Water and rot - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 01-29-2009, 09:48 PM   #29
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 38
got the butyl on, got the window back in, the butyl took up space so there was some ingenuity involved in getting the window in properly. Decided to go with screws, used 3/4" with nylon washers on the outside (to protect the aluminum widow frame from the stainless steel screws) and used the nylon lined nuts on the inside. They only stick out a little and I may be able to re-cover them simply with the wall liner (ensolite?)

The rotted wood is a whole different challenge - to get the fiberglass tabbed wood mounts off, I used a wood chisel and came at them from the side - with the right angle it gives a pretty close separation and even got under the tab and pulled it off. I was initially paranoid that I would go through the wall but it didn't happen, must be due to the side angle. Still have one support to go - am working on getting a functional template done before I pull off the old one - it sits in the back curved wall of the Scamp and I need to reproduce the curve.

Have collected info on the furnace and will be tackling that after the wood support replacement.

Thanks everyone for the assistance, it is all extremely helpful!


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Old 01-29-2009, 11:59 PM   #30
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,012
Go Diane!

Oh, you wouldn't by chance have any photos? Pretty please?

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Old 02-04-2009, 03:08 PM   #31
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Trailer: Surfside 14
Posts: 19
Aircraft rivets come in an array of types and sizes but all are bucked with a pneumatic hammer against a steel backer (buck) so are not only difficult but a big PITA to install. Extremely torque sensitive to do properly.

I like the stainless threaded fastener plan!

Also wonder if the low-expansion foam used for installing new house window units might help with sealing.

Have to say, I'm a newbie here but am relieved greatly to know there are others who, like me, take on rather tired old fibreglass trailers saying to themselves; "I can fix THAT...!"

Not everyone buys new.

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Old 02-06-2009, 03:10 PM   #32
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 38
Here is a photo series about how I took out the old and put in the new! (so far!) All I have to do now is replace the seat itself in the back and the cushion for the bunk in the front. - easy compared to the fiberglassing!

A word about fiberglassing, cut all of your pieces of cloth and have them in position (or close by), have it all ready to go because once you mix your resin/hardener you have limited time to work, like 10 minutes for it all! don't mix too much at once and if you need more than one batch, have extra brushes handy because the used ones stiffen too much to be effective.

Ready to go once I get the water pump and heater taken care of.

Attached Thumbnails
Rotted_seat_support_close_up_for_export.jpg   Bunk_Support.jpg  

Bunk_Support_Removal.jpg   Tab_Removal_2.jpg  

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Old 02-06-2009, 04:56 PM   #33
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Name: Dan
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 566
I was going to post that fiberglassed-in cleats are the way the factory fastens the seats to the wall. That's the way it is done in my trailer - a piece of wood, about 3/4 of an inch square (I've not measured - don't quote me on this figure...) and several inches long is embedded and fiberglassed into the wall with resin and glass fiber.

The pictures above show considerable difference from the way it is done in my '00 Scamp 16.

Good luck with your repair - and post more pictures about how the repair progresses!

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:05 PM   #34
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 38
I added the upright supports and fiberglassed tabs over each section - here is a picture of the new supports - I've replaced the seat and they seem very stable - haven't replaced the bunk up front yet - will do that after my vacation.
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:35 PM   #35
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,012

First of all, high fives! You totally rock in the Git'er Done department

And your photo essay is great, too.

Nice job on the re-tabbing. Oh boy, could I hear you when you said to have all the pieces cut and ready. In fact, since they are typically going to be painted, I just write right on my pieces with a black sharpie so I can keep track of them. Then I wet them all out on a big sheet of plastic right next to where I'm going to apply them. Not that you need any tips now

By your extreme time limits, I'm guessing you were working with polyester resin (large amount of resin, a few drops of catalyst, and a smell that permeates your clothing). If you venture into the realm again, you might want to try epoxy. It's got better secondary bonding characteristics (i.e. it will stick better to old work, although you still have to prep properly), a much longer open time, and does not smell (although still important to wear protective gear). It's a bit more expensive, but in the small quantities we use for these types of projects, not a big deal.

In fact, one of the reasons boatyards tend to favor Vinylester (a variation on polyester) is that the long "open" time of epoxy makes it hard to get things done when you're trying to make money, yet still not charge the customer an arm and a leg. (Vinylester is also a good resin, so it's not like they're delivering a sub-standard product.)

Oh, and cute web holding the Ensolite back.

I can't wait to see the progress as you continue to make the new egg yours

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Old 02-06-2009, 10:20 PM   #36
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 38
Yeah, I used the polyester resin stuff, kept both garage doors open and used a face mask. With the time factor (and stickiness) I found it easier to put a layer of resin, stick the cloth down, then paint over it in place. I found that I could also use the paintbrush to smooth and position the tabs as I covered them. Sharpies are a good idea, most of my pieces were the same size so I just stacked them in front of the positions.
I'll have to keep the epoxy in mind for the next time, sounds more manageable.

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