Updates some Randy's works with photos. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-25-2013, 05:56 PM   #1
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
Ontario
Posts: 355
Updates some Randy's works with photos.

Due to time limit, I would like to share with members some of my works recently. First thing is putting the frame back to the shell after some adjustments as results of good feedbacks from forum's members( Reinforcement and change position of rear bike rack receiver, lift the spare wheel housing a few more inches for better clearance). Taking door off for re-inforcement of hinges( adding alumin plates from inside and changing all to stainless steel hinges' bolts) plus some minor body works. Also complete housing of electrical panel with AC/DC fuses....
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:02 PM   #2
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Randy, I'd really like to see what you did with the hinges.

You have not mentioned the belly band. Are you aware of the issues around this? Many members have completely removed it and glassed over the seam. This is my next job, then the door.
Trillium Belly Band
Trillium Belly Band
Trillium Renovation
Trillium Belly band
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:03 PM   #3
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Good Work Randy, thanks for the pictures. You are talented.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:18 PM   #4
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Lookin' good, Randy!

I'd like to see more detail on the hinges, too...and where in the trailer are you going to put the power center?

Francesca

P.S.

Per belly band: if it's not leaking anywhere in that area, my advice is to leave it alone!

F.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:42 PM   #5
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...Tomorrow it will be sunny and all resin/f.G works will be dry, I 'd put back the door with all 6 stainless steel bolts after alignment. I will post more photos from inside at hinges as David Tilson would like to see. About the home-made electrical pl, it will be located above the main circuit breaker(under the sink). Due to the closeness with water(sink), the whole pl will be put inside a plastic box which was an ice compartment of a thrown-away fridge. BTW, I am building a fresh water tank with 55liter volume(adding fittings, supply/drain hoses) and the following photos will be future location of this tank. In order to do that, the rear dinnet area will become Ushape with shorter table. i also intend to make a front dinnet with other table without sacrificing the bunk bed....Wish I got the time...
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:53 PM   #6
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Sounds good!

Here's a tip per aligning the door:

Don't drive yourself crazy trying to line up the left side belly band/door band evenly- it's NOT possible.

All Trilliums and even their offspring share that defect- it never did and never will line up. Examples below- it lines up fine on the right side, but never the left.

Francesca





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Old 04-25-2013, 07:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Randy, I'd really like to see what you did with the hinges.

You have not mentioned the belly band. Are you aware of the issues around this? Many members have completely removed it and glassed over the seam. This is my next job, then the door.
Trillium Belly Band
Trillium Belly Band
Trillium Renovation
Trillium Belly band
..Thanks, David to let me know about belly band. I am not aware of it . When it comes to these works, I would let you know in details. I also stocked all kinds of good rubber seals, from doors, windows which came from cars and big trucks, so I figure out I would get minimum chance of door leaks. These tubular rubber seals would be used for my final project of...Weather friendly window A/C Snap-on. This issue I already sketched on...paper and the only time I used that for up-stair room's window A/C...
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:06 PM   #8
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Name: Randy
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Thankyou Francesca. I guess I must misunderstand David Tilson comment ab belly band to rubber door seals...Most of Trillium have mis-alignment at their doors. But this particular one of mine, the previous owner badly installed it and 2 hinges of the door had...3 different types of screws/bolts with badly rusty state. I did post to the forum the very first photos of the door when the previous lost the key and added other door latch with bad alignment of the door..
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:23 PM   #9
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Just a though regarding those hinges. If you have stainless and aluminum touching without any paint, you will likely end up with galvanic corrosion in fairly short order.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thinh View Post
Thankyou Francesca. I guess I must misunderstand David Tilson comment ab belly band to rubber door seals...Most of Trillium have mis-alignment at their doors. But this particular one of mine, the previous owner badly installed it and 2 hinges of the door had...3 different types of screws/bolts with badly rusty state. I did post to the forum the very first photos of the door when the previous lost the key and added other door latch with bad alignment of the door..
Randy, Take a look at the four links I posted it is all explained much better by the people who have done it. I just thought it looks like you are going to paint, and if you are going to correct this design flaw, it should be done before you paint. I guess the belly band is only a design flaw if you consider something that lasts more then twenty years, a flaw.
To understand the problem, it is necessary to describe how they join the top half of the trailer to the bottom half. The belly band was used to line up the top half to the bottom half. This construction method is still used by Trillium / Outback, but they use stainless steel hardware, I think. In your trailer they riveted through the belly band into some metal plates that were, I think, about 4cm x 2cm, (~2”x1”). There is still a 1cm, (1/2”) gap between the two half’s. Then they ran a bandage of fibreglass and resin around the inside, closing off the gap from the inside. The belly band hides this seam. It is perfectly sealed, for about 20 to 30 years.
The problem is that water gets into the gap that the steel plate sits in. Since we live in Canada, a place that freezes every winter, the ice expands in that space and forces it open a little. The water also causes the mild steel to rust. The aluminum rivets don't help either. Year after year the pocket that the steel plate is sitting in gets bigger and bigger. Eventually it ruptures into the inside of the trailer and you have a leek. The Ensolite starts to separate from the water that is now leaking in behind it, and freezing in the winter. There is a gap between the Ensolite and the fibreglass just under the belly band. Water travels through this. It's a mess. These links discuss how to fix it, and prevent it from ever happening.

Trillium Belly Band
Trillium Belly Band
Trillium Renovation
Trillium Belly band
1978 Trillium 4500 restoration ...
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:34 AM   #11
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
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...Thankyou so much David ab your advice and other member in respect to stainless steel vs alumin. The first time heard of "belly band" I got no clue at all. Thru David's links, I found out what is it about and having my closed up inspection. It turned out I might be OK to save those works, because mine looks very good all around with shiny rivets' heads inspite after those years. The following photos show you my belly band after the plastic mold taken off and also my door's hinges...
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:39 AM   #12
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The calking above the band is a good idea. It keeps the water from getting into the pockets created by the metal plates. It is however, a sign that a previous owner may have already had leaks.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:42 AM   #13
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Name: Randy
Trailer: 1980Trillium 1300
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Here is the photo of my door instead of water tank I mistook posting wrong: The photo of the door in...upside down position, sorry!....
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