On the P.C.B. board there is a plastic green or purple fuse with the number 3 or 5 on it...the board is the same as their furnace
and water heaters...check this fuse, read power at the V+ terminal, this is located under the 4 pin connector and you should see 12v with reference to a good ground...These units also have been failing because of a bad ground connection which will nix the l.e.d too...Ground is shared and is also connected to the S1 terminal at the same flat 4 pin connector with V1 on it, do a continuity check from the spark sensor to a good established ground...If the l.e.d is dead I strongly suspect 12+ volt power interruption feeding the control board or its ground or the fuse. These boards are made in several generations and places so variations exist but are all using the same terminal designations and principles of operation...the color of the board would help me.
Be aware this board has a 3 strikes and you may be locked out safety built into its operation, if there is air in the line and it tries to strike failing 3 times it will lock out further tries until power is interrupted and reestablished (on/off)...Doing this gives you three more tries. With the l.e.d. not lit as you describe I suspect this is not the problem but...When it does try after you get ole green lit up be patient and do the previous suggestion before grass skirts rattles and incense...At least keep it in mind when you have just changed the bottles.
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The electronic ignition on my Suburban SW6DE water heater failed this weekend after working perfectly only 2 weeks before. I checked the fuse and it was OK. I have power to the switch but none at the indicator light. I pressed the reset on the 12V Hi Limit but no dice. The heater works fine on 120V electric, but I can't get the gas to light with the electronic ignition. Could the 12V Hi Limit switch be bad? Are there some test I can perform to determine if it is?