Water tank location? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-06-2009, 02:02 AM   #1
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Hi! I just got a 1972 13' Boler and am starting to renovate it. I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions but I'll go topic by topic for now! Today's topic is the water tank. I currently have a tank under one of the rear seats but I was wondering about the location of the original tank. I've done the research and know where to purchase one (Polyrama Plastics) and I know that it's supposed to be under the floor in the dinette area somewhere but I'd like to see a diagram or picture of where it's supposed to go and how it's held there if possible.

Dad and I are in the demolition phase and once that's done the cabin is coming off for a frame rebuild (too rusty to fix as far as we can tell) so I'd like to change the water tank before I put the cabin back on.

(This is also posted at Bolerama in case you think you're seeing double!)

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Old 05-06-2009, 09:24 AM   #2
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Under the rear bench is probably the original location for your tank different factories used different locations. Ours is a 72 made in Earlton and has the tank under the rear bench also. I am sure you could change it if you want. We have removed ours altogether and use a portable container hooked up to the hand pump.
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:42 PM   #3
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Mine was made in Peace River Alberta and I'm not sure it's a '72. I was just going by what the registration said.
I haven't actually looked at the water tank as it is because I've been too busy taking stuff out of it. I was thinking of relocating the tank underneath to get more storage inside so as long as it's possible. I assume there wasn't any major redesign of the frame or cabin when Boler moved the tanks, correct?
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:43 PM   #4
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With a gutted trailer, I'd be tempted to start weighing things before I put them back to be permanently installed.

Fill things up and then weigh them. Weigh the battery. Fill the water tank and weigh it (or at least weight the empty tank and calculate the weight when filled with water). Weigh the fridge. Weigh the awning. Weigh the hot water heater. Weigh the toilet. Weight the holding tank. Weigh the side dinette table. Weigh the stove. Etc.

Then I'd make a list: Weight of the stuff on the street side and weight of the stuff on the curb side. Stuff to be put on the centerline on a different list. To start, I'd put things on the side I took them off of and go from there. Move things around until you get roughly even weight side to side.
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:01 PM   #5
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Good idea but... no fridge, awning, hot water heater, porta-potty or holding tank. My Dad figured the water tank was under the bench to counter balance the weight of the kitchen originally but I'd really like that space for storage instead. I have just the fresh water tank and a stove I"m not keeping. See attached pic for why!
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I'll be getting some of that other stuff along the way as I rebuild and decide what I want in it. I will start a list with the few things I have and add as I go. Would I need to keep track of behind the axel and on the tongue? I'd like to add a storage box on the bumper and a battery and possibly a second propane tank to the front.
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:23 PM   #6
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[quote]See attached pic for why!
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Attachment 19974


Whoa! Nice stove! Are you sure that trailer's not designated a national landmark?!

"Would I need to keep track of behind the axel and on the tongue?"

Well, I would, but then I'm a geeky engineer. I'd be ratioing out the weights by their distance from the axle centerline to the point of the load to determine the lever arm!

I have no experience with a ground up restoration where someone's considering radically changing the interior layout. I think we're rapidly approaching a point where generalizations on my part are dangerous. Besides, I do tend to overdo things anyhow. And Castle Pretenious isn't exactly a model for restrained camping.
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:45 PM   #7
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Whoa! Nice stove! Are you sure that trailer's not designated a national landmark?!
It very well may have been! The guy I got it from was a hunter and used it instead of a furnace and stove, which he removed. My intention getting into a Boler wasn't a ground up reno/restoration but since the only thing original was the rusted out frame, closet and back dining area it looks like that's where I'm headed. We saw on the drive home that the frame under the stove was broken (wonder why? haha) so my Dad figured take everything out, take it off the frame to rebuild that, and put it back together! Sounded simple.
Now that I know a water tank can go under the floor I just need to figure out how. Since I'm assuming that the under the bench install I currently have is original and there wasn't ever one under the floor, I must also assume that there isn't the necessary hardware to put one there. I hope to have it off the frame by the weekend if the rain stops so I guess I'll take a look. Any ideas?
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:06 PM   #8
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In my old 13ft Boler it was under the floor between the frame, outside of trailer.The area was under the dinete.
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:11 PM   #9
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I'd think mounting the water tank with a couple of modified gas tank straps might work well. You could pad the strap with some rubber (or teflon like used between leaf springs) to keep the plastic from getting chaffed.

Here's a link for what I'm talking about: Gas Tank Straps



Or you could call Scamp and see if the gray water tank they sell (which is usually mounted right where you want your freshwater tank), is usable for drinking water. If so, get the tank and mounting hardware from them (??)
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
I'd think mounting the water tank with a couple of modified gas tank straps might work well. You could pad the strap with some rubber (or teflon like used between leaf springs) to keep the plastic from getting chaffed.
Sounds familiar, Donna.
On my Fiber Stream, the holding tanks are strapped up to the frame under the floor with Banding Straps. They welded bolts to the frame (Threads pointing down) and punched holes in the straps and attached it with lock washers and nuts. They used carpet scraps to pad the edges of the tank where the straps would chafe.
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:15 PM   #11
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They used carpet scraps to pad the edges of the tank where the straps would chafe.
I think I'll have to go with foam or rubber. I live out here off the "wet" coast in Victoria, BC and since the carpet inside was rotted, I think under would be worse. Are the tanks protected from the road and rocks in any way?
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Old 05-07-2009, 01:42 PM   #12
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I think I'll have to go with foam or rubber. I live out here off the "wet" coast in Victoria, BC and since the carpet inside was rotted, I think under would be worse. Are the tanks protected from the road and rocks in any way?
On my previous 13FT Boler there was a thin piece of plywood acting as a guard.It covered the water tank and protected it from road debre
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:24 PM   #13
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On my previous 13FT Boler there was a thin piece of plywood acting as a guard.It covered the water tank and protected it from road debre
I was thinking of that as well. Was yours held on by straps or was a frame built?
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:39 PM   #14
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Are the tanks protected from the road and rocks in any way?
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