Volara - Closed cell foam for insulation - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 12-03-2009, 10:08 PM   #15
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I can't remember if you've ordered samples from IR, but when I requested mine they were able to send different thicknesses and densities. I got three samples, and they were each about 2.5" x 6", nicely packaged.
Raya,

You are welcome. Yes, I did get samples from IR. I got a book with small samples of their entire line and a couple of larger samples of non-ensolite.

From the samples the medium density ensolite that comes in black and tan would be the best. I'm going to order the tan - less expensive and easier to paint over in a light color. I have tried 3/8' samples of different foams and am still torn between 1/4 and the 3/8". The 1/4" would be easier to handle but the 3/8" would give better insulation, both heat and cold.

When I get more info will keep you informed. When I get the Fiber Stream insulated I'll post some snaps...

Enjoy the dialog and respect your input , more later.
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:38 PM   #16
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Great info here Tom and Raya. Thank you for posting. I'm still feverishly grinding off great big globs of construction adhesive. There is light at the end of the tunnel though. I have also realized that I also need to do something about a sagging roof. I have a plan for that though. I am going to cut a couple of ribs from 3/4" fir plywood in the shape the roof should be. I'll glue it into place with a two part epoxy glue and hope for the best. As for the Ensolite, after reading your posts, I am leaning towards ordering from IR Foams too. I am going to to ask for some samples. My problem is that I'm not sure which ones to ask for. Most of the numbers on the data sheets are meaningless to me. Tom, do you know what you will be ordering?
Thanks
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Old 12-06-2009, 09:50 PM   #17
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My problem is that I'm not sure which ones to ask for. Most of the numbers on the data sheets are meaningless to me. Tom, do you know what you will be ordering?
Rob,

I'm going with the [b]MLC NATURAL or the [b]AHC. You may want to look at those, the [b]MLC BLACK, and the [b]FBC. I'm waiting for larger samples of the MLC and AHC before I decide for sure.

Give them a call and ask for a large sample of each.

Could the roof sag be caused by removing bulkheads or other floor to ceiling supports? Pictures of the project?

Anyhow, sounds like you are really going at it. Have fun and good luck.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:07 PM   #18
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I too, would like to know more about your roof sag.

Without seeing it (so, limited info), but knowing you have bare walls and ceiling at the moment, I think I'd be more tempted to use fiberglass to install a stringer (or stringers), which you could then run the ensolite right over. Glueing a piece of ply up probably won't spread the support out as well, and it will protrude into your space more.

Can you show some pics or make a drawing? And, like Tom, I'm interested in whether any of your fiberglass cabinetry (particularly the kitchen/upper cabinets and closet) have been removed. Do you have a theory as to why it might have sagged, just from looking at it?

Raya
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:34 AM   #19
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The upper cabinets are still in place but the closet was removed by a previous owner. I can see that that is probably the cause of the roof sag along with a pile of snow on the roof. I am planning to build a new closet to replace the missing one but that alone won't repair the sag. The roof can be pushed back into its propper shape with a little pressure just in front of the roof vent but it won't stay when the pressure is removed. I think that replacing the closet and installing some sort of reinforcement will keep it in place. Raya I like your idea of glassing the rib. I have a little experience with this from repairing a gaping hole in my canoe. I'm not too concerned with losing a bit of headroom as the location of the new rib will be just in front of the roof vent which should line up with the edge of the bunk. Should be out of the "traffic" area. There is another less serious sag in the roof just over the dinette. This one will almost stay in place when I push up on it. I will probably do the same repair there and it would also be out of the traffic area. I had a good look at the exterior of the roof yesterday. There are some small surface cracks in the two roof sag areas. Once the roof is back to the propper shape I will probably mesh and glass these areas to reinforce and seal it. I wasn't planning to paint the exterior (thats for the future) but I'll prime the new glass on the roof at least. I'll try to post some pics of the roof sag later. I keep meaning to take pictures as I'm working on it but I get too involved in what I'm doing and forget to take the camera out.
The project is turning out to be a bit larger than I expected but I'm having too much fun with it to stop now. My goal for now is to get it at least ready for camping in the spring. It doesn't have to be pretty, just useable.
Thanks for all the posts. Photos coming soon...



