Uhaul signal lenses, how to remove. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-21-2012, 07:13 PM   #1
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Red face Uhaul signal lenses, how to remove.

Does anyone know how to remove the lenses for the signal lights on the Uhaul CT13? Especially the upper ones. I would like to clean them and replace bulbs and reseal them. The screws are rusted and finding it difficult to remove. I don't want to break the lenses trying to take off so just thought I'd ask you wise ones. Thanks
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:57 PM   #2
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Diane, do you mean the rear tail lights?

I took mine off today and after the 4 screws were out, they just came off. If someone glued yours in, it may take some finesse.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Diane, do you mean the rear tail lights?

I took mine off today and after the 4 screws were out, they just came off. If someone glued yours in, it may take some finesse.
I tried my best to remove the upper ones today and the screws were rusted. So I may have to cut them off with the handy dandy Dremel tool.
Thanks Again Thomas!
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:17 PM   #4
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I tried my best to remove the upper ones today and the screws were rusted. So I may have to cut them off with the handy dandy Dremel tool.
Thanks Again Thomas!

Not sure we are the same page. The lens is one piece with amber on top, red on bottom, glued together. If the plastic insert in the fiberglass is spinning when you turn the screw, you want have to have someone hold it inside with pliers. Or won't the screw turn at all?
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:30 PM   #5
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Diane, the lights on the top corners of the trailer are the running lights. Are they the ones you're talking about? Since you can't get to the back of the running lights, you may have to try drilling the heads off the screws, then pull the lights off and then remove the screw shafts and the plastic anchors. For the taillights, you'd do what Tom G has just described.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:58 PM   #6
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Diane, the lights on the top corners of the trailer are the running lights. Are they the ones you're talking about? Since you can't get to the back of the running lights, you may have to try drilling the heads off the screws, then pull the lights off and then remove the screw shafts and the plastic anchors. For the taillights, you'd do what Tom G has just described.
Right Pam, I am talking about the running lights. Sorry If I wasn't clear enough. I have a dremel tool and a bunch of cutting blades. HA, I have never used this tool this much ever before the CT. It has really come in handy for cutting the rusted bolts off!
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Not sure we are the same page. The lens is one piece with amber on top, red on bottom, glued together. If the plastic insert in the fiberglass is spinning when you turn the screw, you want have to have someone hold it inside with pliers. Or won't the screw turn at all?
Thomas the screws do not turn at all. Seems someone before me has stripped the inside head of the screws as well. I will be getting to the lights you are speaking of last as right now am trying to clean the "Running lights", replace bulb and seal in case they might be a leaking point. Water...I got it! Kinda like a boat in the water, only in reverse, water in a boat.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:10 PM   #8
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Seems like you should just be able to pop the plastic lenses off the running lights without removing the whole fixture...any thoughts?
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:38 PM   #9
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If you want to take off the lenses, you don't have to remove the whole light assembly. But if you need to take the screws out in order to remove the lenses, then you might have to use a drill bit and 'drill' the heads off the screws.
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:51 AM   #10
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There is a notch on the end of the lens by the screw to get a flat screwdriver in to pop off the lens. I have a air powered die grinder with a thin cut off wheel that I sometimes use to grind a slot in a damaged screw head to get it out, other times cut the head off. The marker lights have a ground wire under one screw, under the light, clean it up with some fine sandpaper. The screw goes into those plastic inserts, which can be bought locally. Some of the inserts on my lights turned, so I just sealed around the light. The light base has half round notches for the wire to come out if so desired, so that is the possible leakage point. Replacement marker lights are available from Uhaul for a few dollars each but they don't say Uhaul on them in case you are doing a 100 point restoration, [I know you're not]. I bought a couple when I placed an order as shipping is free when you buy over $25. I have impact driver tools for removing tough screws, but wouldn't dare use it on a fiberglass trailer. Bob
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:04 AM   #11
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I just looked up the lights, $2.10, or just the lens for $.75
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:28 AM   #12
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Bob nailed it. I coincidentally had my clearance lights off yesterday, so I'm up on them.

There is a notch both on the side and the end of the colored lens. I used the widest screwdriver blades that would fit in the slots and simultaneously twisted both the side and end points to minimize the stress on these old sun baked lenses. As Bob said, the new ones don't have a UHaul logo.

A few pointers on getting out frozen screws.

Make sure your screw driver bit is not damaged, especially for power screwdrivers which tend to spin and round off. They are cheap to replace.

Try tightening a screw just a little, then reverse it, then re-tighten until it loosens.

Use penetrating oil and let it soak in for a few hours.

Pick up a little tube of valve grinding compound at an auto parts store. Apply a small amount between the screwdriver bit and the screw head. It really makes the bit bite in.

Left handed drills can be really handy. As you drill in the top of a screw the action of the drill is actually trying to unscrew it. Often the combination of the heat, vibration and torque will start the screw backing out. 13 Piece Left-Hand Drill Bit Set
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:32 AM   #13
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I forgot to add, if none of your clearance lights are working, the first place I'd look is at the ground wire which attaches to the frame where the wires come through the floor. Mine was all rusty. I am running a separate ground wire from the trailer light connector back to the inside wiring, as using the frame as a ground is inherently problematic.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:38 AM   #14
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Tom: good info on the ground wire, I have one attached to the base of the propane tank mount, I wasn't aware of the one near where the wiring goes through the floor. I assume you mean at the rear of the trailer? I'll check it out. Bob
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