Warm refrigerator - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-23-2011, 05:25 PM   #1
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Warm refrigerator

My new to me Lil Bigfoots refrigerators freezer could make ice cubes but the main porrtion never went below 40 degrees.
I had removed it cleaned the burner and chimney and even let it set upside down for several days.
It dawned on me the trailer was not designed for the refer to work efficiently.
There was no way for the air flow to be directed over the cooling coils.
I built a ledge from the bottom of the upper vent opening to the upper coil and sealed every air inlet other than the bottom vent with insulation.
The air now moves by convection directly over the coils and out the upper vent.
I turned to gas on and turned the thermostat to max about 6 PM yesterday and about 11 AM it was down to 20 degrees in my refer.
Hope this helps others with a warm refer.
John
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:37 AM   #2
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Good tip and glad it worked for you.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:39 PM   #3
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Awesome!
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:49 PM   #4
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Removing heat from that coil really makes a big difference. For some reason manufacturers don't put in the recommended baffles. For really hot days a muffin fan is the next step. I hang one on the vent with paper clips and with gator clips to the battery.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:31 PM   #5
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A useful document made available by Bryant RV on refrigerator ventilation is Dometic's Vent Installation Instructions (a PDF).
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J View Post
My new to me Lil Bigfoots refrigerators freezer could make ice cubes but the main porrtion never went below 40 degrees.
I had removed it cleaned the burner and chimney and even let it set ...
I turned to gas on and turned the thermostat to max about 6 PM yesterday and about 11 AM it was down to 20 degrees in my refer.
Hope this helps others with a warm refer.
John
Ducting can really improve the efficiency, but why would you want 20F in the refrigerator compartment? 37-39 is pretty ideal. You can get a battery operated fan for the interior if there are cold spots. They run about a month on a couple of D cells.

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Matt
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt in SV View Post
Ducting can really improve the efficiency, but why would you want 20F in the refrigerator compartment? 37-39 is pretty ideal. You can get a battery operated fan for the interior if there are cold spots. They run about a month on a couple of D cells.

Regards,

Matt
I didn't know what was going to happen after I completed the baffle so I turned the thermostat to the coldest setting.
It's about 38 now.
Before the baffle 45 degrees was the coldest it would get.
John
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:24 PM   #8
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Warm refrigerator? Is it Lucas Brand? (Those who have owned English cars will get this)
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Old 11-05-2011, 02:19 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by BCDave View Post
Warm refrigerator? Is it Lucas Brand? (Those who have owned English cars will get this)
The Brits drink warm beer because they DO have Lucas refrigerators!!!

" Lucas - The Prince of Darkness "

BULLY!!!!!!
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:05 AM   #10
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LOL I recall on one of my old cars the Lucas wiring harness had 20 wires on it just to make the seat belt buzzer work! The horn would honk if I made a sharp right turn and smoke would come out of the turn single when turning left. It was a new car! The car did get a recall a couple of years after I sold it as it was apparently a ticking time bomb in so far as it might burst into flames due to wiring issues. LOL

A not so funny memory of that car is that the only local person who could keep the car running for me and who was able to figure out its various electrical issues went on to build the bomb that took down the Air India flight 182
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:59 PM   #11
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more pics would be great. not sure I'm grasping this
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Old 11-06-2011, 12:19 AM   #12
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No more pics. It's all put back together.
The pic is the bottom of the upper vent opening.
You can see the cover screw holes and 2 screw heads.
I attached a peice of 1x2 as a ledge just inside the opening with the screws you see in the pic.
I cut a peice of old 1/4 " paneling the width of the cabinet and deep enough to almost touch the upper coil on the back of the refer and glued and stapled it to the 1x2 on the inside of the vent opening.
Air flow is now directed ONLY over the coils.
John
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:12 AM   #13
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Pulled Perry's thread up because I'm starting the same type of project. Photos of the aluminum baffle which I fabricated and the huge, open chamber in which the fridge mechs reside follow. I intend to attach the baffle by replacing sheet metal screws in the upper side of the lower access door and thru bolting. The <1" pinch in the air column will come just below the upper condensation fins. The Bryant RV link mentioned above suggests that the furnace should be level "with the top of lower opening." I assume this means the mechanicals as the fridge body rests on the floor of the trailer. The mechs are roughly on level with the lower access door but no attempt was made to close off the "sump" below the stool upon which the mechs are mounted. Installing a sheet metal plenum to close off some of this space below, beside and above the mechs is not a simple task and requires removing the fridge box and mechanicals. I'm not willing to do that yet so am wondering what "insulation" I should use to both plug air leaks and also reduce the volume of this space. Is aluminum faced glass batt insulation an acceptable material. I assume there is some fire hazard in the area around the percolation coil. I'm going to use a 120vac muffin fan initiallly, perhaps buy a couple 12v if I get better performance than in the past. I realize that I may have a number of problems, dirty flue, badly adjusted flame, no "hot weather" resistor pigtail in the thermostat line, faulty thermostat. This fridge will cool acceptably on 120vac but immediately shuts down and warms up again. The propane maintenance problem is on the back burner UNTIL I get a positive indication that the fridge will function on electricity.

jack
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:53 AM   #14
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Jack, thanks for chiming in. I really need to do something like this in the Boler to help the fridge run better.
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