Weekend trip cancelled. Rusted hitch. How to fix? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-20-2013, 07:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I didn't even know there was such a thing as a coupler attached to the bottom of a tongue.
I agree with Francesca. That beveled end of your tongue sloping down looks unique! Usually the tongue's frame rails just come straight together and the coupler is welded to the top and to the sides increasing strength. By welding yours to the bottom, the hitch height was changed at the expense of the strength that would have been in the vertical welds on the coupler.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:48 PM   #16
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Frederick, not on my 1988 Scamp! As I mentioned in a previous post, it came from the factory that way.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:07 PM   #17
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Bryan mines the same - I am assuming yours had the 1 7/8" coupler on it? If so give Scamp a call as they have changed them to 2" couplers and have upgraded a number of peoples older trailers as well for them. They should be able to tell you how to go about doing it and what to use to do it.

I too would like to see how you get it done! As its on my list of things to do one day in the not to distant future.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:20 PM   #18
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There's a big group (994 members) very active on Facebook: The Boler and a similar group on Facebook, I own a Boler Bolerama is just about dead because of Facebook...
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:00 PM   #19
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Puch Maxi?

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Originally Posted by Bryan L. View Post
Ok, I finally cut this off today. After I cut a few inches off the back of each side, the coupler just fell to the floor. I am left with a sheet of metal on the bottom where the two frame rails come together that is welded on the inside of each rail and seems pretty stuck on there. Can I just weld a new plate to the bottom of this plate? Getting inside and grinding away the inner welds from underneath does not look fun at all. I would think that this is almost a stronger solution than what was there before as the weight of the frame would distributed on to that plate and then more evenly distributed to the coupler that I will weld on to the bottom. Thoughts, opinions? Thanks.

Rgrugg, that is not my tow vehicle! Just a fun hobby of mine!
Sorry to go off topic, but is that a Puch Maxi in your avatar pic? I'm a bit of a moped enthusiast, a horder if you ask my wife! Do you take it camping?

-Mike
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:07 PM   #20
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I think I would start with a piece of 1/4" wall square tubing, either 2", or 2 1/2", with a coupler to fit, and adapt that to the tongue, reinforced with plate, or gussets. The square tube could be cut into the end of the tongue and extended back as far as possible and reinforced as necessary. One of those things I would have to see to make a plan. One time I replaced a similar coupler with one that was wider and had to machine a couple steel wedges to make it fit.
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:11 PM   #21
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Sorry to go off topic, but is that a Puch Maxi in your avatar pic? I'm a bit of a moped enthusiast, a horder if you ask my wife! Do you take it camping?

-Mike
Sure is, a Maxi N. at one time I had 34 mopeds in my garage. I've slimmed down considerably to get the Scamp in the garage! I still read Moped Army daily but don't post hardly at all. I go by brystheguy. That E50 rebuild article in the wiki - that's my lasting contribution to Moped Army! A lot has changed since that article was written. I have taken my moped with me before. I have a rack I can put on the back of the trailer but I've always just put it in the van instead.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:14 AM   #22
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scamp is reasonable on prices. It might be just as easy to get one from them. yes, weld it on the bottom of that plate, it's fine. I would drill a few holes in the top of your new coupler, and rosette weld it to the plate of the old one, if it was me. I would also get a piece of square tubing the width of the coupler, and weld the square tubing on behind it, to hold the sides of the coupler together, since it's basically on the wrong side of the tongue.

I go overboard, but my shtuff doesn't break, either.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:36 AM   #23
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I just called Scamp and they don't sell the smaller coupler. Mine is only about six inches wide at the rear and all the ones I see online are about a foot across. He recommended that I weld a bigger new one on to the top like the newer ones have. However, mine has that large sloping section on the front, and there will be no welding on to that, that's for sure.

I'll have to see if I can dig up any pictures of the more modern arrangement. I'm actually more interested in what it looks like underneath than on top though. (starts laborious search)
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:01 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bryan L. View Post
I just called Scamp and they don't sell the smaller coupler. Mine is only about six inches wide at the rear and all the ones I see online are about a foot across. He recommended that I weld a bigger new one on to the top like the newer ones have. However, mine has that large sloping section on the front, and there will be no welding on to that, that's for sure.
I seem to recall that Norm? mentioned he had Scamp change the coupler to a 2" on the same vintage trailer (same sloping tongue) ..... perhaps if you PM him he could post a photo of how they actually did it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:26 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan L. View Post
I just called Scamp and they don't sell the smaller coupler. Mine is only about six inches wide at the rear and all the ones I see online are about a foot across. He recommended that I weld a bigger new one on to the top like the newer ones have. However, mine has that large sloping section on the front, and there will be no welding on to that, that's for sure.
It's unclear to me why this won't work if Scamp recommended it- are you sure that it's not possible?

Maybe they know of/can point you to a coupler that would fit that sloping configuration you've got...

Francesca
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #26
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Fransecesca, I'm thinking that the frame that they are welding to the new coupler extends pretty far forward in to the new coupler plate. I'm not sure how much frame rail you need inside the new coupler to ensure strength. my concern is that if I cut the frame rail back to where the sloped angle starts that I won't have enough length or "meat" left on the frame rail to overlap the coupler plate and provide a good weld. Make any sense?

I will try and contact Norm and see if I can get some pictures. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:35 PM   #27
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In that case, I say cut a square hole in the front, slide a piece of square tubing in to the first frame crossmember, and burn it in. Then you can just bolt a new coupler to it.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:25 PM   #28
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Fransecesca, I'm thinking that the frame that they are welding to the new coupler extends pretty far forward in to the new coupler plate. I'm not sure how much frame rail you need inside the new coupler to ensure strength. my concern is that if I cut the frame rail back to where the sloped angle starts that I won't have enough length or "meat" left on the frame rail to overlap the coupler plate and provide a good weld. Make any sense?

I will try and contact Norm and see if I can get some pictures. Thanks for the advice.
Yeah, it makes sense...but I'm hoping that when you talk to Scamp again they're gonna tell you they've got some custom no-cut-on-the-tongue coupler that will weld right on!

I get all nervous when folks have to start carving away at existing weight-bearing stuff. Just ask my welding fool of a husband if you don't believe me.

Keep us posted!

Francesca
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