WalMart sells Haier AC units. Are they OK for campers? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-25-2008, 10:07 PM   #15
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Roy:
We have had discussions about these portable units before, probably pre-hack, but the skinny is: there should be an intake [b]AND an exhaust vent, both to the outside (two different paths) for such units to be effective. If you analyze what happens with [b]just an exhaust vent you will see that they are trying to pull the wool over your eyes.
Thank you Per,

In considering an A/C mod, what I've noticed about the portable units is that the hot half of the unit is on the bottom and cold on the top. Rather than the back and front of a conventional window shaker. I think it would be a much easier mod than what I've seen others have to do. It looks as though someone has already done what I had in mind:

I found a Portable Split Air Conditioner designed for trailers. @ 2750 BTU it would be about perfect for our little eggs.

The description reads:
Very easy to use, it does not need to be installed and it is an advantageous alternative to the present air conditioners designed for the caravans. Its cooling power of about [b]3000 BTU, with a [b]power consumption of 395 watts has been choosed like compromise between a very good cooling capacity and a low electric consumption that allows its use through the inverter connected to the battery of the camper itself. It is equipped with handy brackets to be applied to the windows of the caravan without any changes of them. It is provided with electronic control for the temperature and the speed of the fan, it can be used during the night at the lower speed (noisy lower than 49,8 d




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The company is in Italy, but they do have a contact listed as an agent in Texas:

<div align="center">[b]<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">MEXICO and USA</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%">[b]ANGEL BELTRAN CORPORATION</span> </div>
<div align="center"><span style="font-size:8pt;line-height:100%">1630 E. Paisano Sec. A</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:8pt;line-height:100%">79901 El Paso, Texas</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:8pt;line-height:100%">Contact person Mr Angel Beltran Sr. - Mr Angel Beltran Jr</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:8pt;line-height:100%">Tel. +1 915 5440054/55</span></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:8pt;line-height:100%">Fax. +1 915 5448326</span></div><span style="font-size:8pt;line-height:100%">e-mail: abcompany@dzn.com</span>

I'll email them and see what I can find out.

Roy
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:55 PM   #16
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2750 btu's would probably cover you up in your neck of the woods, but when it's 105+ our 5000 btu barely keeps up with it.
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Old 05-26-2008, 09:49 AM   #17
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Roy:

I agree with Greg that the rated BTUs on that unit would hardly make a dent even in a 13 footer unless it was well insulated and left on for a long time. Also you would hav to make sure an inverter could handle the startup current draw. The battery would still be drained quickly.

In checking my earlier post it seem that I was far from clear in what I meant: A conventional window AC has two distinct air paths. Path #1 takes outside air, transfers heat to it and exhausts air back to the outside. Path #2 takes the inside air, cools it and delivers it back to the inside.

We have seen the specs of some portables which use a single exhaust hose to do path # 1, but it means that the intake is sucked from the inside, which creates negative pressure inside the trailer. The air must come from somewhere, and it ends up as hot air being pulled in through leaks in the trailer. Counter-intuitive, and it doesn't really work. I think that might be a more complete description.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:50 PM   #18
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I agree with Greg that the rated BTUs on that unit would hardly make a dent even in a 13 footer unless it was well insulated and left on for a long time.
Per,

Thank you for the education.

I guess I'm the idiot for believing the experts in thinking that 50 BTU per square foot would cut it. I assumed since those #'s were for an 8' ceiling our campers would need only 75% of that because they were shorter, take off another 10% volume for benches, cabinets etc. we would be looking at about a 65% equivalency.

10 x 6 = 60 Sq ft.
60 x 0.65 = 39 sq ft equivalency
39 sq ft x 50 BTU / square = 1950 BTU

I thought that using 2/3 of the output of a unit might be efficient enough. Please excuse my faulty logic. I'll take your word for it and admit to my ignorace of Air Conditioning. I have no idea of what is required down South, furthest I've ever been is Cape Cod.

I do know that my 3000 BTU furnace pumps out way too much heat for my little trailer, after we warm up the trailer, I just turn it back to the pilot light to keep the edge off.

Roy
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Old 05-26-2008, 11:27 PM   #19
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Roy,

I'm sure those numbers from the "experts" assume a basic residential R factor of somewhere around R-19 in the walls and R-30 in the ceilings. I don't know what the R factor of our eggs are, but taint much so in real-egg life you can probably throw those calculations out. I too can heat my 13 egg on the 3000 btu setting on Mr. Buddy, but I gotta have 5000 btu AC to cool it. Go figure...

Again, if you never go into any hot climates you might get by on less.
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