much of the AS-1268 do i need? The two side windows and the door.

Thanks, Daman
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:52 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by daman4799 View Post
Getting ready to order the parts for the window repair. How much of the AS-1268 do i need? The two side windows and the door.

Thanks, Daman
When I did my window I went to a lot of camper dealers and finely found one who took the time to measure the piece I had and than look it up. He found Universal Single flex glass channel 7/16 x 3/8 to fit so I ordered it but I could only get it in a 100 roll. I have over 75 if you need some let me know. As far as the amount you need I will assume your camper is set up the same as mine and the windows are the same size. The sides take close to 5 each and the door is close to 4 for a total of 14 if you have a U-Haul this should be right. Sorry to take so long to get back to you but I had a lot of trouble logging in.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:51 AM   #41
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ups just delivered all my new weather stripping.....hopefully I'll pop out the windows on saturday morning & give this a whirl!
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:36 PM   #42
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I've just finished rebuilding my UHaul windows but have not installed them yet. I wanted to document a few things to help others in the future.

Incidentally, I chuckled when I read about using the butter knife as I have a nice, complete set of tools. But to hedge my bets I picked up two for $1 at the Dollar store. They turned out to be the perfect tool for installing the channel liner. The handle presses down the center strip and the rounded blade tucks in the lip.

Materials needed:

Side windows (each window):
82" of the locking outer seal 75000473
82" of the locking strip 75000687
64" of the channel liner 75000639
18" of pile divider bar seal CR Laurence A11430B

Rear window:
103" of the channel liner 75000639
Butyl tape holds it in
18" of pile divider bar seal CR Laurence A11430B

Door Window:
64" of the locking outer seal 75000473
64" of the locking strip 75000687
50" of the channel liner 75000639
18" of pile divider bar seal CR Laurence A11430B

Initially I completely disassembled the rear window, but found that it is not really necessary to remove the fixed glass on any of the windows. You can scrape out the old channel, dirt and old glue and slide the new channel down the sides of the moveable pane. It helps to use the glass to grip the channel liner as you slide it - move the glass back and forth. Use soapy water to help the channel liner move. Tuck in the side "lips" thoroughly once its is in place, especially in the corners.

One tip - the screws that hold the frame together tend to be rusted in. You don't want to break these off or strip the Philips head. Squirt them with penetrating oil, heat the aluminum frame with a heat gun or hair dryer, try tightening as well as loosening the screws to break them free. If the screwdriver wants to slip, get a little tube of valve grinding compound (auto parts store) and put it on the screwdriver tip. It makes it grip like crazy.

First picture is of outer seal and channel liner. Second picture is the pile seal on the vertical divider between the panes.
Attached Thumbnails
UHaul Window seals-page-001.jpg   A11430B_Divider Bar Seal.jpg  

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