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05-30-2018, 02:09 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Kayla
Trailer: Trillium
Saskatchewan
Posts: 3
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Used Silicone on Trillium windows, help!
Hi there,
Recently bought my first 1973 Trillium trailer, and had no idea what I was getting myself into. I found water under the dining benches and figured it was coming form the windows, as the PO had just redone the belly band not long ago. I did a couple quick internet searches and found people saying 100% silicon is a good sealant to use around the perimeter of the windows. I got trigger happy and went to town, doing the perimeter of ALL my windows ... fast forward to now, when I have time and start reading, I found that I have done a big NO NO.
My question is, should I be attempting to remove all the silicone and re-seal my windows? What is the best tool/cleaner to remove silicone. I am feeling pretty defeated.
I just wanted to be able to take it out camping right away!
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05-30-2018, 02:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,137
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Yep, you will be removing all that silicone, then pulling the offending window. I would not be surprised is the wood internal framing is bad, so you will likely be making new pieces there. Then butyl tape. Expect to do all the windows eventually.
There are several threads on repairing these windows, and lots of Trillium experts here (not me).
On silicone, I would start with these threads:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...bad-49621.html
And on Trillium windows:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ead-65342.html
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05-30-2018, 02:38 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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There are those that do not like it and those that use it. Now that you have already used it I would just forgetaboutit and go camping.
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05-30-2018, 03:22 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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questions
Kayla, I am in the middle of re-doing the center band AND the rear window on my Trillium 4500. Doing this after "temporarily" re-sealing the center band but still experiencing leaks in the rear corners and front right corner during heavy rainstorms. This time, I am doing the full center band treatment (remove aluminum trim, grind out the rusty steel plates, and patch/seal the exposed seam, then paint it. Also, the rear seam of the 4500 (only) has a plywood strip backing the seam, and the plywood strip was wet and rotted away. This forced me to remove the rear window in order to remove the remains of the plywood strip and replace it.
So here is the question: How did the previous owner of your Trillium repair the center band? Did they permanently patch and seal the exposed seam? This would ensure no water would get through the center band.
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05-30-2018, 03:24 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,137
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+100 I wonder how that belly band was "repaired" as well. There are plenty of belly band repair threads too.
Between the windows and the belly band, you might think Trilliums are bad news. They are not, they are one of the best of the older vintage trailers. So once repaired, you are going to have a very nice rig!!
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ead-59580.html
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05-30-2018, 03:43 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Name: Kayla
Trailer: Trillium
Saskatchewan
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the responses!
I am a bit nervous to do the repair myself, as I do not have a dry indoor place to do the repairs. I know There is Trillium Trailers in Calgary, AB that will do them which maybe be worth the expense to me. May have to consider that.
I have no idea how they repaired the belly band, this was relayed to my wife when she went to pick up, the belly band is still there though so they did not permanently remove it and fill the holes like I have seen done.
We are learning as we go, I am trying not to get overwhelmed. I have a week off in July that I planned on doing most of the work.
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05-30-2018, 04:04 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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pinpointing leaks
I have done a lot of "hose testing" to try to pinpoint leaks. So, for example, if I suspected water might be coming in around window frames or through the center band, I would first shoot water at the center band all the way around the camper, then check for water inside. Also, if water is continuing to come in through center band fastener holes, it can migrate around the band to any fastener holding the band!
I also discovered water coming in through the fresh and grey water fittings, and replaced those fittings.
We've gradually fixed all of the problems over the past (almost) three years, while still putting 10,000 miles on the camper.
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05-30-2018, 04:40 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Bigfoot Silver Cloud -1988
Posts: 1,543
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I'm with Darwin on this. If your sealing job worked, go camping this summer and worry about repairing things in the fall.
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05-30-2018, 05:19 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Name: Kayla
Trailer: Trillium
Saskatchewan
Posts: 3
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Update!
We just had a heavy rain storm and my wife went to check, there are holes drilled through the fiberglass where the taillight is and the tail light has pulled away from the body. There was water coming through three screws and two holes! I am not 100% sure how to fix that and haven’t seen it myself yet to asses but it is good to know where the water is coming from.
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05-30-2018, 05:28 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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My approach with the taillights and other exterior lights is to bed the back of the light fixture with butyl tape before re-attaching it. Also, I use stainless steel machine screws with washers and nylock nuts to secure the exterior light fixtures. By using nylock nuts, I don't have to use lock washers and I don't have to torque the screw extremely tight. Just tight enough. That reduces the possibility of cracking the fixture and the fiberglass.
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05-30-2018, 05:30 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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The other popular sealant used on the FG body is polyurethane sealant. That also works very well.
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05-30-2018, 05:32 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
The Mountains of North Carolina
Posts: 4,137
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I’d spend some time reading threads right now. Randy Bishop and Dave Tilston have both posted a lot of quality information.
If you can stop the water influx, camp this summer and develop a repair strategy. Butyl tape is your friend.
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05-30-2018, 05:32 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayla Wiebe
I am a bit nervous to do the repair myself, as I do not have a dry indoor place to do the repairs. I know There is Trillium Trailers in Calgary, AB that will do them which maybe be worth the expense to me. May have to consider that.
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Ummm.... you may want to rethink visiting Trillium, (Outback) in Calgary:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ice-75547.html
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...iew-84603.html
Some pretty unhappy customers.
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06-10-2018, 03:28 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1982 Burro
Posts: 9
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use bigger screws
Also when you reset the windows after cleaning them and setting them in butal puddy I would us a little larger screws when you replace the window so you can put a little more torque on the crews.
Noel
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