Want the shine - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 09-07-2006, 03:05 AM   #15
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Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 532
Believe me, it will shine.
Suz Thanks for the advice and encouragement
I have read the link at Legacy and am thinking now if I got 50% results in 3 tries maybe in 3 more tries it will begin to bring out the inner shine.
It was good to see also that at one point you ran out of Starbright and went to a different product with no problem as I have heard that doin something like this without a good cleaning with soap and water may be a no-no or a waste of time .
I will go out today and get some Starbright polish with kerosene in it and some of that polish and keep at it.
Carple tunnel in both hands do not help my ambithions when no results are seen for so much effort but if any of you have seen my rewire job at
you can see that I do have that stick-to-it-ness as long as I can see results.
We are of to a camp rally with some Tin Canners but there are going to be some FGRV's there and even a Boler (a rearaty here in the States) and was hopeing for that shine before we go but it will have to wait and I may get a few more coats on before winter sets in
The wife is angry with me because I been messing with the gas lines and as of yet do not have the connection from my bottle to the regulator (which I moved back to it's original place on the shell) done yet.
I got a hose yesterday but it is about a foot too long and has males ends instead of female ends but I will get it all going before we leave tomorrow and who knows maybe another trip with polish & wax around and around again will give me another % or 2'

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Old 09-07-2006, 10:32 PM   #16
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 4,852
I have no experience with US fiberglass trailers, but I do have 30 years experience with fiberglass boats and the thing I can't understand is why nobody seems to polish the gel coat - I'm not talking about wiping wax onto it, but polishing the gel coat using a cutting compound, as a car body shop would do with car paint.

We never had any trouble doing this to wafer-thin racing boat gel coats: on a trailer with a normal commercial thickness of gel coat, I would expect to be able to do this at least three or four times. When finished, you get a gel coat that is like a new trailer fresh from the factory, unless you have scratches or nicks that do right through the gel coat.

Polishing is not light work and can only be done realistically using a proper geared electric polisher - they cost at least $400 here (but maybe $250 in US?), so it might be cheaper (and a lot easier) to pay a car body shop or a marina/boat workshop to do it with their polisher and their strong arms (the strong arms being needed to hold up the polisher).

Using wax afterwards is still sensible, just as it is on a new trailer.

Thank you for saying this Andrew

I got this video from the library and it looks easy enough. Basically it says wet sand with 320, 400, 500 then 600 grits followed by a gelcoat buffing compound. The video has an excellent section on colour matching as well as repairs. Seems that gelcoat does not change colour as it cures like paint.

I have not done this yet because I want to do the FG and gelcoat repairs (before & during my restoration). IMHO anyone that paints will be painting every 5 or so years. I really want to try to keep the body original.

BTW I seen a set of 4 DVD's on ebay for $50 USD, anyone care to split on the cost?

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Old 09-08-2006, 06:02 AM   #17
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Wet sanding is a very serious step and I wouldn't recommend that unless major repairs have been carried out. The last place I worked we had to wet sand the boat hulls because they had been cured in an oven and the pattern of the first cloth layer would 'print through' to the surface, but we only ever started at 600 grit and then worked through 800, 1000 and 1200 before polishing. I suggest you try just polishing to see if the sanding is really needed and, if it is, try starting at a higher grade than 320 to see if paper that coarse is really needed.

Anyone who wants to see if polishing will work can try doing a small patch by hand. Purchase a 'rubbing compound' for paint at an auto parts store - sorry, I can't give any trade names as they aren't the same here! Beware of liquid compounds - these are often much finer paint finishing products - a paste rubbing compound is my preferred choice. This is not a wipe-on/wipe-off product - a 6" by 6" square is about as much as you can do at one time by hand and that will require maybe 1 to 2 minutes of rubbing. Polishing something the size of a trailer door can be done by hand, but will take maybe half a day to do.

3M compounds for boat gel coat polishing are very good products that work quicker than most, though of course you do have to pay the usual 3M premium.

And, Roy, I second your comments about painting fiberglass - to me, it is just like painting over varnished wood - something only to be done as a last resort.

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Old 09-08-2006, 06:14 PM   #18
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Name: Chris
Trailer: Scamp Deluxe 16
Posts: 12

I've read several strong recommendations for PoliGlow, and will try it on our new 84 Fiberstream which has not been polished for many years and is very oxidized. Expensive--$60 on line for a kit including cleaner and the polish, but it is supposed to do a great job. Supposedly no rubbing or polishing once it is on. Hope it works.
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:47 PM   #19
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Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 ft
Posts: 7,317
PoliGlow looks good.

Just to give another product to take a look at, check out Sharkhide. Click on the Video. It is great on Aluminum & Fiberglass. My friend swears by it.
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Old 10-13-2006, 05:39 PM   #20
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Trailer: Boler
Posts: 6
I have read and used alot of the products suggested to clean the original top-coat of my 1980 13 Ft.Boler but I have yet found anything that will Keep the shine on.

When I find something that does shine ( A product containing a soap with a coconut oil in it) after a good buffing the next morning I awake to see more streaks and the dullness back . I have tried to put a wax on top of this shine but the shine is gone as soon as wax is buffed off of should I say stays in tiny cracks in top-coat.

I inquired about having it painted and that is out of the question at this time (no $$) All the hand scrubbing and buffing has taken off the chalky build up and color went from a dull white to a cream, but I want it to shine.

Please give me a name of a product that will give me and keep the shine on my Ladybug!!!! HELP!! MY ARMS ARE ABOUT TO FALL OFF
Gerry, we used something called nu glass, on our boler, made it look like new, was easy to apply and has stayed great.
We purchase it a Home hardware and building centre in canada. Not sure where you can get it in the U.S.A. It is in the boler stored at the lake, I will bring it home and give you the info off the label first chance I get
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Old 10-13-2006, 06:30 PM   #21
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Trailer: Boler 13 ft
Posts: 532
Gerry, we used something called nu glass, on our boler, made it look like new, was easy to apply and has stayed great.
We purchase it a Home hardware and building centre in canada. Not sure where you can get it in the U.S.A. It is in the boler stored at the lake, I will bring it home and give you the info off the label first chance I get
While down to an auto paint shop the other day getting a battery box welded on the tongue I asked the owner how much for a new paint job on the Boler and he kept eyeing my rusting out 95 Toyota truck and he said the money would be better spent else-where and he took out his car buffer and applied a bit of 3M polishing compond and in about a minute he had a spot about 2 foot around shinning like new and then he changed pads and applied a 3M wax-sealer and it was look I was going for. I told him he could have the job if he wanted it but he declined and offered to loan me the machine and he would get the products for me so this is what I plan to do.
I also plan to start a photo page dedicated to the improvements I have done to the trailer for all to see soon.

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