Warped Scamp Door - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-22-2003, 11:06 AM   #1
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Warped Scamp Door

I have notice in the last couple of years the lower portion of the door has tended the straighten out and does not match the body contour leaving a gap of 1" plus. This gap not only lets in water and road debris when the trailer is under tow but lets in cold air and an occasional woodland critter when parked. The following photos show the gap and warping and my proposed method to recontour the door for a better fit and seal.
My question is. Has anyone ever encountered this condition and if so what steps did you take to correct it short of buying a new door.
I would also solict comments on what I propose to do.
Any thing will help.
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eccf48a4060fOut of contour Lower Left Door.jpg/> <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eccf4b01c9daLower Door showing gap when closed.jpg/> <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3eccf543c7530Method to recontour Scamp Door.jpg/>
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Old 05-22-2003, 12:09 PM   #2
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Scamp Door

Nevin,

I am concerned with two things. First that the stress will be moved to the rivets and cause stress cracks. Second the if you can bend steel one way it can bend back.

I like the basic ideal but I would use wood strips and fiberglass. First I would remove the door and the carpet to expose the fiberglass. Then using a scrape piece of card board draw a pattern of the contour of the edge of the opening on each side. I would then place blocks of wood under the door and weights on it to bend it to match the patterns. I would make sure the bottom edge was bent about 1/4 inch more than it should be to help keep it tight.

Now as you show in your picture you need to reinforce the lower part of the door. But I would make sure that I kept the reinforcement at least an inch back from the edges of the door and the floor. This will give you room to reapply a rubber gasket and not bind on the floor. Also I would use about four 1/4 X 1 in wood strips fiberglassed in place. The wood is only used to create curved fiberglass tubes, not for support. The fiberglass tubes provides the support. Put two or three layers of fiberglass over the area.

When it is dry remove the weights and it will retain its shape. Now you can put things back together and it will be better than new.

Good luck
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Old 05-22-2003, 12:43 PM   #3
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There are several possibilities here. First, Scamp recognizes the problem , saying that the fiberglass "relaxes" over the years, especially in hot climates. They recommend cutting some oak strips to fit the correct contour, and screwing through the door to mount them. You might create a towel rack or shoe rack or something and incorporate it into the stiffeners.

Second option - Scamp sells replacement doors. I think they're a couple hundred bucks. So, balance that against how much time you are willing to put in.

But, before you do anything, get out a step ladder and look at your roof. Does it sag? Older eggs especially are notorious for sagging roofs. If it is sagging, that is probably the problem, not the door. My door looked just like yours, maybe worse when I got it. When I replaced the front bulkhead (I have a front bath), and pulled the fiberglass wall back in to mount it all up, lo and behold, the door fits! What happens is: Think of a balloon. Put it on a table. Now, put your hand on top and flatten it. What happens? It gets shorter and wider. The same thing happens to your Scamp. As the roof sags, the camper bows out at the belly-band, and the bottom of the door pops out. It only happens at the bottom because the egg structure ends at the bottom of the door, and has a flex point there where it meets the floor.

How to fix it? The best fix is to remove the sag from the roof and pull the walls back in. That may or may not be practical. Re-contouring the door is another option, but it is really a band-aid, and doesn't address the cause of the problem. I'm assuming you have a front sofa? If so, consider cutting a profile board from oak or similar hardwood that will run from floor to ceiling, shaped to pull the belly-band in a bit. Mount it on the hinge side of the door by screwing through the metal door-mount post embedded in the wall (The metal post is supposed to prevent this problem, but isn't quite stiff enough).

Good luck!
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Old 05-22-2003, 12:49 PM   #4
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Warped Scamp Door

Ron : Thanks for your comments but I don't understand what you mean by "tubes" After the door is stressed to correct contour and the 1/4 x 1 wood strips applied and fiberglassed are these strips to match the contour by weighting them down or do they just form a chord from the lower edge up to about 18". In other words do you recommend they be laid vertically or horizontially? NCL
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Old 05-22-2003, 01:07 PM   #5
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Sag

Paul,

Good point. I agree with you. By all means try that first.


Nevin,

Lay them vertical. You can pre-bend them by wetting and let dry while bent or you can weight them down and fiberglass a couple of places to hold them. Then remove the weight and fiberglass the rest.

When the fiberglass is laid from the existing glass over the wood and back down to the existing it forms a higher area. This area is similar to half of a pipe or half of a tube. This is the way an area is reinforced in a boat to give it strength. Some people would even use half of a cardboard tube to get the same effect. The strength comes from the fiberglass at an angle.
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Old 05-23-2003, 05:45 PM   #6
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My thought is to make two or three "crescents" (actually semicircles with a chord) out of thick plywood, cut to the intended shape, and thru-bolt them vertically to the door to pull it back to the sharper curve (wood vertical, bolts horizontal). If I put some horizontal strips across the straight part of the cresents, they can hold shoes or flyswatters or something.

Pete and Rats
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Old 06-13-2003, 01:53 AM   #7
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this will lift your roof

Although I had quite a sag in the roof, and now I don't, it still didn't fix the door gap. I lifted the whole roof with a rack.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ee969e505ba4rack-above.jpg/>
I believe it is true that the shape of the door has relaxed and is causing this gap.

the rack also supports a cargo carrier
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ee96a4d34ef5rackdown.jpg/> <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ee96a6393591rack-up.jpg/>
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Old 06-13-2003, 10:51 AM   #8
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First I'm gonna try...

What I've learned about fibreglass tells me that heat is one of the things that will cause the relaxing or sagging.

I'm going to try removing the door, bending it past the correct shape and heating it. Somehow

I will post forum after I finish and let you know the results.

By the way, I found that the inner core of my door is pressed wood and not foam as shown in sketch above.
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Old 06-13-2003, 12:36 PM   #9
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I have an idea to remove the aircraft door, build a door jamb that fits to the outside of the camper, and mount a standard 26 x 70 RV door with screen door. Anybody have a reaction to that? My door doesn't fit too bad right now, but I just think the Scamp door design is poor - the hinges are too close together because of the curvature, and there is just too much flex to maintain a good seal.
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