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Old 12-22-2009, 06:14 PM   #20
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I finally received all the samples, (Volera, Specialty foams MLC & FBC) and have had time to paint and try them out. The Volera painted well, but it is the stiffest of the three samples and tears easily. Both the MLC and FBC seem to hold paint fine, but MLC tears much easier than the FBC. I can take the FBCs edge and pull hard in two different directions and it will stretch but not tear. I also pushed in with a screwdriver and the mark on the FBC will slowly come out, while the MLC is still indented. The paint I used was Sherwin Williams "Super Paint" Exterior acrylic latex. I asked the guy in the paint store for the most elastic paint they had and he gave me this and a concrete paint. Both worked, but the Super paint seemed to adhere to the foam better. I'm going to San Diego for a week and will check the samples after to see if they change any.
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Old 12-22-2009, 09:50 PM   #21
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Ah, but I love a controlled experiment

Thanks so much for keeping track so well and for posting the results so far

Raya
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:24 AM   #22
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I finally received all the samples
Danny,

Thanks for the great report! I just got my larger (6"x6") samples of MLC and AHC. I haven't had time to do the paint tests yet - yours are encouraging. I agree about the Volara, tears easily and my paint sample had cracks when the paint flexed (Behr super semi-gloss on Killz primer)

I like the looks of the AHC. It is even denser than the FBC. The MLC is just too soft - I figure that even with paint it would flex too much and eventually cause paint cracking, crazing or chipping. The AHC is so firm it would almost be like painting on Balsa wood. Raya, you mentioned your sample was grey - the AHC is the only grey ensolit that specialty has.

I got 3/8" thick samples. The AHC flexes fine, even though it is stiffer than any other foam. I think, though, for ease of use that I'll go with 1/4"

More after the paint dries.

Happy Holidays and Happy New Year
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:16 PM   #23
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Great info here folks. Thanks for all the posts.
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:17 PM   #24
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I finally received an email reply from IR Foams today. They are sending me a sample of the AHC and the F-cell. They also included a quote for 180sf of both products....wow!

Also, I was in Home Depot today and happened by the carpet undercusion display. I took a closer look at a product called ECO Foam. It is a coss linked polyurethane foam intended as an undercusion for carpet. I convinced the sales gilr to let me have a sample to take home. I ended up with a 4' x 6' sample to experiment with. I will post results as soon as I have tried it out.
Here's a link to the product.
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/...tial&s=true

Also www.ecohomeoptions.com
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:53 PM   #25
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I took a closer look at a product called ECO Foam.
Rob - I tried the Ecofoam and posted results a while ago (with pictures). What I found was was that the smooth skin did not lend itself to painting - the paint cracked with the slightest flex. Also, the burlap like packing has to be peeled before you can glue it - if you glue with the backing it separates from the foam leaving the backing on your wall and the foam free...

If you do a search on the forum for 'ecofoam' my results should pop up.

Also, try Cypress Foam in an Diego. They are the other ensolite distributor on the West Coast and their prices may be better than IR Foams.
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #26
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Rob - I tried the Ecofoam and posted results a while ago (with pictures). What I found was was that the smooth skin did not lend itself to painting - the paint cracked with the slightest flex. Also, the burlap like packing has to be peeled before you can glue it - if you glue with the backing it separates from the foam leaving the backing on your wall and the foam free...

If you do a search on the forum for 'ecofoam' my results should pop up.

Also, try Cypress Foam in an Diego. They are the other ensolite distributor on the West Coast and their prices may be better than IR Foams.
Tom - I remember reading your posts a while back and I just went back to see the photos again. It looks like a different product. The one I just got a sample of is a charcoal grey. Both sides have kind of a rough texture and don't apear to be skinned. The texture is a bit different on each side so I'll try gluing and painting both sides. I should have enough for a good experiment.
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Old 01-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #27
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Also, try Cypress Foam in an Diego. They are the other ensolite distributor on the West Coast and their prices may be better than IR Foams.

I could not find Cypress Foam in San Diego. I did find "Cypress Sponge" in Santa Ana. Are these two one in the same?
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:11 PM   #28
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Here's another pic of what I found today.
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