Maintenance & Restoration

Thomas G. · 06-01-2012, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theman

...............
By the way, I saw that you did put a gas fridge. To you have some pics about your side wall mouth. this is the project I will be working on this WE.

thanks

Fred

Fred, I posted a few pictures of the refrigerator installation process including the open vent holes in this thread: UHaul CT13 Updates Complete

I'd be glad to answer any other questions about the installation.

Thomas G. · 07-11-2012, 09:40 AM

UPDATE:

I finally got my side windows to quit leaking. First I rolled a thin cylinder of butyl putty under the rubber on the outside edge to seal the rubber to the fiberglass, but still had a small leak.

I attempted to do the same thing between the rubber and the aluminum frame, but the rubber is just too stiff to get the putty in. To test that this area was indeed leaking, I used some temporary strippable caulk to seal the gap. (If it didn't work, I wanted to be able to get rid of it.)

Amazon.com: Dap 18324 Seal 'N Peel Removable Caulk, 10.1-Ounce: Home Improvement

Now that I have found the problem area, I need to figure out a way to permanently seal it.

My advice to anyone rebuilding their windows is to use black butyl caulk inside the H cross section weather strip to seal to the body and to the window frame on the outside portion.

theman · 07-13-2012, 06:04 AM

Tom,

Thanks for the update. As for my side, I did as you said and cut out the draining hole from the felt. That made a huge difference and no more water coming from that side. I did not try the butyl solution but with after some days in the sun it seems that the windows gasket as tighten so no more water is coming in even in heavy rain.

Fred

Thomas G. · 07-13-2012, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theman

Tom,

Thanks for the update. As for my side, I did as you said and cut out the draining hole from the felt. That made a huge difference and no more water coming from that side. I did not try the butyl solution but with after some days in the sun it seems that the windows gasket as tighten so no more water is coming in even in heavy rain.

Fred

Fred, that is great to hear. I wasn't getting much of a leak - maybe a teaspoon - but that ends up on the pillow - an unwelcome greeting!

I'm skeptical that the rubber seal can reliably seal the total circumference to both the fiberglass wall and to the aluminum frame. The front / rear window design with the clamping ring is a much more robust design IMHO.

hueman · 09-05-2012, 10:38 AM

Your post was terrific, I rebuilt my windows but can't find a source for the outer gaskets. Where did you find them?
Thanks, Steve

Marty D · 09-05-2012, 12:12 PM

I have a company name at home that I can give to you. Only problem, all of the companies i tried make you to buy 50 foot rolls of the gasket and the locking spline. I have a lot left over that I would sell to you by the foot for what I paid per foot plus shipping. PM me if interested in buying. I'll still get that name and address for you.

Marty D

Thomas G. · 09-05-2012, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hueman

Your post was terrific, I rebuilt my windows but can't find a source for the outer gaskets. Where did you find them?
Thanks, Steve

If you read through the thread, there are several sources mentioned.

Here is one in top post:

Uhaul Side Windows

Key is the part number, with that you can search the web and find alternate sources. I ended up buying someone else's excess.

knighth001 · 09-05-2012, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

Did you cut the drain holes in the U channel? That is very important.

Tom, do you happen to have a picture? I've got a similar sounding leak on my door window where it seems to come over the groove where the window closes down into. It seeps under the rivetted part that holds the screen. I've checked my two drain holes on the outside, they do not seem to be blocked. Trying to figure out exactly which part is the U channel you're referring to? Wondering if I should drill some more drain holes in the frame to help. The leak is pretty constant when it's raining...

Thomas G. · 09-06-2012, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knighth001

Tom, do you happen to have a picture?

Sorry, I don't

Quote:

I've got a similar sounding leak on my door window where it seems to come over the groove where the window closes down into. It seeps under the rivetted part that holds the screen. I've checked my two drain holes on the outside, they do not seem to be blocked. Trying to figure out exactly which part is the U channel you're referring to? Wondering if I should drill some more drain holes in the frame to help. The leak is pretty constant when it's raining...

The U channel is the black fuzzy part that the glass rides in to keep it from touching the metal. It doesn't really make a water tight seal, it stops direct water flow, which then runs down the glass and into the bottom of the metal channel. On the sides and door window the inner and outer channel dividers are of equal height, so if the water level in the bottom channel gets too high, it can overflow inside. The purpose of the drain holes is to drain water out fast enough so that overflowing does not occur. These drain holes must reach all the way back into the inside channel, through the front U channel fuzzy liner part. You can open the window and inspect the U channel to see if it has been cut properly and is open for water flow.

You should also have a piece snapped into the outer channel on the outside of the window. This piece keeps excessive rain from hitting the channel directly. You can buy the piece linked below and trim the flap length to almost nothing.

Prime-Line Products/Slide-Co 11639 Bug Seal Replacement - 7' - Amazon.com

Donna D. · 09-06-2012, 02:55 PM

Now EVERYBODY who's reading this thread, needs to read this one: New old stock uhaul side windows

mary and bob · 10-04-2012, 02:24 PM

Here is what I believe to be the correct weatherstrip to use on the side windows, purchase at Perfectfit.com. I used the AS-1456 weatherstrip and the AS-789B lock strip. The original Uhaul weatherstrip has one groove that measures 3/16" wide and one that is 1/4" wide, this is the same as the As 1456. The AS 1456 overall width however is a little less than what Uhaul used and will not completely cover the two 1/8" drilled holes on the top of the window frame, so they will have to be sealed with some type of caulk. Use Lisle 47000 lock strip tool,

Thomas G. · 10-23-2012, 03:40 PM

Bob sent me a sample of the weatherstrip that he used so I took a thin slice and compared it to a thin slice of the weatherstrip that I used. I was measuring with a dial caliper and the rubber is very flexible, so take the dimensions with a grain of salt.

h.mike · 10-23-2012, 04:12 PM

does anyone know if the weathstrip on a U Haul CT 13 door is the same as the side windows?

mary and bob · 10-23-2012, 04:15 PM

The weatherstrip that I used is Perfectfit # AS1456, their specs are one groove is 3/16" wide and the other is 1/4" wide. I believe Tom used the AS1488 which is spec'd at both grooves being 1/4" wide. I used the AS1456 because the Uhaul wall thickness is 3/16" thick, or .188" roughly. When the lock strip is installed it squeezes the grooves tighter to the wall and the window frame. I was mainly interested in the "tall" measurement because of the two small 1/8" drilled holes near the top of the window frame that the AS1456 doesn't cover. I caulked over them and have no leakage. I'm not sure if the AS1488 will cover them. I'm happy with what I used, but everyone else can decide for themselves. Wait, I just said most of this a couple posts back, but sometimes I repeat myself, so I'll blame it on getting old!! Hope we have provided some useful info and not more confusion.