Ventura door thickness? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-26-2016, 09:44 AM   #1
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Name: Patricia
Trailer: 1975 Ventura
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Ventura door thickness?

I need to make a new door for my Ventura and do not know the thickness of the original door. If you have a trailer with an original door, could you please let me know the depth.
Thank you
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:30 PM   #2
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Hi Patricia,
I just measured mine and it's approx. 1 1/4". It's the best I can do right now without peeling off all the trim (it adds some thickness to the edges).
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:39 PM   #3
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Thanks

Thank you for taking the time.Tht is very helpful.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:05 AM   #4
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Thank you for taking the time.Tht is very helpful.
Hi Pat ! How is the restoration going ? Pat
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:16 AM   #5
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A few years ago I built a Ventura door from scratch, only reusing the aluminum external flanges/framework.

It looks like they started with a typical residential hollow-core door slab and just rough-cut for the lock and window.

The difference was the thickness, rather than 1-3/8" it was 1-1/8" - that's my memory, don't take that as fact without measuring!

Anyway, I sawed wood strips to the appropriate thickness and glued and nailed the pieces to pre-cut wood panels, paying attention to reinforce around the lock and new (fixed/non-opening) window.

For the exterior I sourced a sheet of powder coated sheet metal.

Overall length I shortened by 1/8" to allow an air space and drainage gap at the bottom flange to reduce moisture buildup and rot. I cut plastic spacers to make up the difference.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:08 PM   #6
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Very helpful

So the original was just hollow core and it was painted? I had assumed that it had fg facing on it.
That is pretty much what I had thought of doing but it is always nice to hear from someone who has done it before. Do you remember where you found the sheet metal, what type of business?
I am a bit confused about the 1/8 in off the bottom. Did that not just let water in? Where were the spacers used?
I was going to post about the hinge as well. Do you remember if it was a continuous piano hinge? That is what is on the frame, fastened by rivets. Do you think that is original? It is slightly bent, a bit rusty and stiff. I can't decide whether to try and replace it or not.
Thanks.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:18 PM   #7
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To Linda and Pat. I am plodding along. I am starting to rebuild the framing on the inside and I have the new floors down. I have all the windows out and have polished them. I have been working on the belly band.
I have a terrible habit of posting replies on other peoples' threads and then going into my progress (when it is relevant). I have to stop hijacking but once I have, I forget to go to my reno thread and do updates because I feel like I am repeating myself. My only excuse is that I am new to this forum thing.
I am actually camping in my van in Minnesota tonight in order to do some shopping for trailer stuff and on the way back have to pick up things ordered from Vintage trailer and other places for my van and the trailer at a parcel depot. So I am having a bit of a break from the work but not from thinking about it.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:08 PM   #8
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Trailer: 13 ft Ventura
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Originally Posted by Patricia D. View Post
So the original was just hollow core and it was painted? I had assumed that it had fg facing on it.
That is pretty much what I had thought of doing but it is always nice to hear from someone who has done it before. Do you remember where you found the sheet metal, what type of business?
I am a bit confused about the 1/8 in off the bottom. Did that not just let water in? Where were the spacers used?
I was going to post about the hinge as well. Do you remember if it was a continuous piano hinge? That is what is on the frame, fastened by rivets. Do you think that is original? It is slightly bent, a bit rusty and stiff. I can't decide whether to try and replace it or not.
Thanks.
The original exterior facing is sheet metal, not fiberglass, glued to the door panel. The interior side is a pre-finished wood panel. My pic shows the original door (still in the trailer) with the metal facing and hardware stripped out. It's dry-rotted on the bottom from water entering through the window frame, amongst other points of ingress.

I got the new sheet metal at business called "Metal Mart", a franchise I think. But the metal should be available at other commercial hardware outlets.

The 1/8 air gap allows the bottom of the door to drain and stay dry. Water always runs downhill. Several plastic spacers, the size of a nickel, maintain the space between the bottom frame piece and the wood door.

Leave the piano hinge riveted to the trailer body alone and screw the door to the active leaf of the hinge. It can be straightened out good enough by squeezing the kinks between Vice Grips and a small block of wood. These hinges occasionally need a bit oil to swing easily.
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