Warped Scamp Door - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-08-2006, 01:46 PM   #15
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Trailer: 2000 Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 15
I had the same problem with my door. I drilled 4 small holes in the bottom without going all the way thru. Then, Wa La, water started dripping out of the door. I was amazed at how much water came out. I simply opened the door all night and let it drain. The door didn't totally come back to shape, but it did come back pretty well. There is still just a little gap at the very bottom and I haven't noticed any more water over time.

I guess I'm confused but if you drill holes on the inside of the door, what happens when it rains. Does the water drain inside your trailer ans soak the carpet etc??

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Old 03-08-2006, 03:54 PM   #16
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Name: Con
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300/2003 17' Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 319
Well it looks like this discussion of problem doors is not going to go away so I guess it is time to put my two bits worth in.

(a) First off we have to understand some of the properties of Fiberglass. FG it's self is not a structurally strong product so it must be stiffened and reinforced with embedded plywood, wood frames or metalwork. If any of you ever get the chance to look around boat building, street rod body, shower and bath stall FG plants do it. You will learn a lot and see how they add some sort of stiffening in strategic places. A number of years ago my friend and I built molds (Plugs) to build race car parts and snowmobile skimmers and we embedded wood and metal for strength.

( When most of these FG trailers were built back in the 60's and 70's the designers and fabricators were reliying on the bonding of the inner and outer door skins to give these doors enough strengh to not warp. For example, they only used 5 horizontal wood strips in the Boler door, not for rigidty but to keep the two skins apart, much to my dismay when I opened it up. Time has shown that their theory was faulty. As FG ages it loses it shape and wants to flatten out. Some plastics are what is called in the industry "Memory Plastics" Plexiglass (Acrylics) is one of those. I have blow moulded and stretch moulded Plexi and if it didn't turn out right the first go, I could throw it back in the oven and it would return to a flat sheet.
FG may not be a memory plastic but there is enough evidence that it wants to flatten.
All most every older FG trailer I have seen, the door have flattened towards the bottom.
From comments here it appears the plants have sandwiched other materials in to the doors, many retaining water, quite often due to no drain holes in the bottom.

© The other problem that occurs on these doors is the hinges are bolted directly through the outer skin. As the years go by and the mileage piles up the hinge bolts start to elongate the holes in the skin. Next the door droops and doesn't fit the opening proeprly. Then the drooping and flattening door the weather stripping doesn't seal properly and you have another water problem. Even our Boler door sagged and it didn't have a lot of miles on it.

(d) Two other things I found with our door, and I believe this applies to most others:
Water leakage through the door latches and the window seal. Ours had nothing to stop water into the door latch. Solved that with a rubber gasket.Our window seal was still good but it was a matter of time before it leaked. All the windows on removall, the mastic was hard as rock.

(e) Most of the fixes I have seen on this forum are what I would consider bandaid solutions. I am not knocking anyone for trying, just that you may have only solved temporarily.
I am not saying my solution to fixing the door is the way to go but it has definately a big improvement in the fit, strength and sealing of the door. I had anticipated more problems and time involved when I started, but it took not that much time and went much smoother that I anticipated. The thing that took most time was finding the right bonding agent.
So if anyone else whats to tackle it, I will be glad to help with directions. Check out my pics on Webshots.

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Old 03-11-2006, 08:46 AM   #17
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Trailer: 2007 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 183
Hi all,
I just did a successful repair to my warped Scamp door. I traced the contours of the door frame onto plywood and built a mould. I cut saw kerfs in the bottom part of the door to give it flexibility and fitted it properly into the mould. Then I re-fiberglassed the bottom half with resin and 'cloth'. Oh happy days, it fits perfectly and is much stronger than the original. The hardest part was cleaning up the mess I made during the first 'fix'. I had to clean off all the flooring adhesive from re-upholstering. I also drilled drain holes across the very bottom on the inside, of course. I'm now heading to town to look for some suitable fabric to finish it. Now.......... come on Spring! Thanks for your responses.
In my mind this method is a very good strong repair. If you are willing to roll up your sleeves and really get into it, this should work well. I would also probably reglass the whole face of the door while I was at it. Fiberglass is easy to work with once you figure it out and buy the right sanders and sandpaper. Different cloth weights and multiple layers adds strength. It is wise to address the hinge areas while you are at it (there are many methods for that repair). I repaired a lot of areas on my Burro after I decided I was going to get real dirty and itchy!

The other item to remember is to keep water (rain/snow) from getting into the door/window areas. I have mine garaged but a carport or tarp would work as well. For any of us who have put a lot of time and money into rebuilding their older egg, storing it properly is a must for longevity.
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Old 03-11-2006, 12:28 PM   #18
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Trailer: 74 13 ft Boler and 79 17 ft Boler
Posts: 568
Well, well....I kinda like the old ideas that it`s not the fault of the door but of the trailer sagging and changing the arc of the trailer wall....it was described some time ago as pushing down on a balloon and the sides bulge.....who on this site was the person that straightened out the support square tubing somewhat along the interior hinge side of the door and cured the door problem that way??.......the door wasn`t touched......makes sense...my door is starting to open somewhat on the bottom of the hinge side and when the weather warms up I`ll try reshaping the square support......I believe the trailers I`ve seen, including my 13' Boler, usually have the lower front door edge appearing to be pulling away from the body.....the latch side is okay maybe because that side is supported by the closet inside and the body shape doesn`t change.......Benny
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Old 03-11-2006, 01:40 PM   #19
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Trailer: 2007 17 ft Casita Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 183
It may be somewhat of a engineering problem on many of the older eggs, but my door hinge side of the body also sagged. I welded a large 1/4" steel support with gussets under the entire door area and also towards the front of the trailer. I first jacked up the body as best I could to get that corner back to where it should be. The bodies do start sagging but the doors often have issues as well on some of the designs.
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Old 04-30-2006, 01:46 PM   #20
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Trailer: Scamp
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.... I first jacked up the body as best I could to get that corner back to where it should be. The bodies do start sagging but the doors often have issues as well on some of the designs.
What is this picture. Are you laying on your back shooting picture upward torward the bottom of the door? I know your down low on this shot cause I see the roof vent in the upper background.
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Old 09-08-2006, 03:04 PM   #21
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 66
The water in the door is caused by a leaking door window. I cut my door open, replaced the raunchy material with wood & installed a new window(I used the one used on the new Scamps) Scamp went to this window because the old windows that opened leaked causing the door problems..........Don Meyer
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:42 PM   #22
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Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 2
We repaired our warped Scamp door by drilling through the ridge on the side of the couch seat and through the door frame by the hinge and inserting a truss head screw with a flanged nut. We also put another screw about 4 inches back from the door. We had tried using wire as suggested in another post which helped some but not enough. The 2 screws pulled the side in and straightened the door right out.
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Old 10-14-2007, 03:25 PM   #23
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Name: Dan
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 566
Scamp has had a picture of how they build the Scamp door on their web site for quite some time:


Or go to www.scamptrailers.com and click on Rebuilding Scamp, then More Pictures.

Understanding how the door is built may provide ideas for better repairs.

-- Dan Meyer

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